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Old 05-22-2008, 09:17 PM
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41 chevy on s10 frame- wheelbase issues

Hey all-
I've recently decided to put a '41 Chevy pickup on my '84 s10's frame. The only problem is that my s10 is an extended cab- So, with the regular 1/2 ton bed (from the 41) the s10's wheelbase is too long.

I was wondering (since I haven't been able to find a 3/4 ton, or "long" bed of a similar year) would I be better off trying to extend the bed of the 41 pickup- or just scoot the fenders back some, trim the frame, and try to make the shorter 1/2 ton bed work on the longer ext cab s10 chassis??

I'd LOVE to buy new bed sides to extend my bed- or find a long bed to replace it with- I'd even build me one, if I had a good "how to" article. But, I just can't afford to buy the new bed sides... and not having much luck finding a bed or how to article.

BTW- the reason I'm using an extended cab s10 is because I already had it; and it's already got the V8 running gear Plus- my Pa is pretty much giving me the 41 body. Which would you rather cruise in: an 84 s10, or a 41 pickup?? I'm sure ya all see where I'm coming from, on my decision to do the swap.

Anywho- any advice will be appreciated. Thanks!

Nooj

Last edited by lumberjacknooj; 05-23-2008 at 04:32 AM.
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Old 05-22-2008, 09:32 PM
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You could shorten the wheelbase on the s10 frame, to match your wheelbase.....or just use the front part of the s10 frame.

Whats wrong with the original frame?
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Old 05-22-2008, 09:41 PM
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There is no original frame to speak of. All we have is the body for the '41 pickup.

I'm not sure if shortening the frame would be more or less trouble than stretching the bed. If I chopped the frame, I'd have to trim my driveshaft as well. Body work would be much less forgiving, if I happened to weld it crooked than frame work would be.

I'll keep it in mind though- Thanks.

Nooj
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Old 05-23-2008, 05:31 AM
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shorten the frame it is easy and been done many times. try this forum
http://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/
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Old 05-23-2008, 06:54 AM
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How much longer is it than the standard frame? If it is just a couple inches and you have access to a long bed...you could trim the excess of the front of the long bed to fit the S10 frame. My only concern is....these truck beds look long to start with but if you don't care thats the route I would take. Just remove the front panel (I think its called the header panel?), drill out the spot welds on the front stake pocket brace and remove, trim off what you don't need, re-weld the stake pocket brace to the bedside, and replace the header panel. You'll still probably have to extend the 1/2 ton running boards unless the 3/4 ton RB's can be trimmed and used. These guys are right though....I would shorten the S10 frame instead. Does it kick up far enough forward of the rearend to just move the rear forward and cut the excess off of the back of the frame?

Dave
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Old 05-23-2008, 07:20 AM
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I'm with the folks above who recommend shortening the frame. But, here's something of a "how to" that might help a bit if you really want to build a new bed. My bed is much shorter than what you need, but the basic fabrication is about the same...and at least you'll get an idea of what the project entails.









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Old 05-23-2008, 08:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cboy
I'm with the folks above who recommend shortening the frame. But, here's something of a "how to" that might help a bit if you really want to build a new bed. My bed is much shorter than what you need, but the basic fabrication is about the same...and at least you'll get an idea of what the project entails.
Cboy,

I wanted to say at first I wasnt sure the project looked right...but obviously your vision of what you wanted has turned out perfect. I really like this project. It reminds me a lot of some of the old Hot Wheels I played with as a boy.....almost a comic charactuer of a stretched and skewed hot rod with a resemblence of a C-cab. One of the guys I work with just looked over my shoulder and said it looked like one of those cool hot rods off of the old Munster TV show. It looks real slick and now I want to build a home built too! Am I mistakened or is that a pair of open wheel tractor trailer fenders (Peterbuilt) on ther rear? I'll have to look at your journal again.

Back to the thread.....Cboy does have a good idea. I too don't want to pay for new bed sides for my project and mine are rough enough that they will need attention so I'm concidering making my own bed as well. I do wish I had a bead roller to stiffen the sides up. I'll check with one of my buddies and try to procure his. These beds really are a simple design and should be to hard to make.

Dave
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Old 05-23-2008, 09:57 AM
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[QUOTE=Stovebolter]...almost a comic charactuer of a stretched and skewed hot rod with a resemblence of a C-cab.... is that a pair of open wheel tractor trailer fenders (Peterbuilt) on ther rear?

