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Old 08-28-2012, 04:07 PM
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406ci motor specs.

406ci, 4.155 x 3.75
9.8:1
factory 400 block
Scat cast steel crank
Oliver 6 inch rods
SRP 21cc dish pistons
1/16, 1/16, 3/16 rings
Moroso 7 qt. oil pan
Mellings oil pump
Comp Cams solid flat tappet
236/242 @ .050,0.501/0.510-inch
Intake Centerline 106
1.6:1 full roller tip stainless rockers
Factory iron 041X heads w/hardened seats Gasket Matched and ported a little
2.02/1.60 inch valves
Professional Products Crosswinds Intake
Holley 3310-1 780 cfm Carburetor
HEI Davis Unified Ignition Street/Strip
1 3/4 headers w/3 inch exhaust

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Old 08-28-2012, 04:57 PM
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OK, we see some motor specs. What next??
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Old 08-28-2012, 10:53 PM
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put it in a car and lets see what she does?
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Old 08-29-2012, 06:02 AM
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Working on that right now...
This Motor is going into a 71 C-10 truck
Probably not the best thing to put it in, but it's what I have...?
Any body have any good ideas about getting this thing to hook up?
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Old 08-29-2012, 06:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by begrab63 View Post
Working on that right now...
This Motor is going into a 71 C-10 truck
Probably not the best thing to put it in, but it's what I have...?
Any body have any good ideas about getting this thing to hook up?
That's a pretty mild engine, it should do just fine in a truck with a mild stall.

To get it to hook the most important thing will be tires, then springs and shocks.
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Old 08-29-2012, 10:53 AM
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I guess we will see, still about a month or so out?
It has 4" lowering coil springs in the rear, and is a 12 bolt 3.08 posi?
May have to upgrade the shocks, they came with the lowering kit.
Tires are 295/50R15?
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Old 08-29-2012, 11:20 AM
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The 3.08 gear won't help but those tires will be the biggest problem. A 50 series tire has to have a very stiff side wall to keep it from collapsing which translates into a very hard tire. You can use them but don't expect any traction....specially in a P/U. That 406 (properly built) will put out gobs of torque right from the git go, find some sticky street/strip tires and a 3.73 gear set and you'll be much better off.
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Old 08-29-2012, 11:28 AM
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I'd swap the rear tires to a drag radial. I'm using M&H drag radials in the back of my gasser, and even without a run through the water box, they still hook up better than almost anything I've ever run.
You might also think of a way to add some hidden weight in the rear bumper to help plant the tires. A better rear gear ratio will help too.
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Old 08-29-2012, 01:26 PM
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Thanks for the input! I will look into changing my set up for sure!
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Old 08-29-2012, 04:55 PM
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Moving the tank back between the frame rails, and battery in the bed?
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Old 08-30-2012, 09:58 AM
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The cam is pretty small for a 400. You can tighten up the valve lash to good effect
to get more effective "cam"

.004" to .006" (set cold) tighter than the cam card hot lash spec

Get a real deal 10" high stall and 4.10's and some short sticky 8.5x26" ET streets.

Does your truck have the leaf spring rear suspension or the swing arm rear suspension?
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Old 08-30-2012, 10:50 AM
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The truck has a coil spring rear end with control arms.
I am going to get a stall converter for it.
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Old 08-31-2012, 11:47 AM
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AirLift air bags (drag bags) will increase traction when you need it.
Lowering the truck changes the geometry of the rear suspension making it squat on acceleration.
The air bags correct this as well as balancing the left right tire traction bias
making your limit slip posi work really really good.
Now you have adjustable ride height and adjustable traction (rear axle geometry) by adjusting the air in the air bags.
Simple and effective.
The stock OEM suspension bushings can be upgraded with polyeurathane bushings.
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