Welp droped the motor into the truck yesterday. I grabbed the rest of the little things I needed today at the parts store put them all on.
Turned the key and it took off like no tomorrow purred like a kitten
I set the idle up to 2500 rpm and set the timer on my watch for 30 mins.
Walked into the house to use the washroom and I heard the engine loosing RPM so i ran out the door and the smoke was coming out of the valve breather and the distributor hole like no tomorrow. I shut it down and now everything is tight enough that the starter wont role it over.
Is the motor cooked? Can it be fixed.... I dont understand my luck latly.... Id give the shirt off of my back to anyone and I keep getting the ****ty end of the stick....
I dont know what the bearing clearance is It was a stock bottem end. I changed the cam shaft and had the heads ported and polished everything else was stock. and for the leaving it running on its own... mother nature called and hit extension #2 so i figured it would be allright on its own for 5 mins oh well guess im going to have to tear it out again and grab the scalpull
I set the idle up to 2500 rpm and set the timer on my watch for 30 mins.
Walked into the house to use the washroom and I heard the engine loosing RPM so i ran out the door and the smoke was coming out of the valve breather and the distributor hole like no tomorrow. I shut it down and now everything is tight enough that the starter wont role it over.
whats wrong with doing that I had to go to the bathroom.... I dont build engine everyday so i didnt know i had to baby sit it so.... if you sitting there thinking that Im a ******* the **** you and your glass eye bud. I needed help thats why i posted it. Everything was running fine untill I went in the house. I dont need your sacasmic bull**** I needed an oppinion on what I was getting into.....
Will do. He didnt push me over the edge I just have no patients for no it alls that think that everyone should know everthing about motors... like i said im on here trying to get help not get laughed in my face :S thanks for the replies :thumbup:
No worries- there ain't a man here- if he's honest- that hasn't **** the bed.
Was it pushing any water out of the radiator? No work at all done on the bottom end, and this had been a running engine?
When you say smoke was coming from the distributor hole, where exactly are you talking about, there shouldn't have been any way for smoke to get past the distributor sitting in the intake, at least not much.
Being too tight to turn over w/the starter is troubling, though. If this is the same engine that had the bad timing set, was the fragged plastic gear meterial ever removerd from the pump pick up? If not, it was prolly starved for oil...
Before you perform the autopsy..recheck the coolant and oil levels and smell them for burnt.Pull all 8 plugs...inspect for coolant in the cylinders and try manually rotating the engine by hand.Sure sounds like it may need to opened up..but the more you know before tear down will aid in your diagnosis.Take your time and record as much info as you can.If it rolls over without the plugs..try the starter again.It may blow coolant out the holes perhaps..but the oil pressure gage can be observed at the same time.Good Luck.
whats wrong with doing that I had to go to the bathroom.... I dont build engine everyday so i didnt know i had to baby sit it so.... if you sitting there thinking that Im a ******* the **** you and your glass eye bud. I needed help thats why i posted it. Everything was running fine untill I went in the house. I dont need your sacasmic bull**** I needed an oppinion on what I was getting into.....
Yes I have made mistakes, but come on, who starts a motor, sets it on 2500 rpm and then walks away? Its your fault the motors smoked. Did you even put oil and water in it?
Welll tore it down and all the collant was fine. I did clean out the oil pump with the chunks of gears but the pump isnt working at all. I primed the motor with the valve covers on so i didnt realize it wasnt getting oil. So I tore it down today and it toasted the front main barried and #1 and #2 bearing the rest is good.
I know the crankshaft needs to be reground going to do that tomorrow.
Now the mains are fine no inperfections in them. Should I have it line honned anyways?
I'm trying to be sure I understand what happened you said there are chunks (of gear teeth) inside the oil pump? Is this the original pump or a new one?
What about the fit of the shafts and clearance of the pump housing to the rear counterweight. I don't know what your engine is in detail bits and pieces that you used but there are places where with mixing and matching different parts can get you into trouble here. Examples include:
1) Some crankshafts will not clear certain aftermarket oil pumps. The pump housings tend to be thicker than production units, they will suffer interference with the rear counterweight. While you may have clearance when rotating the crank during assembly, the dynamics of actually running will result in collisions that move the pump against its retention bolt if not bust the pump housing.
2) There have been many aftermarket pumps where the cover jams the gears, the pump will turn if enough force is applied but this peels off a lot of metal from the cover which then circulates thorugh the gears; you can imagine what that does.
