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Old 12-04-2008, 08:19 PM
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406sbc vortec heads cam?

Hi i have a 406 that i am gonna be repacing my hydrolocked 350 with thats in my lifted chevy k10 and i was wonder what type of cam should i look into for it, it would be a 406 with ported and polished vortec heads and edelbrock proformer intake. I am looking into the lumpiest cam i can get, it would have a stock stall converter btw. the power range would be low but wouldnt mind if the cam changes it for the sound (406 would be torque monster) i was told to look at the extreme 4x4 cams but not sure what one or what cam would work with the vortec heads because i heard you dont wanna go over .05 lift so i was hoping for your guys opinion

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Old 12-04-2008, 08:45 PM
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I would shoot for a intake duration around 225, exhaust around 230, 108 LSA, 106 ICL, and .525 lift. That is if you modify the Vortec's to handle it- .450 lift if you don't modify them. With a port and polish job I imagine the heads were modified to handle the lift though- otherwise the P/P job is virtually useless.

Its not the lumpiest cam, but its about the lumpiest you want on a stock stall.

This one looks to be a great cam for your application.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...4&autoview=sku

I'd run 1.6 or 1.7 rockers on it- but again only if you modified the heads to handle it.
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Old 12-04-2008, 08:48 PM
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i was looking at cam that i wouldnt have to modify the heads cause i did the port and polish on it and it has all the stock valve springs and rockers so do you have any ideas on that? the only modifying i wanna do on it is get the steam holes drilled and really thats all cause im on a tight budget and wanna get my truck goign for the winter
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Old 12-04-2008, 08:57 PM
How fast is fast enough?
 
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You need to modify it for that cam. At the very least run new springs with a little ground off the borrotm of the retainers- that'll get you to a safe .480 so you can run that cam with the stock rockers. Doing it right and fixing the seats guides and seals to allow .525 lift with some good budget springs would probably be the best way to go though.


Vortec springs aren't good for much more than a Vortec stock cam.


If great power, a wicked idle, milage, and speed all came on used parts with a shoe-string budget we'd all drive race cars. You can skimp in some areas but hoping and wishing never made a part any better. Fix the heads now and they'll serve you well in the future.


On a side note I have a set of Vortec heads I've spent about 30 hours on so far- with about another 15 to go. P/P job, 2.02/1.6 valves, 7/16 screw in studs, 1.6 rockers, they'll serve me quite well. Still looking at valve springs- probably go with the 918's recomended for the cam, may go with plane duals though.
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Old 12-04-2008, 09:03 PM
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i was looking for a cam that would work with those heads but it seems like i need to do some modifying to them so can you explain where and how to grind the bottom off the retainers and what springs to get, and what do you mean by fixing the seats guides and seals. i can do a lot but when it comes to cams and whatnot i get lost sorry for the trouble guys, im not trying to skimp out on parts and half *** it, i wanna strong reliable engine with some power and a nice sound
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Old 12-04-2008, 09:42 PM
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I'm using a Comp XE268 with my Vortec headed 406. Noticeable idle, but well-mannered. It's lift should also keep you from having to do any machining.
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Old 12-04-2008, 10:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MI2600
I'm using a Comp XE268 with my Vortec headed 406. Noticeable idle, but well-mannered. It's lift should also keep you from having to do any machining.
There you go scottsdale82, MI2600 has some hands on experience with his Comp Cam.
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Old 12-04-2008, 10:29 PM
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that would be this cam right?

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...4&autoview=sku

and can anyone find me some new springs for the heads, there cheap and might as well get them, i was looking around but have no luck or know what to look for so can someone give me a model number or a link and it would be greatly appreciated
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Old 12-04-2008, 11:15 PM
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pistons????

I didn't see anywhere you mentioned what pistons your using??

#1 flat tops will give you way to high CR for pump gas

#2 If you want to use a cam withb the specs AP72 listed or there about, your best bet would be around 9-10:1 CR

you really are kinda puttin the carriage in front of the horse by choosing the cam before knowing your CR.
stock 400 pistons are ~20cc dish
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Old 12-04-2008, 11:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eatonde
I didn't see anywhere you mentioned what pistons your using??

#1 flat tops will give you way to high CR for pump gas

#2 If you want to use a cam withb the specs AP72 listed or there about, your best bet would be around 9-10:1 CR

you really are kinda puttin the carriage in front of the horse by choosing the cam before knowing your CR.
stock 400 pistons are ~20cc dish
eatonde, you beat me out by a couple minutes, but you said the same thing I was going to.

