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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 06-26-2007, 09:09 PM
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Got my S-10 frame today. The guy owed me $150.00 for work I did for him. He said he will get me a S-10 frame for doing the work. I didn't think he could get me a frame for that cheep. His son is a manager at a junk yard. He had to pay $300.00 for it. It's still a really great deal. I had to pay him only $150.00 for the frame. He paid the other $150.00. That's what he owed me. Check out what I got for $150.00.







It's a 122" frame so I'll have to cut it. No big deal. I stuck the center console between the Acura buckets I already had. Fits perfect. I'll use the master cylinder,power brake unit, pedals, parking foot brake, and anything else I could think of. I already have a Cutlass tilt column, 350 Chevy engine, power steering pump,Billet gas pedal and linkage, A chrome 4-link and lots of air bag parts. I have a extra 56 Chevy dash insert with a billet center for 2 gages. One speedo, and a quad gage. I'm going to fab it to the Stude dash. All I need now is a 700r-4 and build a drive shaft. I can't wait to get started. First have to sell all the parts I don't need. I should make money on this deal.

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 06-27-2007, 01:50 AM
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Now that is a great deal for $300!!! Just the wheels and tires are worth that. You may be able to sell the body - at least the door and windows and windshield from it and possibly the dash, steering wheel and air bar. Looks like you are well on your way to a zero dollar frame and get the $150 for the work you did. Good luck with your project. Lots of members are wondering how to use those S10 frames under different make and year of projects. Why not start a project journal so we can all see how that Stude body fits the frame and how you accomplish the remainder of the truck.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 06-27-2007, 07:57 AM
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Dennis,

Now, that's a deal.

All we usually get is just the rolling chassis, not the cab and interior like that. The cab alone with the passenger door is well worth what that cost on resale.

It looks like you're well on your way to a relatively smooth project build. Cutting the frame on the S10's is pretty straight forward. They give you a seamed area to work with right behind the tranny mount area.
A sectioning job on them leaves a nice clean "stock look" when you're done.

Right now I'm welding in rectangular tubing building a crossmember/trans mount, and finishing up the lower flooring framework for my coupe.
I tore out some of my older efforts to re-do it, because I came up with a better plan.

Probably like most guys here, I'm fussy as hell, so if I'm not totally happy with the end product......it's a do-over.

I added a photo of how I normally get the "rolling chassis". This chassis was the one I got for my coupe a few years back. Back then I had a dirt floor 2 car garage, that I soon poured a floor in. That became too small, too quick, so I built my 30X40 - 3 door shop like you did. Man, no sooner did that get completed and my wife had most of our junk going over there.......geeze, I can't win.....

I hated working in cramped places, and I put the coupe on the "back burner" until I could get more room. Now that I got it, it seems like the clutter follow's me. I got too much "stuff" and I need to have a yard sale I guess.
I posted few old thumbnails to show when I "mated" my frame up to my body....not very professional looking, but you'll get the idea.

Anyway, keep us posted on your progress Dennis...nice start !

Take care,
Bob
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 06-27-2007, 08:59 AM
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I always take pictures of everything I do. I'll keep you guys updated. Maybe I will start a project journal. I also have a Smugmug web site that I update all the time. Check it out. http://belair.smugmug.com/gallery/2890764
I noticed the seam on the frame after I pressure washed it. Perfect place to cut it. I'll have to start selling all the extra parts. The ABS unit should be worth a lot along with everything else. I defendantly will make money on this deal. My wife squawked at the $150.00 until I told her how much money I could make with the parts I don't need. She pays the bills this weekend. That's why she squawked. Moneys tight.

Bob you have to kick your wifes stuff out of there. My shop is all mine. She has the house garage to put her stuff. Plus I made her a bigger master closet. I'm so good to her.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 06-27-2007, 09:35 AM
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HAHAHA..........

