[barndweller]

I have a 454 chevy truck with auto zone starter that ate teeth on flexplate, replaced the flexplate and starter won't engage properly after compression exists on engine, in other words after 1st start up. done the shim trick and read the replies to the starter entry, gonna try the front brace install and the gym clip trick, if anyone has other suggestions i'm all ears. I don't know if everybody knows this but the problem with most starters being replaced is when they start to clicking instead of replacing the whole thing you can loosen the bolt that holds the battery cable and turn the bolt 180 degrees and its like new. That's because the contact point on the inside starts out round and then wears down to looking like the letter D, the straight line on the D is the wearpoint and the 180 inverts it.

[Rob Keller]

You have me a bit confused.

Are you still having a problem getting the starter to mesh correctly?

Read this

Are you haveing a elecrtical problem?



R

[barndweller]

yes, sorry for the confusion, I'm going to check the bolt clearance and try the 1/8 clearance for the mesh + the front brace, since it seems to move after 1st crank then start knocking off teeth maybe it's the wrong bolts, i thought it had something to do with the compression. This is the second starter i have had on the truck, it belonged to my nephew and was stolen, when cops returned it he was living in a gated community that won't accomadate vehicles that won't run so he gave the truck to me, after fixing several problems i got it running and after several cranks the problem occured, and seems to be worse since advance starte install, gonna go back to original and will keep everyone posted with progress. The ground cable was bad but I don't think its electrical.

[Rob Keller]

Make sure you have the "Ground Triangle" {thats what I call it}
Ground to the block from Batt.
Ground to frame from Batt.
Ground to Block to Frame.

This insures that there is no grounding problems.

Make sure you have clean terminals & good connections.




R

[barndweller]

I pulled the starter after checking clearance, I put in 2 shims and wrapped the bolts with tape used for duct work because there was a lot of slop between bolt and the hole, I think this slop was what caused the movement after 1st crank. I guess i lucked out with the advance starter, it turned out to be a rebuilt delco so i stuck with it. So far so good with problem, but theres 1 thing i'm confused about and thats the gym clip versus the 1/8 inch spacing, that's 2 gym clips.

[barnym17]

Make sure the store did not give you starter # M3510 vs.#3510 the M3510 takes 10mm shank bolts vs 3/8 shank bolts.This will give you to much slop in the bolt holes as they are slightly larger on the M3510 they look identical.

[Rob Keller]

The Duct tape is not going to last.
See this?



If there is a gap such as this paper clip its the wrong size.


See this?



This is the correct set up. NO SLOP.

You figure the amount of the paper clip times 2 there is no way it will stay in the spot in needs to.




R

[barndweller]

The tape didn't last, after 3 cranks problem returned,gonna go back to advance auto for the 3510, i never knew about the 2 types, thanks

[chino454]

i've been having some of these issues with my big block i had to file my starter down to get it to have the right mesh on the fly i dont know the reason for that but that what i had to do i have 168 thoot fly and i put a starter out of a 98 chevy big block the little starters i cant figure it out im stuck on what to do it makes a nasty noise when i go to start it any help