Here's what the trans is doing "once in a while" not all the time.

All shifts are fine 1,2,3 4od some times when you come to a stop while in gear
it doesn't want to go forward , like it's in neutral when trying to accelerate .
If you move the shifter "column mount "to neutral and back to drive it works.

Trans filter and fluid recently change and a nice red color, no burnt smell .

Any ideas ?

Thanks ,
1939P7
Have a safe & happy holiday season

check the prndl switch on the side of the case that bolts up over the manual arm. if it lines up, then u may have an internal problem. u say u had it serviced, r u sure the filter is in all the way or didnt get knocked out while trying to put the pan back on? its a pretty tight fit getting the trans pans in and out of those s-10s/blazers. r u sure the trans is full? fluid level should be checked running while hot in park. 1 thing simple u can try to verify if it might be the filter, is to add a quart or so and then drive it. if it doesnt neutral out anymore, then its most likely the filter has dropped to the bottom of the pan..

I did the trans service/fliter, I know what a bear they are. I have 2 jimmy's
+ 2 other auto's but only 2 with he E60's.
I did check the prnd21 SW. what I did find out is that the 4DW SW is screwing up, at times ist in 2WD if you goto 4WD H it doesn't want to go back to 2DW. I don't know if this is related to the prob. it more or less appears that it's trying to take off"from a stop" in second gear. after fullin with it this AM. if you drop it to 1@ a stop and dack to D it works . I'm wondering if the 1st 2d solenoid might be the prob.
I have a set here but didn't change anything yet as I'm looking for info B4 I
get under it again.

thanks for your imput

np,,, it kinda sounds like 1 of the solenoids may have inadvertantly been broken trying to remove or re-install the pan... seen it plenty of times...(wont start out in low gear) i really wouldnt suspect the t-case., if anything, if it doesnt get used very often,(4 x 4) then theres also a possibilty that the motor for the t-case is getting partially stuck inside... a couple "moderate" taps with a hammer might free it up, a common problem with the ranger/exploder t-cases, but i havent reaaly seen the issue with the gm units. nor have i seen 1 neutralize in the manner ur speaking of. the t-case for ur jimmy i belive is fulltime... theres a switch in the front differential that may not be switching under command.. other thing is, if u dont back up after switching from 4 hi back to 2 hi,it wont unlock the hubs. gl

a few things:

This is a 1995 GM SUV / truck?

I have never seen the correct filter for the tranny pan fall out of the pump in a 4L60E.

There are 2 pans from GM for the 4L60E in a truck / SUV application... a shallow design the same depth as the 700/4L60 , this pan uses a filter of nearly the same design / thickness as the non E units. A metal and plastic design.

The deeper pan commonly refered to as the 'truck pan' is deeper and uses a full plastic case type filter that is thicker and fits the deeper pan.

IF the early filter is used in a deeper pan , the filter can fall out of the pump.

Next..... 1939p7:

does the engine actually 'rev up' and NO movement? Or does the vehicle seem to "not want to move" yet the motor does not free wheel / rev from a full stop?

The reason I ask : 4L60E have problems with internal valve body / pump leakage from wear that will cause the trans to stay upshifted even when the PCM has commanded '1st gear'....

You roll to a stop and the tranny does not down shift to 1st gear. You step on the gas pedal & the vehicle seems to roll forward barely but the engine does not 'rev up'.

If your engine 'revs up' as if the tranny is in 'neutral'... I would suspect worn out bushings in the pump stator support that is allowing pressure to bleed off from the sealing rings in there.

If you had a broken solenoid with the tranny service , I doubt that this problem would happen once in a while. Usually a broken solenoid does not function.... OR you may have broken the electrical connector and the wires are loosing contact sometimes.

my best guess at this point, hope it helps

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Merry Xmas Crolsey ,
I though for a minute you went away for the holiday, I was awaiting your reply.

It's a 1995 GMC Jimmy 4x4,16 bolt pan 4L60E trans rebuilt @144654 / 2003

The best description would be:
"You roll to a stop and the tranny does not down shift to 1st gear. You step on the gas pedal & the vehicle seems to roll forward barely but the engine does not 'rev up'."

