I understand what he's saying, the more you alter the height of the head, the more you alter the geometry of the intake.

thank you, sometimes my brain says one thing and i type another, as you deck the heads the V in the intake is to large, therefore you remove material from the intake so it will fit, and to crankshaftkid don't feel sorry for me, your time with age will come also.

sam-missle

I think I understand what you are saying....but you still can machine the intake side of the head instead of machining the intake. Even though you deck the block or mill the heads, and don't change the angles, the angle of the 'V' stays the same. Take for instance, the 440 and the 383 Mopars. Both share the same angles and heads interchange but the 383 is a low deck engine whereas the 440 is a raised deck engine. The intakes for both engines share the same gasket face angles but the 383 intake is much too small to bolt up to the 440. Deck the 440 down to the 383 and the intake from the 383 will fit (but in reality, there's not enough meat on the 440's deck to do that). There's a formular for head milling on Mopars (probably the same for others) but it's been too long since I've looked at it and it's if everything is like it should be from the factory (but I've never found anything from the factory that was perfect such as core shift and CC volumn). It was something like this...for every .010 you take from the deck of the block or head, you need to take .012 from the intake side of the head or from the intake itself. If you change the angles, all that goes out the window....and I'm already old

I agree with alot of the guys here...

The 452 heads are hard to find WITHOUT a crack. The seats were induction hardened and when you grind the seat for bigger valves or even for a re-seat it *could* go through the induction hardening.

The 906 heads have soft seats, no induction hardening from the factory.

The factory gaskets are indeed approx .018 to .020 thinner than a FelPro or other brand composite gasket. Which helps a bit in your case. Milling the intake surface if necessary will correct the intake fit, and shims can be used for rockers on stamped steel rocker engines to restore pushrod fit if needed. (Or adjustable rockers, which can just be adjusted.)

I've seen some intakes from the factory- and some aftermarket manifolds as well- that needed machining to fit stock heads better, and I've seen guys use gaskets for the Maxie engines- composite intake gaskets- used to mount milled intakes on stock unmilled heads.

Just check everything before milling is my best advice, make sure of what you have and what you need as far as proper fit goes...

I've seen more than a few heads wrecked by milling the intake side to match the intake manifold (reduces the width of the valve cover sealing rail). I'd try milling the intake .030" on each side first. Chances are it will be enough to make the manifold fit.

tom

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Ya cain't fix stoopid, but ya kin TAX it!

If I use the heads and the price for everything aint bad (pushrods,milling,etc...) I'll probably mill the intake instead of the heads. I have $450.00 in the heads already. I'm not familiar with motors that much, Is there ANYTHING else that I'll have to do besides milling the intake and switching to shorter pushrods? Do I just use stock head gaskets, valley pan, etc... when done milling. I would assume the machine shop would know approx. how much to mill off from the intake for a decent fit, right? I think I can reuse the head bolts on a 440 can't I?

Most guys are too anal about the ratio of head to intake milling. I've milled many heads .030" without milling the manifold and with minimal alignment problems.

Use the valley pan intake gasket instead of aftermarket fiber types. The fiber types are much thicker and will make your mis-alingment problem worse.

What's just as important as the milling is the valve-tip height. If that is not corrected with the valve seating, the pushrod length can be an issue because of that alone, without the excessive head milling entering the conversation. The proper valve tip protrusion (the distance between the valve tip and the spring seat) should be no more than 2.125" Any competent machinist will have checked and corrected that.

I had a set in my shop that were done elsewhere and the valve tip height was 2.185".


tom

__________________
Ya cain't fix stoopid, but ya kin TAX it!

I agree! I've laid a straight edge across the tops of the valves on B/RB haeds and wondered who the drunk who ground the valves was....


Adjustanle pushrods isn't the ONLY solution, or custom "made to length" pushrods.
I aslo have ran B/RB heads cut .030 with no problems at all on an engine with no rocker/pushrod changes at all. The hydraulic lifters took up the difference. MoPar Performance used to sell rocker shaft shims, it could be another option available if it is needed...?

AMEN to the two posts above! One more time....do a mock up. It's easy to lay the heads on the block with a gasket and then lay the intake on it. You might not have to do very much to get it to fit if anything at all and again, have you confirmed that the heads have actually been milled .060?? If the CC's are still up there, they probably haven't been milled.

BTW, don't be temped to run Crane's Ductile iron adjustable rockers for the Mopar. They are prone to breakage with aftermarket cams with aggresive profiles over .510" valve lift.

tom

__________________
Ya cain't fix stoopid, but ya kin TAX it!

I bought the heads from someone last fall and wanted to have them checked soI just sent the heads to a machine shop and they magnafluxed them and checked them over real well and said they were milled .060