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Old 04-11-2008, 07:13 PM
Guy Hiltz's Avatar
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468 Big Block Chevy

I have my project posted here :
Motor's Coming Out.......
But since the end is getting closer,I think a new thread is in order.
The machine work is all done,parts are all in,or most of them anyhow,now the tedious work begins.
I spent several hours yesterday cleaning the block thourghly,wiped the cylinders down with thinner,and put a light coat of "Red Rust Check" oil on them.
Today I taped the block and put a coat of POR 15 Chevy orange on,and the Milodon High Volume water pump and stock timing cover got done as well.
The Brodix RaceRite heads got 2 coats of spray can paint for a base,after it dries POR 15 will be going on the heads as well.The block,water pump & timing cover already had a good coat of paint on them,so I painted the POR 15 over top of it.
Heres a few pictures.
Guy




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Old 04-11-2008, 09:39 PM
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I just read your other post and got filled in on your project. I'd have to say that your car is a LOT of fun to drive!
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Old 04-12-2008, 08:01 AM
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nice car, how did you manage the big block swap kit or custom? and what kind of axle are you running all of this too?

In the other thread what do you mean when you say an original 4+1 transmission? because unless you got your car from Mexico, the g body Monte Carlo never had a standard transmission...even though it should have. congratulations on being one of the few and the proud with a clutch pedal in their Monte Carlo.
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Old 04-12-2008, 01:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leldai73
nice car, how did you manage the big block swap kit or custom? and what kind of axle are you running all of this too?

In the other thread what do you mean when you say an original 4+1 transmission? because unless you got your car from Mexico, the g body Monte Carlo never had a standard transmission...even though it should have. congratulations on being one of the few and the proud with a clutch pedal in their Monte Carlo.

I sad it has an original Doug Nash 4+1 5 speed,this is an aftermarket trans,now sold by Richmond Gear.The big block was in the car when I bought it,thats why I bought it LOL
Its got a Ford 9 inch rearend.
Guy
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Old 04-13-2008, 03:34 PM
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Got a bit more done today,the block,heads,water pump,timing cover and bellhousing all have 2 coats of POR 15 on them,this paint looks real nice so far.The cam was lubed up and installed,the crank was laid in also.I plastigaged the main journal clearances,all were 0.003,the crank end play was 0.006.The main caps are all torqued to specs,Permatex Ultra Slick is being used for assembly lube,and ARP assembly lube was used on the main bolts.The timing chain & gears on on,lined up at 0 degrees.I have also been polishing the exterior of my new Weiand Stealth intake.
Guy




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Old 04-13-2008, 06:59 PM
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turnign out real nice! i just read your hole other project post the other day so now im all caught up on ur project.i wish i could just stick my 80 malibu in the garage and do a whole engine overhaul. keep posting those pictures. about that POR 15, is that spray on or brush/roller? looks like it goes on pretty thick and makes the rough texture of the bare block smoother. i like the way it looks.
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Old 04-15-2008, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by malibus~most~wanted
turnign out real nice! i just read your hole other project post the other day so now im all caught up on ur project.i wish i could just stick my 80 malibu in the garage and do a whole engine overhaul. keep posting those pictures. about that POR 15, is that spray on or brush/roller? looks like it goes on pretty thick and makes the rough texture of the bare block smoother. i like the way it looks.
The POR 15 is a brush on paint,it looks really good.
I got a bit more done today,mostly just measurements.The cam was degreed,installed straight up it was right on at 108 degrees on the intake center line.The deck height checked out at 0.005,exactly where I had asked for it.With a 0.039 thick gasket,this gives me a quench of 0.044,and a compression ratio of 10.0:1,hopefully this will be very pump gas friendly.I was quite concerned about piston to valve clearance because I was told that with the SpeedPro/TRW L2465 pistons and the Brodix RR heads with 2.25 inch intake valves,there would not be enough clearance.Using the clay method,2 0.019 thick steel shim gaskets and 0 lash gave me clearances of .090 on the intake side and 0.100 on the exhaust,so add in the lash @ 0.018 and this gives me 0.108 & 0.118 in/ex p-v clearance.This was done with the springs I am using installed on the heads,I was quite relieved to find I had sufficient p-v clearance.I only had time to check one ring gap,and it was at 0.020,right where its supposed to be.Heres a few pictures.




