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Old 07-16-2008, 12:42 PM
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4L60E Slipping

Looks like it may be time to replace the tranny in my V8 conversion Sonoma!

I let the fluid get about a quart low and that seems to have cooked it. Anyway, it is slipping on the 3-4 shift pretty badly. I am pretty clueless about trannys (among MANY other things! Just ask my kids!!) and would really appreciate some help with this...

1. Could anything else be causing this slipping? When I gas it at maybe 65 mph or so it feels like the clutch is slipping on a stick shift car.

2. I had a Hypertech tune on the truck for 3-4 years, including the firmer shifting option. I never really noticed much difference, but could this have hurt it?

3. The tranny in question is behind a 1998 5.7 litre out of a Sierra. Would it make any sense at all to replace it with either an R4 or something else? The truck is pretty much my daily driver (and maybe a little bit of a sleeper street thug) .

4. I have to keep this smog legal in California, but I am guessing they don't care about which tranny you have.

Thanks for your advice!

Dave

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Old 07-16-2008, 01:18 PM
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I was quoted 4-500 dollars to freshen up the '93 4L60E behind the 5.7 TBI I'm putting in my Diamond T, which seems reasonable to me. That's with me doing the R&R of course, but it seems cheaper than replacing a 4L60 with an unknown 7004. That, and your truck already is set up for the electronics, so why go backwards?

Brian
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Old 07-16-2008, 01:57 PM
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Wow! That's a good price, Brian. I've been quoted $1500 with me doing the R&R, but this is a pretty expensive place to run a shop (shop rates around here run $125-$200 per hour). Is that for a 60E or an R4? I thought '93 GMs were still using the R4s? When I looked online for rebuilds, the R4s are Lots cheaper than the 60Es...I guess because of the extra hassle of the electronics.

I guess part of my question is wondering if there is something stronger or more reliable than a 60E?

Dave
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Old 07-16-2008, 05:48 PM
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Yikes, that's higher than here. I'll admit I know the guy who does my trans work, so it may be a little less than the going rate. He did the AOD in my '59 'Bird when I fried it (TV cable fitting broke) for 300, and the 400Turbo for my 472 Caddy, for 500. Yes, it's a 4L60E, from a '93 Chev C10 van. It shifts fine, for now, but I thought it'd be a good idea to go thru it before it gets installed.
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Old 07-16-2008, 11:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluesman123
Looks like it may be time to replace the tranny in my V8 conversion Sonoma!

I let the fluid get about a quart low and that seems to have cooked it. Anyway, it is slipping on the 3-4 shift pretty badly. I am pretty clueless about trannys (among MANY other things! Just ask my kids!!) and would really appreciate some help with this...

1. Could anything else be causing this slipping? When I gas it at maybe 65 mph or so it feels like the clutch is slipping on a stick shift car.

2. I had a Hypertech tune on the truck for 3-4 years, including the firmer shifting option. I never really noticed much difference, but could this have hurt it?

3. The tranny in question is behind a 1998 5.7 litre out of a Sierra. Would it make any sense at all to replace it with either an R4 or something else? The truck is pretty much my daily driver (and maybe a little bit of a sleeper street thug) .

4. I have to keep this smog legal in California, but I am guessing they don't care about which tranny you have.

Thanks for your advice!

Dave


The hard parts that are responsible for the problem you are having are the same in either the 'E' or the R4. This is a well known failure in these transmissions. The parts to fix this shortcoming is readily available.

Look for a Raybestos Z-pak for the 3-4 clutch.
Use a Superior billet 2nd and 4th servo.
Use at least a .471 boost valve.
Use a WIDE (2 3/8") Carbon 2-4 band.
Consider a 13 vane pump also.

Combine this with a TransGo 700-JR recalibration kit and you'll have a much better trans. There is a difference between a firm shift and more holding power as far as durability goes.
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Old 07-17-2008, 09:37 AM
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Wow! Thanks C-10! That's just what I am looking for. My neighbor is certified to work on these things (right now he is a body man for a custom rod builder) so I am hoping he can help me do this myself. Your parts list is a terrific help.

Love this site!

Dave
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Old 07-17-2008, 06:33 PM
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couple of items;

the 4l60E boost valve is a one piece - dual zone item. Which valve land would he measure for .471 size?

IF you use the wide 2-3/8 band.. make sure the drum area the band applies on is flat. Often these drums are warped and need a new replacement drum.
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Last edited by Crosley; 07-18-2008 at 06:12 AM. Reason: dang spelling.. again
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Old 07-17-2008, 11:47 PM
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Hi Crosley.

This one is a sonnax piece. It's a .490" (arrow) #77898E-K. It shouldn't be used on the late design pump. (2nd pic)

OEM's are either a .420 & .470 (not .471 ) I digress. I was .001 off.

Bluesman, maybe your trans already has a 13 vane pump, which is good.
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Old 07-17-2008, 11:52 PM
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Most HP Pro builders don't like the Carbon/Kevlar bands. They use the Alto Red Eagle wide bands. I think the 4L60E comes with a 13 vane pump. If you're going to use the larger billet servos I'd recommend the .500 TV Boost & .300 Low/Reverse Boost valves.
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Old 07-18-2008, 06:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C-10
Hi Crosley.

This one is a sonnax piece. It's a .490" (arrow) #77898E-K. It shouldn't be used on the late design pump. (2nd pic)

OEM's are either a .420 & .470 (not .471 ) I digress. I was .001 off.

Bluesman, maybe your trans already has a 13 vane pump, which is good.

If a person chucks the early boost design sleeve in a lathe.. slight trimming here & there.. it fits the latest design stator.

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Old 07-18-2008, 11:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crosley
If a person chucks the early boost design sleeve in a lathe.. slight trimming here & there.. it fits the latest design stator.

I will make a note of that. Thanks for the hint! Learn something new everyday.
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