Dennis....I tried that......even though, stuff still secretly migrated over to my new shop.......almost like mold growing

Now that my stepson is starting to drive, and is getting a car soon, the 2 car garage is going to be for him and his mom's vehicle...........I kinda get the feeling that I'm being pushed out of the family unit

Well, I started my project under pretty meager conditions, and I felt that I needed a new place to work in. Now that I got it, it still seems small......but, it'll do just fine. I just have to clean house......I get to be a "Clutter King" pretty easily......never throw anything away....
I guess I gotta start......

On another note, I'm in the process of getting a new mig. I had obtained a brand new Craftsman/Century as a freebie back about 2 or 3 yrs. ago, and although it's a low budget welder, it was free......and brand new.
(Yeah....after using it, now I know why it was free)
It's been a spotty, skippy pain in the butt, and coming from a welding family (father, brother's and I all), I get the harassment when I complain about it.

"You should'a bought a Lincoln !".......yadda, yadda....

Well, like I said, it was free for work I had done, so I took it. It worked pretty well at first, but now it's "on & off".....I've tried everything...cleaning this & that, replacing liner's, tips & wire, etc. etc.
Just sick & tired of messing with it and getting crappy welds when it acts up. I bought a Hobart AC/DC stick unit (I'm an old school stick welder) for heavy stuff about a year or so ago, and with 3/32 rod, I've been welding up much of the lighter frame work.
Soon I'll be needing the mig for the sheet work, so I guess I'll have to do some quick footwork.......

I like the Miller's/Hobart/Weldmarks (all same manuf.), but since my family is "pro-Lincoln", I'm sure I'll take heat on that choice. Cash is low now, but I guess I can do some horse trading.

PS-Hope to be reading more about your endeavors on the framing project.....

Take care,
Bob
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 07-09-2007, 04:36 PM
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been following you. sounds like you have little way to go, but thats the fun of project. i finally got the codes cleared up on the 76 pinto with the 2.3 turbo but i`ve still got a ways to go to. i`ll follow your thread , dad
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 07-17-2007, 08:33 PM
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Just sat the body on the S-10 frame.



had to cut the rear of the body to get it to sit down over the rails



I laided the Acura buckets, and the S-10 console in there to see how they look.

I love it. Can't wait to drive it

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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 07-23-2007, 06:21 PM
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sorry been gone

well on the 47 starlight. the frame is done and it has a350 motor & trans the body is back on the headers are for a 89 s10 motor swap and work well the steering is all hooked up the booster is on the fire wall i got a 15 gallon fuel cell from the part store and put it in the trunk i also got a painless wiring harness for chevy steering column. I"m glade theirs a lot of talk about the s10 frames. this doing the work is the easy part. the keeping up with thread is new to me pease out
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 07-23-2007, 08:44 PM
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Here's another S-10 frame going under a 37 Plymouth Truck. This one might be a little tricker. The truck body is too narrow by 10". Either narrow the frame or widen the truck. My son just bought it. I'll keep you updated on this one too.

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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2007, 04:29 AM
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Dennis,

That frame almost looks like it was made for the Studie'. Most times the S10 frames are pretty close, both in wheelbase, and in body mounting.

Your son's Plymouth looks almost about 32-34' "Ford like" in size. Yeah, I think I can imagine how that fit would be.
I haven't had to do one (yet), meaning narrow the frame, but guessing, I'd probably just remove everything down to the frame rails, and start from scratch.
The crossmember would probably be the big deal in the whole thing, I'd think....

Good goin'

Bob
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2007, 09:08 AM
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I think my son should use the stock frame. Box it and put a Mustang front end on it. He wants to use the KP Components 7 link that hes has for a S-10. I know he could modify that to fit the Plymouth's frame. That would be easer than narrowing the frame or widening the S-10 frame. He has more money than I do to get his done. I have a slight head start. I'm trying to use what ever I have, or best deals I could get.

