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496 opinions

2K views 12 replies 7 participants last post by  66GMC 
#1 ·
I am about to purchase this motor and was wondering what you guys thought and what kind of hp I will get out of it? This is the info on the motor. G.M. BLOCK, SHOT BLASTED, HOT TANKED, MAGNAFLUXED AND PRESSURE TESTED, BILLET CENTER CAPS AND ARP STUDS, LINE BORED, ZERO DECKED PARRALELL TO CRANKSHAFT CENTERLINE

CRANKSHAFT SPECIALIST 4340 FORGED INTERNAL BAL CRANK

4340 FORGED H BEAM RODS 6.535 LENGTH

WIESCO FORGED ALUMINUM PISTONS, .250 DOME

SPEED PRO HELLFIRE RINGS

CLEVITE BEARINGS

MELLING SELECT HIGH VOLUME RACE OIL PUMP

MANLEY TRUE ROLLER TIMING WITH TORRINGTON BEARING THRUST WASHER

HOWARDS SOLID ROLLER CAMSHAFT

CRANE ROLLER LIFTERS

SFI BALANCER

NEW WORLD MERLIN III HEADS, 2.3 IN 1.8 EXH STAINLESS SEVERE DUTY VALVE, NEW VALVE SPRINGS, NEW 10 DEG STEEL RETAINERS AND LOCKS, NEW JESEL SHAFT ROCKERS, NEW ONE PIECE HARDEND PUSHRODS ,

EDELBROCK SUPER VICTOR INTAKE

B & B DRAG RACE OIL PAN

ARP HEAD STUDS

ICS TITAN COPPER HEAD GASKETS
 
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#2 ·
There is no way nobody here can tell you what the power level will be, the info you give is far too sketchy.
Complete cam profile is needed, lift, duration, etc.
Compression ratio.
Head flow numbers.
Which carb? Dominator?
With the little info we have trying to tell you the power it makes would be shooting in the dark.
 
#3 ·
DoubleVision said:
There is no way nobody here can tell you what the power level will be, the info you give is far too sketchy.
Complete cam profile is needed, lift, duration, etc.
Compression ratio.
Head flow numbers.
Which carb? Dominator?
With the little info we have trying to tell you the power it makes would be shooting in the dark.
Sorry, about that. I copied and pasted. I thought all the info was there. I'll try to get the info.
 
#4 ·
Took me a bit. I decided to go with a diff set up. Still a 496 though-Compression 10.4:1- Heads 320cc 2.250-1.880-Manifold Elde air gap rect port-Cam Comp Thumper Hydraulic flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range 2,000-5,900
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift 235
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift 249
Duration at 050 inch Lift 235 int./249 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration 287
Advertised Exhaust Duration 304
Advertised Duration 287 int./304 exh.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.510 int./0.495 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees) 107
Quick fuel 750
 
#6 ·
FmrStrtracer said:
Few more questions, what do you want from this motor(street, Street/strip), how do you want it to perform, whats it going into, what trans, and gears.
I'm trying to build a mean pro streeter 69 chevelle street/strip car. I found a new 496 dyno'd at 630hp that I just purchased. Ive got a built turbo 350 that I may change to a built Turbo 400. It has a 12 bolt posi in the rear with 4.11's. I'm not going to gut the inside of the car, but there will be some customizing going on. Can't wait to get it finished! :thumbup:
 
#8 ·
F-BIRD'88 said:
Ya you put that poser bunny rabbit cam in that 600+hp motor. AND GIVE UP 200 HP... :smash: :smash: :smash: Get a grip.
Lol! I decided to purchase it from my buddy at his machine shop it was built for a customer that could'nt come up with the rest of the cash, so after months of sitting there he came off of it yesterday. he mentioned a carb and cam change, I'm just not sure yet which cam and carb I would like to go with since it will be on the street on the weekends here and there. 200hp extra what the :eek: . Perfect Grocery getter!
 
