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Old 02-04-2011, 12:14 PM
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4200 Lbs too heavy for MII ??

Is there a way to beef up the MII or is a no go, I know issuses have occured with even 3000 Lbs cars.
If i cant go that way, how do i go? (i am a newbe)

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Old 02-04-2011, 01:16 PM
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Ford designed the Pinto/Mustang II IFS for small cars. Small economy cars. I do not believe I could ever trust one in a vehicle as heavy as 3500 pounds or more.

Just be aware that I do not like the Pinto/Mustang II under anything after about 1940 and before 1933 or so.

Which vehicle are you wanting to upgrade the suspension on ??

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Old 02-04-2011, 01:58 PM
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You are right to be concerned. The "Mustang II" suspension is really the Pinto suspension. It was marginal for the 3,000 lb MII. Why people put these under half-ton pickups is a mystery to me.
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Old 02-04-2011, 02:44 PM
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MII not for 4200Lbs

The car is a 1953 ZIM (think Imperial Limo)
The GMC and Chevy Canyon truck have the exact same tread width, so if I cant go aftermarket I was thinking going this way and used the engine trans and all... First time and need some wisdom here... is there a way to beef up the MII, I dont need a fast ride I need a safe one so welding 1/4 plate around the MII and going to 3/4 Grade 8 bolts is not an issue.
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Old 02-04-2011, 02:52 PM
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You will get different opinions on the Mustang II and where it is best used. If you are talking a stock Mustang II suspension cut out of a car then yes it would be too light for a 4200# vehicle. If you are talking about an aftermarket front suspension based off the Mustang II geometry and only using the stock spindles then it can be a different story.

Fat Man Fabrications makes a nice heavy duty unit with a 3/16 steel crossmember and stainless steel control arms. The sandard Mustang II wheel bearings are heavy duty and Fat Man uses a screw in Mopar lower ball joint. This is the setup I have in my 1970 Mercedes 280SEL with a Ford 4.6L V8 and the car rides and handles nice. The mercedes is full of good german steel and tips the scale somewhere North of 3800# so it's getting up in the range you are talking about. I had to go the heavier V8 Mustang II spring and the car sits with the lower control arms level to the ground. We've got about 25K miles on the car now and no problems.

Look up Fat Man and give them a call, they have suspensions for large variety of vehicles.
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Old 02-04-2011, 03:03 PM
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Here is a page from Heidts, explaining most everything you need to know:
here

I have seen Mll used on many cars, the weight distribution as explained by Heidts clears up a lot of questions. Then go to this place and look around. These parts are built to another degree of strength from stock. Tom uses 1/4 in. instead of 3/16 metal, everything he builds is turned up a notch from stock. Give him a call, he is honest as the day is long and will not hesitate to tell you if you're barking up the wrong tree. I have his suspension under my 36 Ford, it handles better than my 2002 Toyota P.U.
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Old 02-04-2011, 04:00 PM
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I believe I would look at a XJ6 Jaguar IFS ...



And trimmed up a little



Under the frame ...




They are heavy enough, and a lot less expensive than a KIT.
I suggest you look at this thread ... on other internet forum and see how easily the Jag can be adapted.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=451036

I bought a complete XJ6 car for less than 600 dollars.
The XJ6 has disc brakes, rack and pinion ( power steering ), and Chevrolet car bolt pattern rims ( with standard 1/2 20 thread wheel studs ... same as a Ford )
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Old 02-04-2011, 05:15 PM
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Do you know what these guys (XJ6) are hub to hub?
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Old 02-05-2011, 12:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charlesmajor
Do you know what these guys (XJ6) are hub to hub?
60 inches
Same as stock Pinto/Mustang II I am told.

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Old 02-05-2011, 05:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deuce
60 inches
Same as stock Pinto/Mustang II I am told.

.

you're told wrong.
MII is 55"-56" wide at the wheel mounting surface.


no idea on the jag..
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Old 02-05-2011, 07:53 AM
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jag conversion,

the whole jag with a dead engine , from 500 to a grand, you can use front and rear suspension be sure to use the jag steering shaft- u joint if you rubber mount the front, clutch and brake pedals M cyl etc and the cable wiper system WITH the jag switch, E brake handle what ever then sell the scrap for a a few bucks...They do a lot of jag conversions in the UK and Australa and NZ, a lot cheaper than buying the kits, I printed off the jag dimensions a while back, It is posted on the HAMB site. second page of the link from Deuce

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Old 02-05-2011, 08:22 AM
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Well like I said this is my first rodeo, so I am not sure where to get the numbers from.
Tread is 57.48 inches
outer bearings caps is 64"
What I called the "face" is 62" (Please see photos to see if I know what "face" is).
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Old 02-05-2011, 12:16 PM
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well, i go from where the wheels bolt up...
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Old 02-05-2011, 01:12 PM
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Ok Guess I will need to make one more measurement..
But it looks like the Jag have a tread width of 58 so that is pretty close to 57.48-- but is that close enough?
The jag weighs in at 3900-4300Lbs also good
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Old 02-05-2011, 02:20 PM
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Heidts would be out of business

Boxed framed and crossmember. It is just fine, smooth ride. The only with the Ford coupe, I have a problem with my rear brakes. I really don't how pounds, I can find by driving on a scale near by my house. If the a arms cracked, I can weld back. By the way, is only Cadillac 500 75 # over a small chevy engine.
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