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454 big block build

9K views 29 replies 6 participants last post by  KarmelLuv 
#1 ·
I just acquired a 4 bolt main 454 bare big block. Magd and hot tanked. Looking to spend up to $4,000.00 on the engine. Also want it to be a turbo application. Want at least 600whp. It will be the Saturday street killer. Want to run 10:1 cr with aluminum heads. I don't mind rough idle for quickness.
 
#2 ·
You're budget isn't big enough, the rotating assembly and heads are going to eat at least $3000 of that budget...doesn't leave much for the rest like valvetrain, cam, lifters, oil pump, T-chain set, intake manifold, carb, ignition system, headers, balancer, flexplate, rotating assembly balancing, and all the other stuff like pan, covers, bolts, etc.

$6000 budget alone just to get it up an running, with no turbo.

600 Rear Wheel HP means you need to make 700+ flywheel HP.
 
#3 · (Edited)
Want to run 10:1 cr.
Not with a turbo you don't. Build it 8.0:1 or less and turn up the boost.

Max boost on pump gas at 10.0:1, 4 psi
Max boost on pump gas at 8.0:1, 8 psi
Max boost on pump gas at 6.5:1, 14 psi
Now, of course, if you have alternate high octane fuel, you can put as much boost into the motor as you want, this side of detonation.

To calculate from flywheel hp to RW hp, you have to use some factor of hp loss through the drivetrain. I've always used 25% loss, so if you're wanting 600 at the wheels, you need to make 800 at the flywheel.

Agree with Eric, this mill will cost $8000 to make 800 hp. ($10 per hp)

.
 
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#5 ·
Here is a nice kit 540 with forged parts. Should help a lot. Just make sure you get one that fits your engine and needs he sells a lot of kits one should be right for your needs.

BBC Chevy 540 Assembly Scat 4340 Wiseco 14 5cc Dome 4 500 Pistons 2pc RMS 4340 | eBay

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HCompton....you can't put a 540" kit into a 454 stock block....you can't bore the block to that 4.500" bore size without totally hitting water. 4.350" (.100" overbore) is generally considered max safe bore size for a 454 but should be sonic checked first to be sure the meat is there.... 4.375"(.125" overbore) is sometimes doable but a sonic check here is mandatory before trying to go that far.

The 540 can only be done in the GM 502 block or an aftermarket block, you can't do it with a stock 454 block.
 
#4 ·
I'll be adding part by part and will have a couple hundred to throw at it every 2-3 weeks until it is finished. Could take 2 years but I hope not. My buddy is really good at building and installing turbos. So he will be working with me on that and at huge discount price. So am I looking To put in a 4340 rotating assembly? What cam should I get? I want torque at low and mid rpm so I run away from people when the light turns green.
 
#6 ·
Here is an unbalanced 454 rotating assembly. Scat 1-42005 BB Chevy 454 Competition Rotating Assembly - 8.2:1 Icon Flat Top Pistons | CNC Motorsports | Car Parts | Truck Parts | Competition Engines Depending on what aluminum heads and camshaft you use you can build a 496 rotating assembly pushing 700 hp n.a. I used Edelbrock Performer RPM R- Port heads, the Eagle 4340 forged crank, Eagle H-Beam rods, with -20 Icon Performance pistons, a Crower mechanical roller camshaft, Victor jr intake with a Holley 850 carb. It 's pushing around 620 hp and 600 lbs of torque. Eagle B11012-787 BB Chevy 496 Competition Balanced Rotating Assembly - 9.6:1 Icon Dome Pistons | CNC Motorsports | Car Parts | Truck Parts | Competition Engines I would also get the ESP Armour coating on the crank and rods. You know that you have to use the ARP2000 Rod Bolts. Using parts like these is why building a BBC is not cheap and sends the weak back to the small blocks.
 
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#12 ·
Could someone tell me what these numbers mean? Thank you.

Cam journal - hp 2

Back of eng. - hi perf pa8 also what looks like a backwards 445 then 4 h

Driver side - k20 445 hi perf pass

Pass side - GM 7.4

Then on top of the block near the cylinders someone wrote in permanent marker - 010. 800.
 
#13 ·
Could someone tell me what these numbers mean? Thank you.

Cam journal - hp 2
Foundry core I.D., means nothing to end user.

Back of eng. - hi perf pa8 also what looks like a backwards 445 then 4 h
Same as first answer.

Driver side - k20 445 hi perf pass
Same as first two answers.

Pass side - GM 7.4
General Motors 7.4 liter ; which is 454 cubic inch.




Then on top of the block near the cylinders someone wrote in permanent marker - 010. 800.
I have no idea on those black marks, I can't relate it to anything common on the block
 
#14 ·
Your HP goal is more than attainable(easy) with a boosted BB - probably be able to do it with 14 psi or less. Your budget is the issue.
Are you really sold on the BB?
What are you plans for fuel? Carb, EFI?
For a 'Saturday Street Killer' only the 10:1 compression just isn't needed IMO especially if you're going to use a carb. AT 8-8.5:1 it will be a much safer build. And the loss of HP NA between the 8:1 motor vs. 10:1 is overcome by another 4lbs of boost (which is free BTW:))

Regarding picking parts for the build, I'd highly recommend holding off until you know what fuel system, exhaust system and turbo you'll be using. Especially the cam and pistons so that the compression, overlap, exhaust opening point will work with the turbo you pick.
 
#21 ·
Sounds like I should do the mild engine but boosted. Looking to make high 600hp. Should I build around the turbo I buy? If so can you guys suggest one. I'm putting this all in your hands. Just let me know which parts I need for a complete engine. Going to have $1,000.00 on Friday to buy the first part or parts.
 
#22 ·
If you build a mild 454 with 375-425 HP and 475-500 ft/lbs then a big T4 along the lines of 88mm. Chinese turbos are all you need. Look at either VS racing or ON3 performance. But I have to reiterate, you'd be money ahead with going LS - 5.3 or even 4.8. If you're sticking with the big block then roller cam and rods are going to eat darn near 1/2 your budget and I'll guess you'll be into for a minimum of $5500.

If for some reason you think you need more go than 650 whp, then you'll need either two small T4's turbos or a T6.
 
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#23 ·
You will notice the na build is just outside your budget and should allow for the engine to make more power later on. the only way to do this and stay on budget is buy junk yard running engines and turbo them i would think the 496 late model truck engine with roller cam would be best for this common in the junk yard and cheap enough with ok heads for power just boost it and they will not last but can be replace when they blow pretty cheap. after you blow a few you will see how much boost the motor will take and how to make them live. But i would just build an all out motor.

Ahhh, the 8.1liter LS. Weak link - rods, but it will meet your goals at 6-8psi. These define torque monster and gas guzzler:). Some locals are running these with bolt on blower kits - 700+ wheel ft/lbs at 6 psi.
 
#24 ·
Here is a Scat forged rotating assembly that will have 8.2 compression ratio with a set of 118cc chamber heads. Scat 1-42005BE BB Chevy 454 Competition Balanced Rotating Assembly - 8.2:1 Icon Flat Top Pistons | CNC Motorsports | Car Parts | Truck Parts | Competition Engines or https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-1-42005be/overview/make/chevrolet There is $117 difference but Summit has free shipping. Cylinder heads (cast iron) https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wrl-030620-2/overview/make/chevrolet $1560 Aluminum heads https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pmx-2214/overview/make/chevrolet $1674 Flow rates unknown. I am guessing it will cost about $4000 for parts since you don't have anything but a block. Another 500-600 for machine shop. Then you will need ??? $$$ for the turbo setup.
 
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