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Old 03-29-2009, 11:53 AM
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4l60e problem 93 suburban

i have a 1993 chevy suburban k1500 4wd 350. in 2006 the tranny was put in and purchased through monstertransmissons.com my problem is the 1st gear is very long, i have to be going 20 mph before shifting to 2nd is that normal???? also my major concern is 4th gear. i feel like im not in fourth when on the highway , i dont have an rpm gauge. i dropped the pan yesterday changed the 2 shift solenoids, and checked the accumulator in the tranny. all seemed very good. i was told that if the accum is plastic it can break. but it was aluminum. changed the filter since i had it out, and refilled with fluid.

any help please! will be appreciated. do you think i have to disconnect the battery after i changed these solenoids????? i didnt. will that reset the computer?

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Old 03-29-2009, 01:45 PM
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reverse? if it is shifting at 20mph it is likely that youre actually shifting into third... if reverse is present, you have a 2/4 band or band apply issue. if no reverse, your reacion sunshell has stripped splines or is broken.
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Old 03-29-2009, 02:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LEE EYES
reverse? if it is shifting at 20mph it is likely that youre actually shifting into third... if reverse is present, you have a 2/4 band or band apply issue. if no reverse, your reacion sunshell has stripped splines or is broken.

whats a2/4 band??? band apply???
i think your right, well actually it doesnt shift until i let off the gas pedal. i can hold the gas pedal and it will reach 50 mph on 1st gear. once i reach 20 i let off the gas pedal and the next gear applies, but about going into 3rd i think your right because, that second gear that applies is the only next gear, and it allows me to reach 60 mph and wont ever shift again, feels like im driving a powerglide.
im really fed up and im going into the transmission shop on tuesday.
i really like the truck. i think the engine runs very smooth and idles like if its off. if i tried to sell it i wouldnt get much with a broken tranny.
im going in. i will keep you guys updated.
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Old 03-29-2009, 02:48 PM
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I would check the TPS at the throttle body.

Is the check engine light on?

Unhooking the batt should do a simple reset on that old of PCM system
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Old 03-29-2009, 03:05 PM
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yes i tried unhooking the battery for 10 mintues. same thing. and i have no check engine light on. nothing. i know the check engine light works, because i disconnected the temperature sensor, and installed a mechanical temperature gauge and the check engine light came on , i had to connect the sensor back on the harness for the light to go off.
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Old 03-29-2009, 03:08 PM
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If the 2-4 band is not operating , the trans would pull a 1-3 shift ... that would appear to be a late shift.,,.... There would be no 4th gear , so the RPMs at highway speeds would seem high.

have you manually shifted the trans to count the gears it has? manual 1 to manual 2 ... see if it shifts?

Manual 2 to manual 3 ( D) ... see if it shifts
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Old 03-29-2009, 03:34 PM
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yes i tried manually shifting the shifter and when i felt it was time to switch to 2 i did so with nothing happening.
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Old 03-29-2009, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hecfrombx
i had to connect the sensor back on the harness for the light to go off.
So now the PCM may think the engine is stone cold, if the sender is connected to it...

Use a "T" fitting and put the OEM sensor on one side, your mechanical sender on the other, if possible.

Last edited by cobalt327; 03-29-2009 at 03:58 PM.
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Old 03-29-2009, 04:23 PM
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where can i get that "t"? black pipe???

what can happen to my truck if i leave it like that?
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Old 03-29-2009, 05:06 PM
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You might be able to plumb it using hardware brass fittings, or even steel hardware.

The problem w/this, is that you want the sensor to get the full temperature of the engine. If you use a "T" affair, the sensor's temp will be somewhat lower than the actual operating temp of the engine.

The best way will be to find another place altogether to put the new sender, and keep the original sensor where it was.

If that's not possible, and you still want the aftermarket gage, you'll need to use a very short "nipple" (pipe w/threaded ends, 1-3" long) w/the correct thread to screw into the engine.

To this, connect the "T" fitting. It'll have three female connections- one at each leg of the "T". One for the nipple, and one each for the OEM sender and the mechanical gage sender you added. The air needs to be expelled from this deal as best you can. This may require you to (engine running) loosen the highest joint enough that the air is forced out by the water, then re tighten.

Use teflon tape or pipe dope on the threads to keep them from leaking.

This set-up is not an ideal solution, in any event. Much better to do the sender and sensor in separate locations.

Check for clearance and available space, measure and draw a diagram of what will be needed.

It might be 1/8" or 1/4" NPT- you'll have to take your sender w/you when you go for the parts.

If you have a parts store you use a lot- where they know you- likely someone there will take the time to walk you through selecting the hardware. Home Depot is an option, too.

As for what this does to the engine, the engine's computer uses inputs from all the various sensors to determine things like timing, fuel mixture, etc.

A cold sensor reading can keep the engine from going "closed loop", where the computer is fully in control of the engine's settings.

If it stays in "open loop", the engine will run acceptably, but will not let the computer optimize the settings- it will run on a predetermined set of instructions for a cold engine. Mileage and drivability could suffer.

Last edited by cobalt327; 03-29-2009 at 05:32 PM.
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Old 03-29-2009, 05:37 PM
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good catch, very thankful for the info my friend! the reason i put mechanical is because the actual temp gauge isnt working. i changed the sensor and still didnt mark any temperature so i decided to go mechanical.
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Old 03-29-2009, 09:39 PM
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that cts is not your problem. if it was, your mil would be illuminated. more than likely you have a icp issue. very comon in those trucks, but an unrelated issue. you have a mechanical fault in the transmission. i assume reverse is present then?
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Old 03-29-2009, 10:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LEE EYES
that cts is not your problem. if it was, your mil would be illuminated. more than likely you have a icp issue. very comon in those trucks, but an unrelated issue. you have a mechanical fault in the transmission. i assume reverse is present then?

I agree , the temp sensor is not cause of shift problems...

When the shifter is in manual 2nd gear on a 4L60E in an OEM application, GM engineered the trans to be in 2nd gear for situations of low traction like snow / ice.

If this trans does not respond with 2nd gear when the shifter is moved from manual 1 to manual 2... I suspect a parts failure inside.

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Old 03-29-2009, 11:06 PM
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bring it to my shop...lol. keep me updated. i am very curious now.
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Old 03-30-2009, 06:24 AM
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tomorrow its going to the transmission shop i will keep you guys posted
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