Guy
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Old 04-15-2008, 08:10 PM
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This is my idea of a grocery getter. Nice. What cam are you using? Do they give tickets where you drive this thing?
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Old 04-16-2008, 06:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stroke
This is my idea of a grocery getter. Nice. What cam are you using? Do they give tickets where you drive this thing?
Yes they give tickets here,but if you know the back roads and dont act a fool,you're usually good to go
As for the cam,its a custom grind solid roller from Custom Camshaft Co.
Duration @ 0.050 is 243/249 in/ex,and .668 lift,on a 112 degree LSA
The springs are a Comp peice made by PAC,# 26075,575 lbs open @ 1.250,256 lbs seat pressure @ 1.900.
Guy
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Old 04-16-2008, 10:21 AM
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You shouldn't really put too much assembly lube on a roller cam, it is actually the opposite of a flat tappet, you don't want assembly lube on the rollers because they can stick a bit and wear the cam prematurely, just a little light oil on the lobes and let the oil running down the lifter valley do the rest. I know you already have it in but I would recommend wiping some of that sticky lube off of the cam lobes.

One thing I always do on my BBC's is to clear out the casting flash around the areas where the oil pours down on the cam. It is probably too late but if you have to take it apart and have it cleaned for any reason you may want to consider it.

I see you smoothed out the rest of the lifter valley...Good thinking
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Old 04-16-2008, 01:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Double_v23
You shouldn't really put too much assembly lube on a roller cam, it is actually the opposite of a flat tappet, you don't want assembly lube on the rollers because they can stick a bit and wear the cam prematurely, just a little light oil on the lobes and let the oil running down the lifter valley do the rest. I know you already have it in but I would recommend wiping some of that sticky lube off of the cam lobes.

One thing I always do on my BBC's is to clear out the casting flash around the areas where the oil pours down on the cam. It is probably too late but if you have to take it apart and have it cleaned for any reason you may want to consider it.

I see you smoothed out the rest of the lifter valley...Good thinking

Any assembly lube will probably run off quite a bit,it will be on there for a couple of weeks,and they are getting turned over quite a bit with the checking I am doing.I already ground off the casting flash around the areas you mentioned,so I am hoping that everything will be good to go !!

Guy
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Old 04-16-2008, 01:52 PM
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Oh yeah, if it is going to be on there that long you should be good to go!!
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Old 04-16-2008, 03:20 PM
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nice looking engine!

a few comments, if you don't mind.

should be ok with pump gas with that cr, cam, and heads.

I don't like that intake for your engine. you could find a better match for that cam and head combo.

The biggest problem is with the 0.003 clearance on the mains. I think you will have low oil pressure at idle with that much clearance in a BBC. 0.002" rods and mains with 0.003" on the rear main would be better. However, a solid roller doesn't need as much oil to the top end so you should be ok. But expect the oil pressure to drop a lot when the engine warms up.
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Old 04-16-2008, 03:50 PM
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Guy,
(a comment)

you didn't give cleaning "details" so:
if you didn't clean that block...every last passage....with atleast soap and water and scrub with baby bottle/gun/etc brushes...and turn it over every which way when you blast rinse with a hose and then dry with high pressure air...to remove all the metal machining grime....

you are at risk to score the cylinder walls and bearings when you crank it up!

motor looks good!
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Old 04-17-2008, 06:39 AM
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Thanks for all the comments everyone.I checked with the machine shop that did my machine work and they felt that the 0.003 main clearance was ideal,they race big blocks & build pro engines for customers from all over the world.I am also going to be using a new Mellings Select Series HV oil pump with anti cav slots and a stock spring.I picked the Weiand Stealth dual plane intake because it seems to be an almost perfect match for my combo,everything should peak at 6500-6800 RPM,and I had heard of people being very pleased with the Stealth.As for cleaning,oh yeah,everything got brushed,washed,and blown out really good.I used lots of hot soapy water and lots of hot water to rinse with.I also used something I learnt off of this forum,I wiped the cylinder bores down with thinner and a lint free rag,and there was indeed some grey residue on the rag after wiping them.I also wipe the journals and bearings with thinner before they get assembled,this seems to get those parts nice & clean.I've still got a lot of work ahead of me,but I'm not in a big hurry.

Guy
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