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Old 12-13-2010, 03:02 PM
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46 banjo in a 31 A v-8

Looking for some tech help.I"m building a 31 4door I got a 46 truck rear drum to drum.Cant get the drums off,do I need a puller? Also are there any spring perches available as I want to use my model A rear spring or some tech on fabrication.Thanx,Webb.

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Old 12-13-2010, 03:28 PM
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I beleive that you will need a puller on those drums and likely there is some corrosion holding you up on the drum removal. Speedway motors has the perches for using the early ford rear springs..

good luck on your project

Sam
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Old 12-14-2010, 06:44 AM
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46 banjo in a31 Av8

Thanx Sam,first build like this for me.Webb.
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Old 12-14-2010, 08:41 AM
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While pullers (very expensive) are made to facilitate the removal of the rear brake drums, it usually is not required. The pullers are used in a similar manner as I have noted below. They are installed and pressure is applied by tightening the threaded stud against the end of the axle shaft. Then using a three pound sledge hammer to sharply rap the end of the stud, the tapered fit is broken loose.

There is also a special axle nut (much cheaper than the puller) available that can be used as outlined below instead of using the castellated nut.

The brake drum is tightened to the rear axle on a taper. There is a square key in the axle that aligns with a keyway in the bore of the drum.

To remove: Jack up one side so that the wheel is slightly off the ground. Back off the brake shoes adjustment. Remove the rear axle nut (it is a castellated nut) and reverse it and re-install it so that the slots are towards the center of the car. Install it so that the flat section of the nut is flush with the end of the threaded portion of the axle. Having it flush is extremely important so that when you rap the end with the sledge hammer the threads are not mushroomed. Using about a three pound sledge, rap the end of the axle/nut sharply to break the tapered fit loose. It will probably take several sharp blows. When it pops loose, remove the nut and the brake drum will slide off. Do not lose the key. There may also be a thin tapered shim. This was often used to space the brake drum away from the backing plate as wear occurred on the taper. When re-installing, torque the axle nut to 145 ft.lbs.
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Old 12-14-2010, 08:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frisco
While pullers (very expensive) are made to facilitate the removal of the rear brake drums, it usually is not required. The pullers are used in a similar manner as I have noted below. They are installed and pressure is applied by tightening the threaded stud against the end of the axle shaft. Then using a three pound sledge hammer to sharply rap the end of the stud, the tapered fit is broken loose.

There is also a special axle nut (much cheaper than the puller) available that can be used as outlined below instead of using the castellated nut.

The brake drum is tightened to the rear axle on a taper. There is a square key in the axle that aligns with a keyway in the bore of the drum.

To remove: Jack up one side so that the wheel is slightly off the ground. Back off the brake shoes adjustment. Remove the rear axle nut (it is a castellated nut) and reverse it and re-install it so that the slots are towards the center of the car. Install it so that the flat section of the nut is flush with the end of the threaded portion of the axle. Having it flush is extremely important so that when you rap the end with the sledge hammer the threads are not mushroomed. Using about a three pound sledge, rap the end of the axle/nut sharply to break the tapered fit loose. It will probably take several sharp blows. When it pops loose, remove the nut and the brake drum will slide off. Do not lose the key. There may also be a thin tapered shim. This was often used to space the brake drum away from the backing plate as wear occurred on the taper. When re-installing, torque the axle nut to 145 ft.lbs.
Ahhhh glad you found that - I looked for a decent write up as that is the only method I ever used.

The only thing I could add is to spray a little P-B Blaster or similar penetrant 24-48 hours before - then whang it.

One question to the OP - why are you using this particular diff. ? I understand about the springs and open drive shaft. It just wont absorb much additional horsepower if you are doing anything but a warm flat head. Curiosity only, not a criticism

Dave W
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Old 12-15-2010, 06:51 AM
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46 banjo in model A

Thanx Frisco and Dave.Yes I"m using a 51 merc flathead 3spd w/ od.I might look into a gm t-5,not sure yet.Still slowly progressing on body&frame work.Webb.
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Old 12-15-2010, 08:06 AM
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Webb - good luck with the build. What are you doing with that motor? And as far as the OD - if it's an old Ford, from experience -they are tender. I totally blew the bottom off one as well as destroyed several others internally. But "way back then", they were cheap. That T-5 (or even a top loader) sounds like a better idea. Of course, that's only personal opinion (and ancient experiences)

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Old 12-16-2010, 06:38 AM
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Dave , I"m thankful for any and all ancient experience.I do have 2 trans but would really like to use a top load or t-5.Just looks better than side shift,Thanx.
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