After I put the Stude body & bed on the S-10 frame, I saw the 56 Chevy wheels won't work. The off set is too deep, and too narrow. I need a 10" rim with a shorter offset. It will be even worse after I widen the bed 2". So far I have the fenders mounted on the bed, and the bed moved in place to center the wheels in the wheel well. Next I will cut some mounts off the frame so I could move the body forward, and mount the front end. Then I'll measure how much to cut out of the middle, and have the wheels correctly in the center of the wheel wells front and rear. All I need now is time to do it. Just when I need it my plasma cutter took a crap.
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 07-25-2007, 07:56 AM
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If I'm reading you right, I think your having problems with the rear axle spacing in relation to the wheels you want to use.....?

If you need a wider axle to fit, don't forget that the S10 4X4's had a wider rear axle that was 4 inches longer than the one you have now. It's a direct bolt in.

That said, it was a 7.5" rear in most cases, but I'm not sure about all. If you wanted something heavier, you can use an 8.5" rear out of an SR2 Blazer, or an early 70's Nova or Camaro.
I'm using a 1973 Nova 8.5" posi rear in my coupe, and I'd think that it'd fit well,....... like I said, if I'm reading you right. Most vehicle's of that era need a wider rear axle than came stock with the S10's, and the Nova's and Camaro's were very close to perfect in width.
The 4X4 axles were about the same width, more or less, but like I said, were lighter with the 7.5 ring gear.

As far as cutting the S10's to fit given wheelbases, they were almost designed to do it from the factory. I cut them (if need be), right at the joint where the front clip is welded to the frame rails. All I do is grind off the welded joint and hammer the two pieces apart. Sometimes a little tug with my garden tractor, or a come along, and they fall away.

As far as the plasma cutter dying on you...go figure.....that's always the case isn't it ?
At least you had one.....I'm still using the old "smoke wrench" and grinder. I can't get the cash together to get a plasma cutter. Everytime I try, something else comes up that takes precedence.

Good post.......

Bob
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 07-25-2007, 08:59 AM
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Bob,

The rear axle isn't a problem. The off set of the 56 Chevy wheels is clearing the frame OK. The Stude bed is hitting the top of the tires. When I widen the bed it will be even worse. Simple fix is different offset wheels. Besides the wheels are setting in way to far from the fender well. I'll put some 10X20" wheels on it. Colorado Custom's has a wheel that looks like a 57 Caddy hubcap. I want to keep more in theme, and not look too new for the truck. This is what it looks like.


or this one


I like these wheels, but they are a little pricey. I'm not set up with Colorado Customs, but I am a Intro Wheel Dealer. I wish they made a wheel that looks like the 57 Caddy hubcap. I might have to pick one I like from Intro.
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 07-25-2007, 09:34 AM
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Oh, ........gotcha.....

Yeah, those wheels have a nice finished look to them. I don't think I could swing the money on the Colorado Customs stuff. Most of the time I end up with American Racing, Weld, or something of the like....

I keep my eye open for old wheels at garage sales and stuff locally. Last year I picked up a set of Western slotted rims that are of the old Ansen designs from years ago. I got the wider 10" rears, with the 7-8" fronts for $75. They're flawless and no corrosion. A good polish up, and maybe some Zoop's clear, and they'll look very pretty.

2 years ago I found a set of old 50's-60's Torkers that were sitting in a guys garage (following a divorce), and his ex-wife parted with them for $100. All four.....nice.

Setting up the wheels and axles to accomodate the new body is always the fun part, right ?

Bob
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 07-25-2007, 01:39 PM
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Yea, but when done right, it's so rewarding. I'm sticking with 20's. If anything I'll go with polished Torque Thrust ll wheels. That's a long way off. I have to constraint on getting it running. I know the measurements of the wheels and tires. So when I wheel tub it I'll know where to put them. First is cutting the frame, and mounting the cab & bed as soon as I have time.
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