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Old 11-12-2004, 08:49 AM
67 Nova 400sbc.4L60
 
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428 ford

I am writing this for a buddy. He has a 428 ford Galaxy ,10.2 comp. 700R4 trans (yes) Alluminum griffin radiator. 23"x17 " core size. six blade rigid fan 1" away from the rad, no shroud . 180 deg. thermostat. On a 50 deg. day driving on the highway for 10 miles it runs 190 Deg. after five stop lights in town the temp goes up to 240 deg. It has two cans of water wetter in it. The crank has 6" and the pump has a 5.5 " pulley. Stock converter and 3.25 rear gear. The cam is 270 deg.with .512 lift. and 240 @ .050 . Original point distributor with 16 Deg initial and 38 deg. total. advance.

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Old 11-12-2004, 04:11 PM
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only thing i can suggest is to get a shroud on there. it will help direct the air better through the rad.

JB
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Old 11-12-2004, 04:27 PM
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johnny has it right - look carefully at the air flow part of the equation. In my experience, poor air flow is the problem the vast majority of the time. Your description of running cool 'til you stop-and-go confirms that notion. The shroud would be a big first step.
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Old 11-13-2004, 07:18 AM
67 Nova 400sbc.4L60
 
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428

The owner of the car is a Tinsmith by trade and he will be making a shroud , he made one for the copper rad that was in it when he had the engine built . And it ran the same.(hot) He just thought there might be some other issue here. Thanks Guys.
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Old 11-13-2004, 11:47 AM
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428

Another thing to consider is a new thermostat. Thermostats can get wierd acting when they get a lot of age on them.
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Old 11-14-2004, 08:28 AM
67 Nova 400sbc.4L60
 
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Thermostat

I,ll have him remove the old thermostat and I'll bring it to work to check the opening temperature. Thanks again.
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Old 11-14-2004, 12:14 PM
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Overheating Ford 428

Had the same problem - good temp as long as I was driving. Soon as I started hitting a red light every two blocks (and naturally they were red when I got there) the heat started creeping up.
Had a shroud made - no help.
Finally I removed the mechanical fan and the shroud and installed two 12 in. fans (room restrictions) with a temp switch from Summit (on at 180 and off at 165). Seems the mechanical fan just wasn't pulling enough at idle speed to keep the engine cool.
Another point: I used Haden fans from Auto Zone that were rated at 880 c.f.m.. I saw an ad in a hot rod magazine from Zirco Products that advertised that their fan pulled 1600 c.f.m.and ordered one just to try and improve the cooling - Bull S**t, that d**n fan didn't pull one bit more than the Haden fans. Matter of fact, it looks identical to the Haden fans. The guys at Zirco were good to deal with but the 1600 c.f.m. is just not what that fan pulls.
Anyway, if the shroud doesn't help, try using SHROUDED electric fan(s) with the switch and relay(s) and that may do it.
Good Luck,
Charlie Smith
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Old 11-14-2004, 12:51 PM
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428

Other options to consider:
Going to one -two sizes larger jets on your primary side.
Retard the timing 6 degrees. It sounds like you have way too much intitial advance for that engine, especially with the higher compression it has in stock form.
Has the engine cooling system been flushed out real good?
Something you might also consider, put a vacuum gauge on the engine and see if you have the right power valve.

While I never raced any FE blocks, the guys that I know that did, usually ran only about 10-11 degrees intitial advance and about 34 degrees total.

As a rule, the higher the compression ratio you run the less intitial and total advance you need.
I only ran 12 on my engines and they were all Clevelands and Winsors, with totals of 38-40.

If you want to get a couple more degrees of centrifical advance out of your stock distributor, take the breaker plate off and remove the little rubber band bumpers off of the counter weight stops. A good way to bring in your advance a little sooner is to change the springs. You want full advance at about 2500 rpm.
Your counterweights will have two different weight springs on them, as a rule. Take the heavier spring out and replace it with one like the lighter one that is in there. If you have some other distributors to play with, rob the springs out of them and do some experimenting with them. Ford made 3 or 4 different weight springs for those distributors, and all the point distributors used the same springs, so you can bandit them from any stock Ford point distributor. The lighter the springs the faster your advance will come in.

I would also invest in a hotter coil. If you have any Ford electronic coils laying around from EEC 1 and 2 engines, these coils have 4-5,000 more volts out put than do the stock points coils. Just food for thought. You can easily modify your coil hook ups by putting bayonet lug connectors on your wires and they will fit over the T shaped terminals on the electronic coils.

Last edited by Max Keith; 11-14-2004 at 12:48 PM.
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Old 11-14-2004, 07:10 PM
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A shroud will make all the difference in the world. I have a car with a 14.7:1 358 chevy that I drive on the streets to shows and what not. It used to overheat like your buddys car. I got a shroud made for it and now it never goes above 180 under any conditions besides full out 1/4 mile passes. Even then, it only hits 195-200 at most.

Adam
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