3) The use of a big block pump, these are sometimes substituted for the SBC pump when you order a high volume pump. Identified by 5 cover bolts instead of 4, these pumps have a longer input shaft which when used in an SBC requries a special shorter length intermediate shaft that is unique to this set up. If you have this type of pump and use it with a standard intermediate shaft when the distributor is installed it will jam the pump shaft and driving gear into the cover with results we've previously explored. This kind of caught my eye when I read that you saw smoke from the breathers and from the distributor base which made me think the distributor was not bolted tightly because the shaft length stack up was preventing it from sitting on its gasket with the intake.
Because of the amazing plethora of parts made everywhere on the planet for the SBC, you as a builder need to pay extremely high levels of attention to the integration of these parts. Lots of people get stung by this including the mass rebuilders.
Welll tore it down and all the collant was fine. I did clean out the oil pump with the chunks of gears but the pump isnt working at all. I primed the motor with the valve covers on so i didnt realize it wasnt getting oil. So I tore it down today and it toasted the front main barried and #1 and #2 bearing the rest is good.
I know the crankshaft needs to be reground going to do that tomorrow.
Now the mains are fine no inperfections in them. Should I have it line honned anyways?
Sorry I couldn't resist.
How ever, you are going to need 2 rods and if the cap for the main that is smoked is blue, or maybe all of them, you will need a new block.
I'm sorry for the earlier post, I really didn't realize you were serious. Sorry for your loss.
Richie
yes theres a oil pressure gague and it had oil pressure when first started then i set the idle up for break in and the oil pump failed. yes i know i shouldnt have left it alone but im just getting over the flu and when ya gotta go you gotta go
Oh boy! Are you sure that the pump is no longer working? Did you use an aftermarket oil pump drive shaft with the metal sleeve collar, or an original nylon sleeve collar type pump drive shaft?
If you used a nylon sleeved collar type drive shaft and anything happened to increase the resistance to the pump, the collar may have failed. Particularly when reusing older shafts, if the pump saw increased pressure, or a small piece of the aforementioned timing gear got into the pump, well, that could bring about real havoc.
Enough of this speculation, are you sure the shaft is intact and the oil PUMP has failed?
yes it was intact... well it isnt anymore its a bare block im taking it to the machine shop tomorrow having it hot tanked and whatever else it needs. Im going to have the guy look at it an tell me what needs to happen. Ive never had a machined engine so its a blank to me when it comes to that stuff so hes going to tell me step by step whats going to happen
As long as the main bearing didn't spin or turn colors do to heat build up you should be fine. I say should be.The # 1 rod big end will need to be re-sized and the block should be tore apart and all oil passages cleaned real good so there's no metal left in oil passages.
well i took it to the machine shop and it ended up being a little more expensive than i thought it maybe. So I took the 350 4 bolt i had and put the cam and timing set on it swaped out the heads and oil pump (just to make sure) and ill be firing it up tomorrow
hey this maybe a stupid question but did you use a brand name break in oil with zinc,what happens is during the breakin periob of the cam without that oil the lifters eat the lobes off the cam just a recomendation but on your next break in run use a good quality break in oil wth zinc, dont go buy cheap oil and an add an additive of zinc to it its not the same !!! joe gibbs racing oil or break in oil has never given me a prob!!!! the reason y it was so tight is heat so your prolly gonna have to rebearing the whole motor and maybe new cam n lifters!!! I build motors for a living and the best thimg you camdo is check,double check& sometimes triple check all your clearences plastigauge is actually your best friend and yes allways prime your motor that way you know the pump is wing and with a high speed drill and the valve covers off as long as every rocker gets oil your good and at the very minimum 10psi per 1000 rpms this is just a number you cam go off of !!!!! HEY THE BEST LUCK IT WILL WORK OUT FOR YOU!!!! WOULD LOVE TO HEAR ABOUT HOW THE AUTOPSY COMES OUT!!!!!!
I had 406 sbc do the same exact thing, only I was sitting in the car watching the oil pressure when I first started the motor. All of the sudden the oil pressure started to drop slowly to the point where there was no oil pressure. It turned out the intermediate shaft that drives the oil pump and distributor was jammed and lifted off the pump. I replaced it with a tapered intermediate shaft and problem was resolved.
Also you should put a fan in front of the radiator if its going to be running at that rpm for that long. Squirrel cage fan on a kitchen chair works great.
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