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Old 08-09-2009, 01:14 PM
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48 ford brake problem

I have recently purchased a rod with 48 ford fronts and dodge 8.5 rear drums. dual master, but the pedal has to be pumped to get even a bit of braking, I have bled and rebled, no air in the lines, 10 lb residual in the front line, none in the rear. It does seem to be moving enough fluid. Any suggestions or comments on the type of master I should be using?

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Old 08-10-2009, 09:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greyrodder
I have recently purchased a rod with 48 ford fronts and dodge 8.5 rear drums. dual master, but the pedal has to be pumped to get even a bit of braking, I have bled and rebled, no air in the lines, 10 lb residual in the front line, none in the rear. It does seem to be moving enough fluid. Any suggestions or comments on the type of master I should be using?

thanks,
If the master cylinder is mounted under the floor; you will need an additional 10 lb. residual valve in the rear line.

Adjust the master cylinder pushrod so that there is a minimum amount of play in the brake pedal before any movement of the master cylinder piston. You must have some play. About 1/4"-1/2" at the pedal top should be good.

Since you have drum brakes all around, you must have the brakes adjusted correctly to get a "good" pedal. Jack the car up so the wheels are off the ground and can be spun by hand. Tighten the adjusters down until you can no longer spin the wheel. Back the adjuster off just enough so that you can spin the wheel and there is a slight "drag". Repeat for the rest of the wheels.
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Old 08-10-2009, 09:53 AM
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brakes

the stock ford brakes with the 2 bottom anchor bolts have very little self energizing effect while the rears of the more modern design will have more... hard to get a good brake feel... If you want to stay with drums think about upgrading the fronts to early econoline or early 50's pickup.lincoln I beam brakes are a bit expensive usually. I bought a hay wagon with the lincoln I beam for $ 25.. most swap meet sellers want $ 2-300 for them. a disc conversin doesn't cost much more than a rebuild of the originals.
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Old 08-10-2009, 09:03 PM
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48 ford brake problem

thanks for the replies, my master is mounted on the firewall and the brakes have been adjusted for drag, my problem is that I don't understand why there is a 10 lb check valvle used at all and so I was wondering if that might be part of the problem, to get any brakes I have to pump 6 or 7 times even then I think only the fronts are coming on. It should be simple but for some reason or other I am jinxed when it comes to brakes. I am wondering if the master is screwed, one of the local wrenches suggested that the internal proportioning valve rubber in the master may have turned inside out but I havn't looked at that yet. I'm still hung up on why there is only one check valve and why I should have one at all on this type of set up.
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Old 08-13-2009, 12:56 PM
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master?

If the MC is for drum - drum brakes it should have residuals built in , and you shuold bot need any external RPVs.
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Old 08-16-2009, 08:28 AM
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48 ford brake problem

thanks for the advice but turns out it was the master cylinder. put on a new one and brakes appear to be fine.
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