If you go way back to the beginning of my journal you'll note that my initial inspiration for the design was the Goodguy's yellow logo sedan - which is a comic book drawing. That illustration got hugely massaged and altered over time but the exaggerated comic book lines can definitely still be detected.

Those rear fenders are just a pair of Fleet Farm trailer fenders welded together and then cut out to fit around the curves of the body.





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Old 05-23-2008, 10:45 AM
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[QUOTE=cboy]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stovebolter
...almost a comic charactuer of a stretched and skewed hot rod with a resemblence of a C-cab.... is that a pair of open wheel tractor trailer fenders (Peterbuilt) on ther rear?

If you go way back to the beginning of my journal you'll note that my initial inspiration for the design was the Goodguy's yellow logo sedan - which is a comic book drawing. That illustration got hugely massaged and altered over time but the exaggerated comic book lines can definitely still be detected.

Those rear fenders are just a pair of Fleet Farm trailer fenders welded together and then cut out to fit around the curves of the body.
Well....it looks cool. You've got the gears turning in my head now. Thinking about a 2 door sedan for my wife maybe....or something for my son. I'll have to check into possbile title/license issues in my state.

Dave
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Old 05-23-2008, 02:39 PM
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Thanks for the replies, fellas.

The s10 wheelbase is about 123", and the 41's is about 115". My frame's too long for the bed I have.

Cboy- that's definitely a cool project you have going on there. And I admire your craftsmanship. It gives me some inspiration to build my own bed; Although, I've heard a few votes for shortening the frame.

There seems to be a nice straight section of frame- both sides parallel, right where the center of the s10 cab was. If I was to shorten the frame- would it be best to remove it from that section, then graft it back together?

Actually, there is a little bit of space in front of the rear end, where the frame is high. I could possibly move the leaf springs forward, and trim off the rear of the frame. I believe that would make the front leaf spring perch sit lower to the ground though, and put the spring perches (front to rear) at more of an offset. Would that have a negative affect on the suspension?

Nooj

Last edited by lumberjacknooj; 05-23-2008 at 05:12 PM.
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Old 01-09-2009, 04:08 PM
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Just get a chevy S-10 short cab long box measures in at 117.9 or 118 inches should do you just about right just my opinion thanks vette59jdwl
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Old 01-09-2009, 05:24 PM
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shortening frame

If you decide to shorten your frame check out chris davenport willys picts posted on the metalshapers web site. It shows a lot of picts of the build. He has his frame on the college shop frame dolly,,To do chassis work, to shorten a frame ,etc.. it really helps to have a good square, level platform to start. temp cross pieces and uprights hold everything so you can measure, mark cut and reallign everything.
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Old 01-10-2009, 11:18 AM
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Just the opinion of a new bee on this site ??But again i state that if your heart is set on using a chevy S-10 frame the regular cab S10 with long box, it measures in at 118 inches thats only 3 inches longer than your willys at 115 iches ,so you either chop the frame and shorten it 3 inches behind the cab, also shorten the driveshave (Depending on which rear end your going to use) OR you do one of two body mods you either move your fenders on your box back 3 inchec to (center) or you take the front off of your box and put in a 3 inch filler piece in the box and attach the original front piece to this increasing the front part of your box by 3 inches ,centering the original fender on the 118 inch wheel base.
thanks for listening the rest is up to you How much work do you want to put into this project,, I always try to keep things as simple as possible not create more headaches. vette59jdwl
PS My take on this would be to do the body mods first.Change the location of the fenders on your box If this is not satisfactory take the front piece off the box place the box on the 118 S10 frame and put a filler piece in the box 3 inches and attach the front piece.
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Old 01-10-2009, 11:42 AM
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In case you didnt notice this thread was started in 05/08.
he's prob driving it by now.
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Old 01-11-2009, 04:34 AM
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Kruzr, I wish I was driving it by now!!! Probably should be, if I wasn't such a procrastinator (plus working six to seven 10 hour days a week doesn't leave me much time).

I appreciate everyone's input on this. I think the frame shortening would be a more simple move. My neighbor (mom's uncle) has a frame machine that I'm sure he'd let us use to square everything up when we shorten it.

If I stretch the bed, then I'll have to deal with stretching the running boards too. I think that it would be easier to make the frame swap look good- rather than stretching the body panels that will be seen (considering my abilities, and lack there of).

Also- I know it's probably horrible thing to do- but I'm tinkering with the idea of swapping a '36 Ford (car) front end on the '41 chevy p/u

Nooj

Last edited by lumberjacknooj; 01-11-2009 at 12:11 PM. Reason: said frame "stretch", but meant "shorten"
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