[bluesman123]

I need to replace the rear seal on my 4L60E...its oozing a little and messing up my nice new clean driveway. Looks like all I need to do is drain the juice and drop the driveshaft to get to the seal.

My question is, is there anything special I need to get the old seal out? Some slick tool? Or just pry it out with a screwdriver.

Anything tricky I am missing here?

Thanks for the hints,

Dave

[RCastle]

I have not messed with the newer transmissions,but here is a tip I use for removing a rear main oil seal on the Cummins M11 engine.Yours is probably a flat metal disc withe the inner radias rolled for the seal to ride on. Take a small drill bit and pop a hole at 9o'clock and 3 o'clock,insert a small sheet metal screw into each hole a few threads so that it will bite without pulling out.Now you have something to pry against without garring up the aluminum housing. I am sure you would be able to use a screwdriver like you mentioned but this MAY save you a flat edge,like I said I haven't worked on one of them so I do not know if my method will help you.

[Chazmac]

Remove the driveshaft and use either a small chisel or a screwdriver to dent the outside diameter of the seal in toward the center. Youcan then pry the seal out of the bore. Do not hit the housing, it will crack. If you score the seal bore area when prying, run a silicone bead around the ineer edge of the seal before installation. Remember, NO oil where the silicone goes, or it won't adhere. Check the driveshaft yoke and bushing. If worn, no seal will stop the leak.

[M&M CUSTOM]

Originally posted by RCastle
I am sure you would be able to use a screwdriver like you mentioned but this MAY save you a flat edge,like I said I haven't worked on one of them so I do not know if my method will help you.

It'll work but you run a slight risk of getting metal shavings from drilling the holes into the tailshaft housing.

You could also use the screwdriver method you were asking about, but use TWO, one on each side for more even prying pressure without as much risk of damaging the tailshaft housing as using a chisel and slipping.

The stamped sheet metal material the seal is made out of will give enough, that you shouldn't have to worry about it damaging the housing from simply prying it out like I described.

And you shouldn't have to worry about very much transmission fluid leaking out, the level when not running should be at a level below the bottom of the seal in question, BUT a little will be there and it will leak when the seal is removed. Simply use the same method you would for changing your engine oil.

When I removed the entire tailshaft housing from my TH-700R4 to change the speedometer gears, driveshaft seal, and tailshaft housing to transmission main body case seal, I lost about a half cup of fluid.

[trees]

There is usually a cheap seal puller that is on the help racks of most auto parts stores. Not very pretty, but they work. The secret is to get the seal back in with out damaging it or the housing. Also, when you inspect the yoke and there is a grove, a replacement seal usually has a different offset on the neoprene lip that will be ride in a different area of the yoke.

Trees

[M&M CUSTOM]

If the seal area of the shaft is damaged there are repair sleeves available that can be press fit on to the surface that will repair it, although not permanently, I have heard of these sleeves failing miserably on many occassions though.

[Crosley]

mayb I missed it , but i see no year of this 4L60E tranny.....

This tranny has 4 or 6 bolts on the tail housing. Since you need to remove the drive shaft , unbolt the tail housing and replace the bushing and seal to perform a correct repair.

there is a rubber square cut seal on the tail housing to the case that can usually be reused. A new O-ring is cheap

If you don't have the tools or knowledge, take the tail housing to an tranny shop.


If the yoke on the drive shaft is worn out.... replace it . I dont like repair sleeves for this type of application & can't remember ever seeing one.

[Chazmac]

Dead on right.

[bluesman123]

I'm being real stupid here, but I don't understand why you remove the tail housing. Isn't it possible to just remove and replace the seal? I'm not trying to be a S____ A___, I just don't understand.

Thanks for everyone's advice,

Dave

[Crosley]

Originally posted by bluesman123
I'm being real stupid here, but I don't understand why you remove the tail housing. Isn't it possible to just remove and replace the seal? I'm not trying to be a S____ A___, I just don't understand.

Thanks for everyone's advice,

Dave

if the bushing is worn out or too loose , a seal replacement will not fix the problem.

Some of us here have worked on trannys for many decades and are offering our experience with this leak to you.

My 2000 Silverado started leaking at the seal of the drive shaft yoke at 51K miles. I pulled the tail housing and replaced the bushing and seal. No leak for 7k miles so far.

[M&M CUSTOM]

I had a need to change my speedometer gears, so while I had the tailshaft housing off I replaced the gears, housing O-ring, and the driveshaft seal.

I couldn't see having to redo part of the job anywhere from next day through the need to service the transmission again.

Like many others I can't see doing a job like this only part way.

[bluesman123]

Thanks for the info. That all makes sense to me. Really appreciate your experience. This is a great bulletin board!!

Dave

[Crosley]

Originally posted by bluesman123
Thanks for the info. That all makes sense to me. Really appreciate your experience. This is a great bulletin board!!

Dave

Keep in mind that I have owned a couple of repair shops. I look at things with the eye towards a correct repair that I will NOT have a warranty problem with down the road.

[bluesman123]

Makes sense to me. Any special tools or anything I will need to remove and repair the tailhousing?

Thanks

Dave