My Daughter said "it did once on the way home from work, I drove it for about 15 minutes in a area with lots of stops and it did it a few times."this was B4 I figured to service te trans". As I stated B4 "the fluid was a nice red color, no burnt smell, no materials in the pan,. Just a bit of the normal stuff on the magnet .

Now B4 this all came about she had some electrical probs with "head lights blinking" and from what she tells me "as if the cruise control kicked in from a stop & go and accelerated " .
However, she never uses it. Her boy friend found the battery neg. cable was bad and changed it.That appeared to cure the electrical prob.

I have a habit of doing a filter and fluid every 2 years on out cars because of
the milage clocked on them . I know its a bit over kill, but "early direction saves tranny's"

again this is what it appears to be doing >

You roll to a stop and the tranny does not down shift to 1st gear. You step on the gas pedal & the vehicle seems to roll forward barely but the engine does not 'rev up'.

any ideas

thanks

Did you read my first answer completely?

Usually the AFL valve bore is worn in the v-body. Excessive Pump rotor/slide wear can help cause this too.

my first answer:


Pull the tranny out and get some repair parts & tools from Sonnax.

Good luck

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yes i did but with the other questions i didn't know where to go.
so... i went with the best of the "might be's in my view" as to what it would point to the prob i have with the kid's jimmy..

the vale body on the 4L60E I (was) going to use for my coupe( and that ain't going to happen) has a rebuilt VB W/ the updated shift solud's.
would that correct the prob?


thanks

no, it may cause more.

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This problem could also be a problem with the trans loosing battery power. Both the shift solenoids are powered by the same fuse and the computer grounds them to get the different gears. In 3rd gear, both solenoids are off. So if the trans looses power, it will start in 3rd. This will act like you have very low power and it can also feel like it is slipping. One way to feel the effect would be to remove the trans fuse and drive it, if it feels the same as you described your problem you are on the right track. Just don't drive very much so you don't hurt the trans.

Check he connection at the trans and other wiring. Maybe your electrical problems are somehow related.

Just a thought,
Rick

Hi Rick,
Thanks for the input, I'm getting a OBDII scan tool since I have
2 jimmy's with the "W" vin code, I'll need it anyway.
I have a feeling that with all the elec. probs on this rocket
that it is an elec. Issue. the trans rebuild that was done was
pump, servos,clutch packs, seals, bushings, etc. and everything was fine
until the electrical stuff surfaced.
I'm going to go and try what you suggested now to see where I
stand,going to check the wires/plug,VSS, etc going to the trans .
this problem just came out of the blue too quick with no trans probs
before at all.
If I have to pull the pan for any reason, I'm putting in the
"spare" updated VB I have here with a 4l60e I WAS going to put
in my Coupe.
Thanks again

Sorry for the incomplete post earlier.

Swapping the v-body may cause problems if they are not the same year application and solenoid ohms on the 3-2 solenoid.

Normally a power loss to the tranny will throw many codes that do not necessarily point to the problem.

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Well, you hit the head right on the nail there Mr. Crosley

The bum that rebuilt (changed some parts) never changed
a bushing in the trans ,or any lip seals etc. Just the normal
"this will make it work" job . I had the sonnex kit done
locally in the valve body, the cost was more effective.
I had ordered all the other parts from Bulkpart along with every
bushing, thrust bearing/s seal's/master kit, books, etc. I spent a lot
of time on the lathe making tools for removing and installing the bushings
along with other things needed to do the job. Everything is just
fine now. Now I see why you guys get the "well" deserved
price to work on these beast and have lift's , there is a lots of work
and parts ! and then giving everything the once over twice and checking
all the clearances and setting the input shaft end play, etc....
Thanks for the correct information, it saved the trans no doubt
and my daughter a lot of bux's..

Your # 1 in my book

glad to hear stuff went well.

I applaud you for making tools or finding a way to do the job.

That is what a DIY person is all about IMHO.

i can point folks to the right parts or info all day.... however I cannot rebuild the unit through the internet

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