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  #61 (permalink)  
Old 09-02-2010, 02:14 PM
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There is an aftermarket out there that will support 800+ cubic inches... All it takes is a LOT of money. 99% of the posters on this forum do not have that kind of pocket change, nor the money it takes to build the car to handle that power. If they want 600hp a lot of them go with a 496 with a reworked th400 or 4L80e as it is a cheap effective combo that can still manage to get people in the 10's.

Oh, and for some weird reason F1 racers can spin their engines REALLY high and yet they have ran relatively short rod ratios... The limiting factor for them is how fast the fuel can burn. Also, some industrial diesels loaf along at less than 500 rpm but have really long rod/stroke ratios...

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  #62 (permalink)  
Old 09-02-2010, 02:38 PM
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1988 Honda Formula 1 1.5L with turbo

Bore 3.11
stroke 2
rod length 3.60
rod ratio 1.8:1

torque peak @10,000 rpms 344 ft/lb
peak horsepower @13,600 rpm 700 horses.

Can you believe all from a little 1500cc motor?!? LOL

That may not seem like a very high rod ratio, but remember it only has a 2 inch stroke too. Some people think 1.8:1 is perfect for all around compromise.
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  #63 (permalink)  
Old 09-02-2010, 02:55 PM
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Whatever "gain" that may or may not be seen w/a RR different from what a "normal" 496 would have is negated by the excessive valve train instability or the costs associated w/overcoming them when using a TD block. You just seem bound to ignore folks who know their ****- both here, and guys like Pat Musi who has built more 500+ engines than anyone here, and has the records to back up HIS knowledge- should you continue to ignore those of us here.

Originally Posted by Bottlebaby
Last year Muscle Car magazine had an article on the F.A.S.T. racing class of Stock appearing cars. In this article was a Corvette with a 511 CID based on a 454 BBC. It featured a 4.375 inch bore and a 4.25 stroke( the bore was a full 1/8 overbore and the stroke is common) I have also seen this in Car Craft with a 4.31 bore(+.060) and a 4.375 inch stroke.

My question is which is easier to build from the stand point of availabilty of usable blocks & commonly produced cranks( production or aftermarket)?
If this question is still valid, the answers have been given, although in several posts.

To sum it up: The 4.375" crank is a "maybe- maybe not" deal, AFA clearancing it w/o hitting water. Or oil. Or both. You can do a half-fill of Hardblok, but that's getting out there, reliability-wise (possible cooling issues), for little gain over a 4.25" crank that WILL fit w/o issue.

As long as you build the engine to well known and understood practices, this engine will be capable of delivering you to nirvana w/ease- spray and all.

I have a sneaking suspicion that you may not have any BBC experience at this early point. But if you were to take a ride in a 468 BBC done right- you'd **** yourself!

A passenger car 4-bolt block w/a rotator from Scat and a good set of heads from *fill in the blank* and a solid roller valvetrain is the basis for an engine that will give you all that you've asked for. Plus.

The cam is what will determine whether or not you need any astronomical RPM to reach peak power. To over cam a 500 CID engine will take some doing- this engine will swallow a cam within the realm of being streetable (i.e. enough vacuum to not be a pig down low and not need a 5K rpm stall converter w/4.88's out back) w/o so much as a hiccough.

And while I'm here, you do realize that you've got to put this power to the pavement- no mean feat when you get up there where this type engine will put you, power-wise. The entire suspension and drivetrain has to be up to the task- very little room for cheap or OEM here except maybe the rearend housing, if you can get a good 9" or Dana 60 w/lotsa splines and aftermarket diff, etc., HD driveshaft and U-joints, built trans and TC, the works. Probably be best to just plan on back-halving it from the get-go. That way, you'll have the adjustability needed and the potential for enough traction to make this worth the effort.

I don't know how many cars have been spanked by cars w/half the HP- but were able to apply ALL of it to the pavement, while the big numbers guy went up in smoke. Happens all the time.

Don't forget the subframe connectors if applicable, fuel cell and system including a dedicated N2O system plumbed separately from the gasoline feed to the carb, cage, helmet and harness unless you never plan on taking it to the track- or have a death wish.

There's more- but you get the idea.
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Old 09-02-2010, 02:57 PM
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Well, I looked into it because I remember seeing such short rods in an old F1 engine and the ratio is rather long. Apparently its long because they can't get it any shorter, the engines components only allow for a certain space and with a short stroke ~2" a short rod (~4") is still along rod/stroke ratio. I also found out that many endurance engines do run a short ratio, and many run a long ratio- primarily dictated by the deck height and the stroke- meaning the rod is an after thought (long enough to connect the wrist pin to the crankshaft).

While I don't think anyone can disagree about rod ratio having an effect (just look at the piston travel in relation to the crankshaft travel) the weight it carries is VERY small (smaller than the change felt from 1º of ignition timing).
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  #65 (permalink)  
Old 09-02-2010, 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by BottleBaby
Is there an aftermarket block like the Bow Tie that will go to 4.31 or 4.375 and accept a 4.375/ 4.25 inch stroke?
Any stock 4.25" bore block will handle overbore to 4.350" and the 4.250" stroke, you don't need an aftermarket block just to do this. Doesn't hurt to use one if you want at that point though, but it isn't mandatory.

If you want the 4.375" bore it will need the aftermarket block.

Any of these engines you are considering building will completely destroy any factory type 4-speed transmission, you will need a Liberty, Jerico, or something like a built Tremec 5-speed or a built T-56. Just throwing this in there because you mentioned 4-speed in your earlier post and in other threads and were referring to stock 4-speeds like Muncie and Borg-Warner...they don't have a snowball's chance in the hot place of surviving.
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Old 09-03-2010, 12:43 AM
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Alright enough!

If you can't play nice with the other kids in the sand box we will take away the sand box.

In general when discussing things on internet forums you should be talking to the OP not every one else who has an opinion...thats called arguing or trolling depending on the context...some borderline trolling going on in here.

Here's the guidelines, read em.

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