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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 08-12-2013, 05:22 PM
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Sounds good.Need to know actual pin hgt,volume of dish,headgasket thickness,& if any way,the actual deck hgt. Since you are using a new crank & pistons,the deck hgt could slightly change,but,you can still have an indicator of wether the block has been cut before.I seriously doubt it based on your description of the previous rebuild.Now is the time to make any adjustments needed.

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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 08-12-2013, 05:27 PM
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Also'you said you could swap the cam,but,are you committed to having to swap with another XE cam?There are prolly better alternatives.The XE's are good cams,but, not real polite on the valvetrain.
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Old 08-12-2013, 05:35 PM
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400 small block

Check out these pistons & rings from Keith Black. If you are boring the block .030 these pistons will work fine. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ue...-030/overview/ The compression height is 1.561 also. If your stock heads are 76cc and the block has not been milled you will have 9.15:1 compression ratio which is right in the ball park for iron heads. I would go with the XE262H camshaft too. The rpm range of the cam is good for the 400 cid engine. As with any upgraded camshaft Comp Cams recommends springs,retainers, and locks.
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old 08-12-2013, 06:20 PM
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The XE262H seems to be a good fit here.My thinkin is that with it's earlier IVC,110*LSA,& somewhat shorter duration as compared to the XE268 & XE274,will allow better cylinder psi with the dish pistons,large chamber heads, & lower SCR while still maintaining a good DCR.My thinkin gets me into trouble sometimes,so,if I'm thinking wrong,somebody tell me !!! LOL.
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Old 08-12-2013, 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by jokerZ71 View Post
The XE262H seems to be a good fit here.My thinkin is that with it's earlier IVC,110*LSA,& somewhat shorter duration as compared to the XE268 & XE274,will allow better cylinder psi with the dish pistons,large chamber heads, & lower SCR while still maintaining a good DCR.My thinkin gets me into trouble sometimes,so,if I'm thinking wrong,somebody tell me !!! LOL.
I am liking the 262 also. I don't need a race car and I think this will give me a little power and not too bad on the mpg. I also looked at the link for the ex250h but I like the ex262h for this build. But after I get my pistons and final numbers I will get back with you and the other engine guru's. thanks
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 08-12-2013, 10:07 PM
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peppy enough

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Originally Posted by vinniekq2 View Post
this is what I built for a friend years ago
stock 400 long block
sig erson TQ-20 cam (much better available now)
street dominator intake
625 carter
1 5/8 headers
with 2.73 gears the 86 Monte Carlo ran 14.1s
with dual exhaust hooked up and non posi diff.
did you read this post?
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Old 08-13-2013, 09:15 AM
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did you read this post?
Actually I did read this post but I looked into it more and I originally thought it said 3.73 gears ,but I see it did it with 2.73. I also have never heard of that cam but I see it is in line with what everyone is telling me. Has 214 duration at .50 and 517 lift.(thought that was a little high lift)but it worked in the one you built. THe 14.1 is awesome for my goal. I wanted to keep my ex274h cam but after all of the expert opinions I can see I need something closer to what you did here.Thanks buddy
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Old 08-13-2013, 10:50 AM
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go with a 268 CompCam and a 650 cfm carb . it will run great and you wont be on the side of the road with your hood up trying to figure out whats wrong with your hotrod.
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 09-04-2013, 02:14 PM
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Well guys it seems I won't catch a break. Should have bought a crate engine. My builder changes what I need every time I call,he is telling me to not go with stock rods due to everything in short block is new now. I am going to order pistons and rods tommorrow. I am using advise I got on here and going with the flat top pistons and parts house says i may as well use 6" rods. I still have the xe274 cam. As far as stock heads,since I am no longer on the cheap I may just stop him at short block a buy new heads. Any thoughts as I am frustrated and broke. Lol
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Old 09-04-2013, 04:15 PM
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Hey Tony.New rods couldn't hurt anything.I know it's more money tho.Your rods can be inspected for cracks,etc & resized,but,there is still the fatigue factor & added power.So,you probably can't go wrong with a new set.As far as using the 6" rod,personally,I don't care too much for them.I would rather use the 5.7.For the power goals of your build,1 or the other is not gonna matter.My only reason for not liking the 6" is due to oil ring being partially located in the wrist pin hole.Ppl use them all the time tho w/o problems.There's nothin wrong with them.It's just a personal preference.I think you will find more piston options with the 5.7 rod.Either way you choose to go,you will need to refigure the math for CR,pin hgt,etc & proper quench.There will be some slight differences with either rod since all of your previous figures were based on the 5.565" rod.For the 6" rod you'll want a piston with a 1.125" pin hgt.For the 5.7" rod you can use the 1.425",or,1.433".I will say tho that as in heads,rods are not the place to cheap out.I would rather have a good set of factory rods vs some of the cheap offshore rods.IMO,a good set of the 5.7" PM rods would be better than a set of cheapies.

