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Old 10-20-2012, 06:53 AM
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4l60e troubleshoot

Hello I've found a lot of valuable info on this forum so I decided to try to get some help here. I have a 94 Chevy k1500 that had reverse (with some grinding) and 1st and (barely) 2nd. I bought the Rick Metzing DVD and rebuilt it, taking my time. I found a broken rear planet that had to be replaced, which caused a ton of sludge.

Once I put it back together, I only had reverse and what I think is first. This model doesn't have a tach but I'm rapping out at about 30mph. I'm going to replace the 2-4 band and reverse input drum next week because they were both in bad shape and the manual says they might be causing the lack of 2nd gear.

My question is, shouldn't I have 3rd gear if only the 2-4 band and reverse drum are bad? At what speed should a shift into 3rd occur?

Also has anyone ever stripped a pump bolt? I want to buy a line pressure gauge to make sure the pump isn't the problem. I stripped a bolt, the one that is 1" from the other one. Could it be a pump problem, this lack of 3rd? Can aluminum be re-tapped?
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Old 10-20-2012, 07:29 AM
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In many situations you can use a heli coil repair on stripped bolt threads in aluminum.

Do I understand your post here? You replaced a couple parts in the trans when the broken planetary unit was found? A proper rebuild was not performed?
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Old 10-20-2012, 07:43 AM
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No all clutches and steels, orings, sealing rings and gaskets were replaced. I also did the scotch brite on the sticking valves in the valve body, 4 of them were stuck. It was an ATP kit with raybestos steels and allo clutches. The DVD didn't really go into how check clearances or how often the selective plates need to be adjusted, so I just left those alone. I thought since I had 2nd before the rebuild, the 2-4 band and reverse drum could be skipped but that turned out to be wrong. Any future kit I buy will have a 2-4 band for sure but I'm not sure thats the only problem with this rebuild.

Last edited by Rebuildamatix; 10-20-2012 at 07:48 AM.
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Old 10-20-2012, 08:50 AM
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If the band and drum are not burned up, they should work again. All comes down to proper clearances in clutch packs and bushings wear. Too loose or too tight on clutch packs cause troubles. Cut lip seals, cut sealing rings all cause leaks

Electronics can clog up and cause problems of shifts, wrong gears, etc
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Old 10-20-2012, 10:06 AM
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Thanks for the advice.. The bushings looked good, I had the front pump bushing replaced. The sealing rings are in good shape. Once I replace the 2-4 band and reverse drum, the only other concerns will be the clutch clearances and valve body leaks. Evidently the 92-94 valve bodies are interchangeable and I can get one of those at the salvage yard for $25. One with no stuck valves or planetary sludge, etc, hopefully. I may post back once I have it apart. Hopefully they accept returns on these pressure plates or this could get expensive quick.
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Old 10-22-2012, 11:09 AM
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When I went to replaces the clutches and steels the ATP kit and the DVD and the ATSG manual all said different stuff.. The number of clutches matched exactly what was already in the transmission but the steels were all different. Here is what my DVD and the manual say, and what my ATP kit came with.
Forward
Atp - 4
ATSG - 5 (according to diagram)
DVD - ?

Low/reverse
Atp - 5
ATSG - 4
DVD - ?

Overrun
Atp - 2
ATSG - 2
DVD - ?

Reverse
Atp - 3
ATSG - 4 (according to diagram)
DVD - ?

3/4
Atp - 5
ATSG - 5
DVD - ?

Btw, I've got a dial indicator and transmission pressure tester on the way. I can rewatch the DVD and post what it says if necessary. Please advise.
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Old 10-22-2012, 11:48 AM
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OK I'm not seeing an edit your post button so here are the DVD steels numbers:
Forward: 5
Low-Reverse: 5
Overrun: 2
Reverse: 4
3-4: 5 steels, 6 frictions
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Old 10-24-2012, 01:02 PM
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Ok I got my pressure gauge today. My idle at park was 75. The weird thing was the pressure went down to 60 in reverse and it maxed out at 90 at WOT. Any ideas?
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