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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 06-01-2010, 04:38 PM
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Cutting the head for bigger valves and not doing any port cleanup or bowl blending normally results in a head that flows less than it did in stock form, and even more so if the closed chamber head isn't releived in the chamber around the bore edge side of the intake valve. Port work is needed or the larger valves are a mistake.

The extra intake bolt holes don't matter, they are only present in stock intakes and older (poor flowing)aftermarket aluminum intakes, most modern intakes delete them because they are not really needed.

Is your fuel pump better than just a stock pump?? Are the lines at least 3/8"??

Performer RPM or any similar intake will be good, a Team G or Victor 454-O would also work, the 850 carb is a good size.

Your fuel delivery side(lines, pump, filter) will need to be bigger with E85 due to roughly 20% more demand in volume needed. You also don't really have enough compression ratio to take advantage of E85, 11-1 to almost 13-1 compression is the sweet spot for E85.

I think the whole intake side including the heads intake ports, and the fuel system are a problem, everything is too small.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 06-01-2010, 05:55 PM
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the fuel pump is stock. I haven't checked the fuel line size but it is the original line.

Do you have a ballpark figure on what it would cost to port my heads?
If I have them ported should I also have them milled to bump up my compression?

Provided everything was tuned properly how much horsepower do you think I am losing by having restrictive heads and intake system? 100 or more?

would I be better off just tearing the engine down and starting over with dome pistons and a budget set of aluminum heads?
(I hope not cause I already have a decent amount of money invested)

thanks
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 06-01-2010, 06:46 PM
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you could port the heads yourself. Jegs sell a port and polish kit for 30 bucks.
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/80900/10002/-1
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Old 06-11-2010, 09:08 PM
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Hello all..

I had a knowledgeable friend come over to check out my valve train geometry issues. We checked pushrod length and it was dead on but there is quite a bit of side to side play in the rockers. I mean you can twist them and the roller tip will move probably a 1/4 inch left or right of center. The rockers are fairly new, but cheapo Crane cast aluminum jobs. I'm not sure if I should try a set of Dart adjustable guide plates or a new set of rocker arms or both..what do u all think?

He also checked the valve lash and some of them were way loose. Like 2 or 3 times what they should of been. Besides being hard on parts could the valve lash being that far out of adjustment make u loose much power?
He said he has seen engines down by 100hp on the dyno with bad out of adjustment valve lash.

He also had a used oval port Holley Strip Dominator intake laying around with a 1" 4 hole phenolic spacer. He said I could try it out and see if it was better then my regular Performer (not the RPM version) intake.
I looked it up and it's rpm range is like 4500-8500. Seems like it might be a tad to much. Do you all think it would be worth the effort to bolt it on and try it or should I just skip it and buy a RPM air gap?

thanks
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 06-12-2010, 11:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phatTweaker
Hello all..

I had a knowledgeable friend come over to check out my valve train geometry issues. We checked pushrod length and it was dead on but there is quite a bit of side to side play in the rockers. I mean you can twist them and the roller tip will move probably a 1/4 inch left or right of center.
The guide plates have to match the size of the push rods.

Quote:
The rockers are fairly new, but cheapo Crane cast aluminum jobs. I'm not sure if I should try a set of Dart adjustable guide plates or a new set of rocker arms or both
Those rockers are OK, but the guide plates might not be matching the push rods. When the lifters have leaked down, the rockers will tend to skew more when you twist them by hand than when the lifters are pumped up. When they're pumped up, the p-rods are tightly held and would tend to stay in position better- but the guide plates still need to match the p-rod diameter.

Quote:
He also checked the valve lash and some of them were way loose. Like 2 or 3 times what they should of been. Besides being hard on parts could the valve lash being that far out of adjustment make u loose much power?
Sure, this will cost power. The lift and duration seen at the valve seat is decreased- this is the same as having a much smaller cam.

Quote:
He also had a used oval port Holley Strip Dominator intake laying around with a 1" 4 hole phenolic spacer. He said I could try it out and see if it was better then my regular Performer (not the RPM version) intake.
I looked it up and it's rpm range is like 4500-8500. Seems like it might be a tad to much. Do you all think it would be worth the effort to bolt it on and try it or should I just skip it and buy a RPM air gap?
I'm all about the RPM in your case- the Strip Dominator isn't what you want, IMO.

The troubling thing to me is the loss of adjustment on those valves that have loosened up. Keep a close eye on them to be sure the cam isn't failing.
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Old 06-15-2010, 09:00 PM
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thanks everyone for all your help..I'm still learning as i go.

When I bought my cam I also bought matching comp cams valve train parts (except rockers..they are Crane Energizer) including pushrods and guide plates. They should match, but I'm not sure how to tell for sure. With the valves closed I can wiggle the pushrods a little side to side in the guide plates. Should there be no play between the pushrod and guide plate?

Also is there a way to tell if my cam is going bad, especially on the lobe that had a way loose rocker without pulling the cam?

thanks
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 06-15-2010, 09:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phatTweaker
thanks everyone for all your help..I'm still learning as i go.

When I bought my cam I also bought matching comp cams valve train parts (except rockers..they are Crane Energizer) including pushrods and guide plates. They should match, but I'm not sure how to tell for sure. With the valves closed I can wiggle the pushrods a little side to side in the guide plates. Should there be no play between the pushrod and guide plate?
What you describe is how the p-rods should fit the guides.

Quote:
Also is there a way to tell if my cam is going bad, especially on the lobe that had a way loose rocker without pulling the cam?

thanks
You can mount a dial indicator to check lift and compare it to the cam card. You might be able to use a machinists rule to measure it, if your eyes are good, or the wear is bad.
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Old 09-23-2010, 12:48 PM
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youtube "454 big block chevy in a malibu" my engine is very close to yours, 286h and 294s cams are close in powerband. i have a 110gph electric fuel pump, stock fuel lines, and at the time a 800 holley. i would see if you can borrow a carburetor, your car should be running at least 5 to 6 mph more. tires will make a huge difference. if the cam is ground with no advance, i would advance it 4 degrees. are you sure converter is 3000?
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Old 09-23-2010, 04:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roknroy
youtube "454 big block chevy in a malibu" my engine is very close to yours, 286h and 294s cams are close in powerband. i have a 110gph electric fuel pump, stock fuel lines, and at the time a 800 holley. i would see if you can borrow a carburetor, your car should be running at least 5 to 6 mph more. tires will make a huge difference. if the cam is ground with no advance, i would advance it 4 degrees. are you sure converter is 3000?
That's an awesome sounding engine u have. Nice looking car to.

I'm not 100% sure on the converter stall speed. I know it was at least 3000 though..At least that is what I bought. Whether or not that is what got installed is a different matter. I have since found out that the dude who put my car together had drug probs.
I'm probably going to tear the car apart this winter and redo allot of stuff so I know for sure what I do have.

thanks
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Old 09-24-2010, 08:29 PM
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i appreciate you being open to me. i really just want to help. go through all 3 gears as slow as you can in mph, should be around 20, and stomp the pedal at that point, look at the tach, and that's what your stall speed is. the reason i suggested a carb swap was that my friend's car sounded great, and went 1230s tried someone elses carb and went 1170s. somethings holding back your torque monster! we're gonna figure it out!
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 09-26-2010, 03:24 PM
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I have her in storage now and am saving up some money. Hopefully early next spring I'll start tinkering again.

thanks everyone for all your help
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