82, you can't just pick a cam out of thin air without knowing the static compression ratio of the motor and expect it to be right for the motor. While this hobby ain't rocket surgery (I love that), it does take a certain amount of engineering and common sense to put together a combination that works.

You're looking for a choppy idle. These are your words:
"I am looking into the lumpiest cam i can get, it would have a stock stall converter btw." Now you see, right there you have screwed the pooch. A lumpy cam is lumpy because it closes the intake valve later in the intake cycle while the piston is rising in the bore. The piston pushes some of the mixture that has just been drawn into the cylinder, back up the intake tract to confuse the carburetor venturi. The venturi doesn't know whether to sh** or go blind because it can't properly meter fuel into the air stream with air coming at it from both directions. To begin to make power, you must get the revs past this stagnation range and "up on the cam". If you try to use a stock converter with a lumpy cam, the motor won't pull the hat off your head until you get into the cam's power range. So, install lumpy and a loose converter or install smooth and a stock converter. You can't have it both ways.

Assuming your static compression ratio is somewhere between 8.75 and 10.0, this cam would give you lumpy and work with the stock Vortec springs/retainers if you use 1.5 rockers with it.
http://www.cranecams.com/?show=brows...tType=camshaft
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Old 12-04-2008, 11:28 PM
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I have no clue, I bought the whole engine minus carb for 425 and it ran when removed fro a k5 blazer, it was rebuilt about 5k miles ago and everything is stock on it but rebuilt and bored .30 over and ran on pump gas if that helps
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Old 12-04-2008, 11:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1
eatonde, you beat me out by a couple minutes, but you said the same thing I was going to.

82, you can't just pick a cam out of thin air without knowing the static compression ratio of the motor and expect it to be right for the motor. While this hobby ain't rocket surgery (I love that), it does take a certain amount of engineering and common sense to put together a combination that works.

You're looking for a choppy idle. These are your words:
"I am looking into the lumpiest cam i can get, it would have a stock stall converter btw." Now you see, right there you have screwed the pooch. A lumpy cam is lumpy because it closes the intake valve later in the intake cycle while the piston is rising in the bore. The piston pushes some of the mixture that has just been drawn into the cylinder, back up the intake tract to confuse the carburetor venturi. The venturi doesn't know whether to sh** or go blind because it can't properly meter fuel into the air stream with air coming at it from both directions. To begin to make power, you must get the revs past this stagnation range and "up on the cam". If you try to use a stock converter with a lumpy cam, the motor won't pull the hat off your head until you get into the cam's power range. So, install lumpy and a loose converter or install smooth and a stock converter. You can't have it both ways.

Assuming your static compression ratio is somewhere between 8.75 and 10.0, this cam would give you lumpy and work with the stock Vortec springs/retainers if you use 1.5 rockers with it.
http://www.cranecams.com/?show=brows...tType=camshaft


i understand this thats why i was asking whats the biggest cam i could use with my tc because its a heavyduty towing offroading one i got when i had my tranny built up when i had my 350 and if i had a too big of a cam it would over heat, so i was asking for your opinion
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Old 12-05-2008, 12:07 AM
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During a quick search, I came up with this.

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/sear...archid=2161131

And this.

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/sear...archid=2161138

Last edited by carsavvycook; 12-05-2008 at 12:15 AM.
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Old 12-05-2008, 12:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 82Scottsdale
i understand this thats why i was asking whats the biggest cam i could use with my tc because its a heavyduty towing offroading one i got when i had my tranny built up when i had my 350 and if i had a too big of a cam it would over heat, so i was asking for your opinion
Yeah, I suspect maybe it would overheat, depending on where you have to idle the motor with the lumpy cam. You'd certainly be over the usual 750-800 rpm idle of a standard cam that converter was designed to work with.

My best advice from here is to call up one of the techs at your favorite cam grinder. Crane makes these short lift cams, so does Comp and Isky. Here, for instance, is a Comp that may work for you, call up their tech and discuss it.
Hyd. 1500 to 5500 Part number 12-210-249, grind number 268H. 268/268, 218/218, .454/.454, 110 LSA, Choppy idle, works with stock converter.
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Old 12-05-2008, 06:26 AM
How fast is fast enough?
 
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I'm determined to not get in a nother pissing match about cam choice, just realize that your 400 cubes and Vortec can tame a cam. I think 218 is a little too small for a 400 BUT a lot of people do like it.

I recomend trying to find a video of a 400 with that cam in it- it will sound different than a 350 because of displacement.
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