Last edited by jokerZ71; 09-04-2013 at 04:22 PM.
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  #56 (permalink)  
Old 09-04-2013, 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by jokerZ71 View Post
Hey Tony.New rods couldn't hurt anything.I know it's more money tho.Your rods can be inspected for cracks,etc & resized,but,there is still the fatigue factor & added power.So,you probably can't go wrong with a new set.As far as using the 6" rod,personally,I don't care too much for them.I would rather use the 5.7.For the power goals of your build,1 or the other is not gonna matter.My only reason for not liking the 6" is due to oil ring being partially located in the wrist pin hole.Ppl use them all the time tho w/o problems.There's nothin wrong with them.It's just a personal preference.I think you will find more piston options with the 5.7 rod.Either way you choose to go,you will need to refigure the math for CR,pin hgt,etc & proper quench.There will be some slight differences with either rod since all of your previous figures were based on the 5.565" rod.For the 6" rod you'll want a piston with a 1.125" pin hgt.For the 5.7" rod you can use the 1.425",or,1.433".I will say tho that as in heads,rods are not the place to cheap out.I would rather have a good set of factory rods vs some of the cheap offshore rods.IMO,a good set of the 5.7" PM rods would be better than a set of cheapies.
Well after last post ,the parts house gave me a price of $863 for rods and pistons w/rings. Now this build has reached levels I don't want to go. My builder is trying to work something out but at this point I am toying with returning all purchased parts and purchasing a 350 gm crate engine. I will keep y'all posted.
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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 09-04-2013, 10:42 PM
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there are a lot of people that for some unknown reason really like the 400 GM block,,,,
what do you want for performance? Then build an engine to meet your requirements,,,simple.
Fbird has a formula for a 370 hp 305,,,
420 HP from a 355,,,
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Old 09-05-2013, 06:40 PM
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You can get an entire rotating assembly for that.They are probably quoting better parts tho.I think you can do a lot better than that price for rods,pistons,rings.Especially for the performance level your building to.I would ck around some more.That's probably forged pistons,& rods for a higher HP level that will be overkill in your build.
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Old 09-05-2013, 06:43 PM
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A set of KB pistons & Scat rods can be had for a hair over $500.
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Old 10-02-2013, 09:41 AM
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I want to update you guys..as I always said, I wanted to build this engine the cheapest power, as I just need a daily driver but my "race engine" builder was too picky and wanted to replace everything making it way out of my budget, so he rebuilt my heads, for the trade we worked out, and I picked up my engine and all the parts.I took it to another highly recommended builder in my area and the first thing he said was return that new crank, your stock one will work fine(he will machine it).He micro the cylinders and recommended bore to 30 over,he said stock rods are fine and agreed, with my 274 cam, we will go with flat top pistons.He checked everything and he says my compression ratio is 9.9. He is doing all machine work and building it to a long block for $740.00 and I have $705.00 in parts. I have a edelbrock perfomer rpm intake and will have to get a new carb. but overall I think this will work for a peppy daily driver I am looking for.What do you guys think?

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