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Old 02-15-2012, 06:41 AM
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4l65E no 3/4 2005 Escalade

Got a 2005 Escalade transmission is not working or will not move in drive or overdrive range. No codes, line pressure is within the normal ranges 55 psi at idle in gear, foot on brake. When you pull it down into manual second and manual low the pressure increases to around 100 psi. When looking at the book and having the scan tool on the vehicle, everything seemed to be working, and the ohm readings were in line with the pressure readings. I have the line pressures wrote down but don't have them with me. I also unhooked the case wiring harness from the transmission and took line pressure readings as well, it did move in drive and overdrive with the increase in pressure. I did feel the gauge pulsating when the transmission was in reverse and was bouncing between 230 and 245 psi, is this a normal reading? I did pull it out and I could smell that wonderful burnt up smell when I removed the converter from the transmission. Little bit of grey slug and black slug in the pan along with fluid darkening? I guess the grey slug would be aluminum from something I would assume? Still trying to learn this stuff, thought maybe it would be better to ask questions from the beginning rather than at the end for stuff to be checking for as I went along.

One other question, if this input drum is cracked in the 3/4 area, where and what should I be looking for? If I air check it before I rebuild and it checks good does that mean I had a simple clutch failure or do I need to look further.

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Old 02-17-2012, 12:08 AM
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Well,other than the normal rebuild stuff,A cracked drum will be obvious if it is..they don't crack in ''hidden'' areas...usually... they will crack outside the input ring area when they do,easy to spot,but look it over real good,and a solid air check after going thru it will verify its ok...I'll sometimes air check it before i take the drum apart,to see if any air is coming out of somewhere its not supposed to...pay attention to the forward [input] sprag...when that fails,it will give you a no drive in OD ,but you will have manual 2 and 1,as that overrides the sprag....I replace all the moulded pistons...but replacing the 3-4 piston is a must....I change all solenoids in contaminated units....but changing at least the EPC is a good idea,as it eliminates erratic oil pressures and early trans rebuild failure..as is changing the torque converter...thats my 2 cents of info...hope it helps
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Old 02-17-2012, 12:43 AM
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oh..and chances are good that its just the 3-4 clutches bad,and not the drum....and with the harness unplugged,its at max pressure,and the high end guage readings will jump around a bit
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Old 02-17-2012, 06:41 AM
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4l65e

You are correct, the sprag is broken. I did air check the thing before I took it apart and it leaked good. I also hit it with about 80 psi and popped the 3/4 piston on accident. What not to do when going back together. The 3/4 clutches were not burnt, just a couple forward and the overuns were toast. Does not really matter, anythig with 150000 miles needs new stuff anyway. The other thing it did was rolled the reverse drum snap ring that retains the return spring assembly. I went to measure end play before removing the pump and nothing at all, Come to find out this has taken place. Maybe the guy if it has built before did not seat it properly. I think it has been built before, there was an x bellow the reverse piston marked with a sharpie, don't know if they do that at the factory. I know I mark certain things like low/reverse orentation before I install the seals, place piston in case, mark it, and then remove, then in reverse order with the seals in place. Just small little thing, but anyway thanks for the help.
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Old 02-17-2012, 07:14 AM
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when you air check it again,do it with everything in the drum installed....you can hold air to it longer that way,and it will give you a better indication of any problems or leaks. I allways stand the drum up on the input shaft with the clutches facing me,so i can see them applying when I put air to the ports. have fun.
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Old 02-18-2012, 09:08 AM
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Well I got it all together last night, I need to put the valvebody in this morning. Had a hard time getting the input and reverse drums in. After about 2 hours of messing with it I finally got them in. The end play was a little questionable with the new bushings throughout. I had to turn the transmission upsidedown to get it to loosen up enough get the endplay reading. I can pull up on the input shaft, has about .040 endplay, the rear shaft has a little endplay, and with the trans turned with the input facing the ground the reverse drum can be moved up and down against the pump, so nothing is bound up. Air check was good, so hopefully I should have a good unit when done.
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Old 02-18-2012, 12:38 PM
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040 end play is good....too late now,but sometimes I tap the input and output shafts a few times with a rubber mallet if initial end play isn't there like you experienced...and for future reference....with servo out,install one end of the band in the case lug, and just 1 of the 2 band tabs on the other end into the trans ,with the 2nd band lug just sticking out of the case,actually resting where the pump gasket sits....then you can work the drums into the trans with very little band resistence...once drums are seated,tap the 2nd band lug, with a hammer and screwdriver,to the opening just past the pump surface,and it'll fall into place....then you can install the servo and see the air check applying the band before ya put the pump in it. sorry it took ya so long to get them drums in....that can be frustrating
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