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Old 07-24-2008, 11:32 PM
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496 bbc questions

hello

i have a few question about building a 496 stroker from a 454.
i have a fresh from the machine shop .060 over 454 casting #14015445 and a eagle forged 4.25 stroke crank and speed pro flat top pistons. i was wondering what the best rod length to use would be? i don't have heads yet but would like some Brodix aluminum heads and im shooting for a 8.0:1 but 8.5:1 max compression ratio.

im also wondering what you guys who have built 496's had to do to the block to get every thing to clear. i was told that with a 4.25 stroke it would not be a problem. i have a stock c3 big block corvette oil pan as its the only one i can find that will work with the car.

i guess that's it unless you have some advise for me as this is my first stroker build.

thanks

steven

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Old 07-25-2008, 01:40 AM
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i forgot to say im useing a comp cam 11-405-5. all arp studs, i think a 6.385 rod length would be best from my searching but i thought i should ask te experts to make sure. i listed all the internals to make sure they will work well in my 496 and let the engine builders point out any flaws in my plan.
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Old 07-25-2008, 03:31 AM
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Are the Speed-Pro pistons for a 4.25" stroke and 6.385" rod? You can't just pick a rod length out of thin air and have it work .
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Old 07-25-2008, 07:31 AM
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Yeah I agree, You are stuck with whatever rod length the pistons are designed for.

If they are for a 454 (4.000 stroke) then you might as well send them back.

If they are for a 6.135 rod you might as well send them back.

This will cause a problem if you had the block matched to the pistons you may have to order .080 or .100 over pistons. On the bright side you will have a 502 or 505 stroker then.

With the forged eagle crank you have to use at least a 6.385 rod otherwise the piston skirts on most pistons will hit the counterweight on the crank at bottom dead center. (unless you have pistons with short skirts which may cause the piston to "rock" excessively)

Here are some photos of what I had to do to clearance my block using the same crank as you and some H-Beam rods with ARP Cap screws. (if you go this route order the ones with the short caps)

One pic is of the oil pan rail and one pic is the bottom of the cylinder. This needed to be done on every cylinder. Make sure you leave .080 clearance between the rod and the block.
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