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Old 10-30-2008, 02:48 AM
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400 Small Block Crank

Hi there, i new to the forums, just a young guy who just graduated high school, and i love cars and motors, but being young i got some questions. im workin on a 400 small block w/ a 2bolt main. its all stock. and my question is im puttin new heads and a cam in it, and all running a nitrous system and im wondering will the stock crank hold up to all that power, im lookin at around 650hp give or take. or even better if someone could let me know how much in general are those cranks rated for. Oh and if anyone is wondering its going in an 88 camaro with 700R4 tranny.

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Old 10-30-2008, 03:04 AM
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not for long....
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Old 10-30-2008, 08:42 AM
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well what would be a good way of strengthing that bottom end up? will the main bearing caps hold up? What all should be done to hold up to all that power?
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Old 10-30-2008, 09:54 AM
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youll have to fill the block up to the freeze plug holes with block filler.
(helps the lower end)
good forged crank (not eagle or scat chinese junk)
crank girdle and good main caps a must.
longer rods
list goes on and on
takes alot of bucks to go fast ya know
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Old 10-30-2008, 11:55 AM
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First off, the GM block may not take the abuse. You may need to begin with an aftermarket block, forged steel crank, forged steel rods and forged pistons. You should be able to put it together for around $12,000 to $15,000 if you shop around for the parts.

Last edited by techinspector1; 10-30-2008 at 12:41 PM.
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Old 10-30-2008, 12:48 PM
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Well i talked to a really popular hot rodding shop in minnesota, which is were i live. and he said that the block would be fine, but i have to stregthen the lower end, the stock gm block will hold up. so...im not sure about the whole buyin a new block thing. as far as heads and a cam and all that, i bought this kit

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku

i already have a really nice performer intake, that will be port matched to the heads by a machinest, so im pretty sure i got the top end figured out, but feel free to let me know of any thing else
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Old 10-30-2008, 01:00 PM
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No disrespect to you Alex but your age is showing, "Techinspector" is giving you a real life idea on what it would cost to build a REAL 650 hp engine. Now lets try to get reasonable, if you want to build a nice 400 sbc there are a ton of combinations that would give you lets say 400-450 hp with a GM crank, block, reworked 5.7 rods, a GOOD set of heads and induction system. ....and that of course is depending on your budget.

If you want to add a 250 hp shot of NOS then the cost go's up rapidly because now you will have to buy aftermarket heavy duty parts that will live under the NOS pressure. Expert engine builder Joe Sherman built some extreme HP 406 chevys with a stock block and crank but those were massaged to the hilt with no expense spared. HP cost money, be realistic with your expectations, buy the best parts you can afford and build a nice engine that will live and be fun to drive on the street.
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Old 10-30-2008, 01:47 PM
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Welcome to the community, I think you should take a step back and think to yourself "What am I really going to be doing with this motor?" 650hp sounds good until it's raining or snowing and you have to drive to work and you have to be there soon A car like this with a motor like that will be a little more of a challenge to drive. I think you would be plenty happy building your 400 to some warmed over specs NOT extreme! 400-450HP is a lot more achievable with a stock block and not a huge bankroll. I personally was in the same position and decided that sometimes lots of HP would be cool but a car you can drive and still keeps the blue lights away is even better Don't get discouraged on you build but I think you should definitely look into all aspects of your build before you start throwing money at parts.
327NUT and Techinspector1 are right on with what they are telling you. Big motors require big budgets 12,000-15,000 isn't a far off estimate! Don 't forget that 700r4 is going to need some work as well to deal with 400+Tq numbers. building a 650HP motor and building one that will stay together are two different ballparks! I'm not saying you can't do it, but to do it on the budget of a soon to be college bound young adult, probably not.

My build so far has been on a minimal budget and I think I will be happy with the numbers. check out my project journal.

I found this build sheet on the internet awhile back, I posted it to give you some ideas for a streetable motor. This build was for a 88 Iroc I believe,I think the price would be a bit different now a days

Do it right or Do it twice
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Last edited by TorkMonster400; 10-30-2008 at 02:09 PM.
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Old 10-30-2008, 10:17 PM
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well that is all good info guys, thanks. and to let you know, im not planing on just getting this done in a hurry, if it requires alot of money then so be it. i have the car for it, 88 camaro, not my daily driver, i drive a 88 chevy 1/2 ton every day that suits my needs for gettin around. the car is ment for the track, but still to be able to drive on the road. the tranny has already been reworked to with stand the hp, professionally rebuilt buy a close older friend. so thats why i have carried on to the block. i already have the kit i showed above with the heads and all that. so basically the top end is there lets just say, but the bottom isnt, ya it may sound like a frankinstein but kinda what im going for. im just lookin into the lower end and figured you guys on the forum may be able to assist me, cuz like i said yes being a younger guy, i dont know alot. i know alot about top ends and power adders and all that, trust me, a kawasaki ninja 250 that has a 50 shot of nos that does 138. im pretty sure i got a little more than the basics on that. bottom end is were i lack...so, im just askin what all needs to be done to the bottom end, keep in mind, not out to finish in a hurry, and money...well if it takes me a while then so be it. if ya all could tell me or point me in a good direction as to what parts i need that would be really cool.
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Old 10-30-2008, 10:41 PM
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As for your bottom end, aside from having the block drilled for splayed bolts with a billit cap. You could get an ARP stud set for a little more insurance just don't try to spin the heck out of it and it would be fine to 6000 as far as I'm told, no Proof yet


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Old 10-31-2008, 06:20 AM
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That hp range you really need a dart block stock block won't take it long.As Far as the stock crank I would use it because I have had great luck with them never broke one even at the 625 horse level.BUT the key word here was luck in my perfect world I would use callies, crower etc.Never would use Eagle or Scat in my opinion they are marginal even as paper weights much less to be using them in an engine.Saw far to many of them with snouts broke off, cranks broke in half, personally never saw this with a stock crank .Joke around our dirt track was if we had all the money we spent replacing tires when a eagle or scat came apart and we ran over it we would be millionaires. These engines were pretty mild builds to only about 550 to 625 hp range and most 355's turned less than 8200 rpm.7500 in a 406.
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Old 11-01-2008, 01:24 PM
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Well i was talkin to a older guy, that worked for GM for 40 years back in the 70 and 80s and so on, and he was tellin me what i really got to worry about is the rpms, he was saying keep it under 5000 or not to much over, cuz thats when the 400s start breaking. he told me to make sure to put a rev limiter on it. and not to bring it past 5000 or so. this guy builds motors all the time, has a 400 block and low end already done, and said he would trade me blocks, if i gave him alittle money with my block. and his block is already bored to a 406. is this a good idea?? sounds like it would save me time and money. i dont know alot about blocks, but i know i got a 010 block from 1972 with the time clock stamps on it. whats your guys input on this trade??
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Old 11-01-2008, 02:06 PM
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010's were a 350 block.
if we're talking about the casting # on the lr of the block.
might want to check Mortec.com for #'s
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Old 11-01-2008, 11:16 PM
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No its a 400 block. its like a 350 block cuz it has the same amount of freeze plugs, but a bigger harmonic balancer gives it away. its a 400 tho, the 010 or 020 blocks are look alike 350 or even could be 350s, but all the 010 or 020 means is it has added tin or nickle to give the block a stronger casting.
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Old 11-01-2008, 11:40 PM
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What casting number block do you have? Some prefer the 509 or the 817 400's. Everyone has opinons though
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