408 head question

also i know that milling the head decreases combustion chamber size in turn reducing comp. i just worded it like that to make sure nobody assumed they were 76cc by the make and brand. my bad


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one more thing. Isky recomended this cam with my engine set up. by to big for those heads do you mean that it will not run well or that i will not be worthy of the bottom end?

Milling the heads simply raises the compression. You do not want to mill any 76cc head if your trying to lower compression or deck for that matter. I'm not sure if it's just me, but I think you still have something confused.

I was just describing the heads i have. i did not mill them i bought them already milled and was just explaining that in the post!

Bolt it together as you have it. The Isky custom 274/284-8 cam is just right for this motor with 3.42's and stockish 12" converter. Use 92+ octane gas and slightly cooler non projected tip spark plugs. A edelbrock 600 carb will probabily need some jetting attention.
The 750 eddy is a lot closer out of the box.
When you want more power, pull the S/S heads off and fully port them. They work well with full porting. Then step up the converter stall ,gear and a larger Isky cam. Eg: Isky 292 MegaCam, If that Mustang gets too froggy.
If you watch your total timing (32 to 36deg),carb jetting, get the right spark plugs and don't use crappy gas you'll be fine.
Your 3.42:1 geared Caprice is fairly heavy so for best light to light performance you want a short diameter but sticky tire EG: BFG P225-50-15 drag radial.
Air-lift rear air bags (drag bags) and the short BFG's will really help the traction on your car.
http://www.airliftcompany.com/

Depending on what has been done to the heads as far as a valve job you could be looking at 400 hp and 430 + ft # of torque. If you run out of rpm grab a gear.

now thats some good feedback. thanks

The heads need to be at leats fully ported and polished to really let that cam shine. Of course once that's done a slightly larger cam would work even better- and the cycle starts.

It will run fine, and you'll probably make a good 400hp, however with a good set of heads and maybea little mroe lift you would pick up about 50hp and loose no torque. That's a lot of power left on the table to me. I understand the budget constraints, hell I have a hard time justifying a new set of heads too, but I would definitely put it at the top of your "to buy" list.

He basically just told you what you wanted to hear.

Also what ap72 just said, and he could have said it better, was all people were trying to tell you is your leaving a lot power on the table with your current heads. Run them.

Really ? How much power and torque do you think it is going to put out ? And how did I know what he wanted to hear ?

Yeah.. go pick a fight with someone else dude. I'm not buyin in.

Research whatever you're on here for and leave the fighting to sissies. There are always things to call someone out on.. and I have done it.. but once you mature, you learn that ***** like this doesn't matter. Opinions are just like what.. you got it. That's what this forum is for.

This lets me know you think you know everything.. Hmm.. gettin pissed off on someone elses post.. I had a good day, but you made it even better.

Goin to bed now.. goodnight!

i figured that i would at least do some bowl work just to be safe. what does everyone think of gasket matching? worth it or not? this is my first time with cleaning up the combustion chamber so let me know how it looks. [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG]

The chambers look beauti. Now strip the valves out of it and get down to the meat and potatoes. (deep in the ports) These heads work really well if you don;t mind doing the port work. Lokk at those big nasty valve guide bosses right in the middle of the valve bowl and airflow path. Need to be streamlined so the air slides past easily on the way to the cylinder. Use long 6" shaft carbide porting burrs to get in deep without nicking the valve seats. A lot of it can be done from the manifold flange side. Then smooth and blend the bowl under the valve job and radius the short side. Take your time. Port match to a 1205 intake gasket for a RPM manifold don't get carried away there.
The exhaust side is basicly the same: smooth blend bowls, short side radius, guide boss streamline contouring, general port cleanup.
Do not make the port exits huge. Your headers entries are not that big.
Stay off the valve job or you'll be doing it again.