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47 nash help
need help finding a wiring diagram and or firewall map for a 1947 nash ambassador series 4760 straight 6 6 volt positive ground system.
Wiring was a mess when I got the car chased and rewired what I could but now car is worse off then before. car would try to turn over, would try faster without compression, horn worked and dome light and key light worked, I rewired still worked, someone suggested that one of the loose wires hanging from bottom of distributor should be hooked up to my one "post" ignition coil (internal resisted I think) so I tried it and nothing worked wouldn't even try to turn over. so I hooked coil up the way it was, left loose wire to hang where it was and now it still will not do anything. Some lights work, horn wires have power when tested with test light, but horn will not honk. need help, can't get new "bullet conectors" to fit in old "holes". I broke a piece have no idea what the name of it is, it's on the firewall, hooked to carb and gas pedal and has four wires on it. This is my first project car on my own and older than anyone I know has worked on. need help, wiring diagram firewall map anything to do with wires electrical system. even after reading the manual I do not fully understand the positive ground thing either. Please don't laugh. I really just need help. |
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Hi, I have a wiring diagram for that car around here somewhere, But I'll need to do some digging to find it.
I wouldn't expect there to be more than one wire coming from the distributor unless maybe there is/was an electric overdrive. Since the car is positive ground, the distributor wire should go to the "+" terminal on the ignition coil. The "-" coil terminal should be wired to key on power (no ballast resistor necessary on a 6 volt system). Bullet connectors come in three sizes: The most common size is .156" The least common size is .176" The .180" size was common on old Ford products I get these connectors here and here. I'll get back to you on that wiring diagram when I get a chance to look for it, unless somebody beats me to it. Good luck... |
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First of all the positive ground thing. The main difference be + & - ground is the direction of electron flow thru the circuit. It doesn't matter except for DC motor rotation and possibly guage operation. All the motors and guages on that car will be already designed for correct rotation. Just think of the - wire as the HOT wire. And the + cables as the ground.
Here are some things you need to before hacking at the wiring. Approach the wiring by system. eg; starter system, ignition system etc. The basics are the same in all cars. Read up on them to get familiar with how these systems work. Depending on your level of understanding you may want to study basic electrical theory. Armed with this knowledge your 85% there. Charge the battery. The 6 volt system, more so than a 12 volt system, is not happy with bad connections. Make sure all connections are good. Disassemble, clean, reassemble. Remove battery cables and clean. Check the grounds. One cable from the battery + to the chassis and at least one cable from the chassis to the engine. Check the cable from the battery - to the starter. If any of the heavy cables from the battery look corroded or nasty, replace them. The wire that is connected to the starter stud (battery -) is the main power feed wire. It will power the fuse block. One more wire will be connected to the starter. This is the control wire that makes the starter engage. It connects to the starter switch (ignition). I'm not sure how NASH arranged the start switch. Some cars used a button or a foot switch for a start switch. This is connection point (on the starter) where you can jumper the starter. Get all that done. Get the engine cranking over. A heavy duty battery charger will help a lot. Connect the ignition system as described above. Get a test light and see if the have power at the coil - stud. Remove the spark plugs and dump a little light oil in the openings. Crank it over without the plugs loosen up the thing. let us know how you make out. vicrod |
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Thank you so much, I have looked online for a month now and nothing, closest thing was a ford tractor. this will be super helpful. a thousand times over thank you!!!!!!!!! I'll keep ya'll posted on how it does.
Sarah
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Thanks everyone for all the suggestions.
I kind of dove into the electric just hate having the thing sit there and rot while I try to find info on it. I took plugs out and oiled already cranked much faster without compression (plugs in place) My coil does not read on a meter so I'm chasing one down now. battery is new and charged but conecctions are a bit funky. have test light and lil bro lets me borrow his fancy voltage reader. Again thanks for all the suggestions I will get right on and keep you all posted Thanks a million. |
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