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Old 08-05-2007, 02:10 PM
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41 coupe panel help

I am seeking advice on door to rear panel alignment. I am doing a frame-off on a 41 ford business coupe. As can be seen from pics, body is supported at the cowl and at the rear by heavy angle iron on wooden supports. Also intermediate support beam under the floor pan. Cross bracing was in place before the frame was removed.Precise measurements suggest that I have no body distortion since disassembly. The passengers rockers have been repaced (front to back) and the rear inner fender well patched . I am going to tack in the rear quarter panel but first I will hang the passengers door and after alignment of it to the upper portion of the rear panel, I will tack weld this upper portion where it attaches to the rocker. It attaches via a vertical channel that runs inside the panel behind the latch. The pics should help show what I want to accomplish. Once this is done then I can tack the rear quarter panel patch to the upper portion after aligning it to the trailing lower edge of the door. I don't have the running boards yet (only original rusty ones) so I hope I can proceed without. My plan is to complete the passenger side and then take what I have learned and do the drivers side. I opted to do a frame off since the rockers were toast on both sides. Based on those of you that have tackled this job , what suggestions do you have ? Am I on track ? Hope the pics send ok. If not I will re-post. Thanks !
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Old 08-08-2007, 10:26 AM
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door alignment

Hi,i have a 48 ford 5 pass coupe,im doing the same body off. i replaced my rockers with 1 x 3 in tube inside of new rockers,replaced entire floor and trunk floor also. we are doing the exact same thing....heck,i even have the same mig welder.but,you say you have wood???? i dont know what you are talking about,i have none. my doors didnt line up either. heres what i did.i removed the bottom hinge from cowl,and bolted it to door. then between hinge and cowl,i used washers to close up the alignment. after i had it perfect,i took the washers out,measured the thickness of all the washers,and made a steel panel (shim) the same thickness. bolted it between hinge and cowl,and that did the trick...im boatbob2@earthlink.net located in north florida.
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Old 08-10-2007, 02:55 PM
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Hi ! Thanks for the reply. The 'wood' refers only to the wooden blocking that I built to support the angle iron that the body sits on. The blocking is approx 30 in high to allow room to work under the body. Did you have the body off the frame to replace the rockers, floor etc ? Now that i have replaced the passengers door , I can see that the door frame opening (horizontal width) has decreased by approx 2-3 mm along the lower section of the opening. I think that welding the rockers, fender patch etc has caused the metal to shrink, pulling the opening together. I have decided to put the body back on the frame to see if the opening spreads apart slightly. If it doesn't then i will cut through the rockers to see if they will part a bit to allow the door to fit better. Are you restoring your 48 or rodding it ? I am crazy about the 48 and older short door Ford coupes and its my dream to hotrod the one I am working on. Now if only I could ' dream' up lots of cash to speed things up !! Send some pics of your car if you can.
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Old 08-10-2007, 03:00 PM
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Hello again - Re-read your post and see that you have removed the body from the frame. How are you supporting the body ? It seems that in your case the door opening has increased since you are essentially shimming behind the hinge to move your door back a bit.
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Old 08-15-2007, 06:36 PM
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body off ,,,,48 ford coupe

Hi guy,i was offline for a week. my confuser picked up 3 viruses. it ONLY cost $241.00 to straighten it out...WOW !!!i have a lot of photos of my 48 LONG DOOR COUPE..hahaha,send me your email address and ill send them to you.before i took the body off the chassis,i welded 5/8 in re-bar between the door openings ,top to opposite bottom,and bottom to opposite top ( x ed it) then also side to side just above the rusted out rockers.also X-ed the trunk,(i took out ALL the floor boards and rockers. i bought new rockers (what a joke) i think they were about 18 guage (i dont know mm)i extended the rear of the rocker about 20 in. (all the way to the rear wheel wells. before i welded them in,i got some 1 x 3 IN tubing 3/16 wall (thickness) and plug welded it to the inside of the rockers.primed the rockers very good,then tacked each side. when i had them in good( by the way,)the rocker goes about 15 in or so in front of door jamb.after everything was leveled,side to side and front to rear,i finished welding the rockers in, when i cut out the floor,i left the trans tunnel, about 1 1/2 in long on each side,so i could rest the new boards on it,and the rockers.,then i got some 14 guage sheet steel,cut it to fit ,tacked it good all the way around. then finished welding it solid.i put tubs for big tires on the rear,so i cut the chassis,and re-did it. ill send you more info and the photos. my email is boatbob2@earthlink.net send me yours.
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Old 08-16-2007, 10:05 PM
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Hello - my email address is rkerrd@sasktel.net . Who did you purchase the rockers from ? Were they poorly constructed ? I priced them out through EMS auto and I seem to recall that they were approx $900 per side complete.Thats why I built my own and they seem to have turned out OK.
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Old 08-16-2007, 10:13 PM
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48 coupe

,i will email the photos to you this afternoon.the rockers i bought were from dennis carpenter. they were ok,but i didnt like the thin metal they were made of. thats why i welded the 1 x 3 in tubing inside the rockers. im hotrodding my coupe,383 chev,demon carb,700r4 trans. Bobby
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