#10 ·
396chevelle,
Install C-clip eliminators in the diff. Use the 400 trans. Install an SFI-legal driveshaft loop within 6" of the front universal joint. Any further back will be illegal. Can be welded in or bolted in, your choice. 360 degree loops are used because you don't know which way the driveshaft will go when the joint breaks. They have been known to auger up through the floor and attack the driver's or passenger's hip and leg.

Normally on this type of forum, the main group of participants will be 50-60 years old, with lesser numbers of both younger and older enthusiasts filling up the board. Us older guys grew up when you had to have the knowledge to do stuff yourself. Many of us didn't have access to sophisicated machinery or techniques, so we fixed 'em and modified 'em until we achieved the performance increases we were seeking.

We passed knowledge among ourselves about what components worked better. If a certain camshaft made power in the range where we needed it, then that's the cam we ran. It didn't matter much whether it was lumpy or not, that was not one of the considerations to choosing a camshaft back then. We were hotrodders looking for the quickest and fastest combination.

Today, you can build a complete car from scratch with a credit card and the youngsters seem to care more about what the cam sounds like rather than using a cam that makes the most power in a range where you can use it.

That sort of makes us old guys feel like some of you current generation of rodders are posers instead of enthusiasts. Maybe we should identify another class of competition, Poserod. You guys could have a idling competition. Winner gets a kiss from the Poserod Queen, Jeff, a cheezy trophy and a box of candy bars.
 
#12 ·
techinspector1 said:
396chevelle,
Install C-clip eliminators in the diff. Use the 400 trans. Install an SFI-legal driveshaft loop within 6" of the front universal joint. Any further back will be illegal. Can be welded in or bolted in, your choice. 360 degree loops are used because you don't know which way the driveshaft will go when the joint breaks. They have been known to auger up through the floor and attack the driver's or passenger's hip and leg.

Normally on this type of forum, the main group of participants will be 50-60 years old, with lesser numbers of both younger and older enthusiasts filling up the board. Us older guys grew up when you had to have the knowledge to do stuff yourself. Many of us didn't have access to sophisicated machinery or techniques, so we fixed 'em and modified 'em until we achieved the performance increases we were seeking.

We passed knowledge among ourselves about what components worked better. If a certain camshaft made power in the range where we needed it, then that's the cam we ran. It didn't matter much whether it was lumpy or not, that was not one of the considerations to choosing a camshaft back then. We were hotrodders looking for the quickest and fastest combination.

Today, you can build a complete car from scratch with a credit card and the youngsters seem to care more about what the cam sounds like rather than using a cam that makes the most power in a range where you can use it.

That sort of makes us old guys feel like some of you current generation of rodders are posers instead of enthusiasts. Maybe we should identify another class of competition, Poserod. You guys could have a idling competition. Winner gets a kiss from the Poserod Queen, Jeff, a cheezy trophy and a box of candy bars.
Thanks, for the advice. I sure hope your not trying to knock me down as a youngster. I grew up with my father drag racing until he passed away then I had three kids the cars stopped, and a family started. After working hard and not collecting food stamps. I have finally decided to get back into the hot rodding scene. Im tired of going to all the shows and drag strip without my own car. My kids love it! Everything I do I do myself and if I don't know I ask how. I'm sure that's how everyone learns! Here's the kicker If you got a little cash hard earned that's for sure and you find a good deal whats wrong with buying it. It would have cost me more to build it myself. I love working on my car, and including my kids in the fun. If thats me being a poser, so be it. I love muscle cars, not rice burners. I work on my own stuff other than this motor I bought (First Time Ever). Did I mention that I work hard for what I have, so if I buy it. Who give's 2 flips. Full time job unlike some folks. 3 kids a wife and a mother that I take care of which they all love hotrods. Im not an enthusiasts? How's so? I'm curious. :confused: This is a forum that you can get advice from right?
 
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