5.56 Rod strength Vs 5.7 - Page 2 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Engine
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #16 (permalink)  
Old 11-25-2008, 04:39 PM
topfuel's Avatar
ASE Certified Master Machinist
 
Last wiki edit: How to rebuild an engine
Last journal entry: More Pics
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Cincinnati
Age: 53
Posts: 329
Wiki Edits: 6

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
You will be fine with the stock length rods. I built a 406 back in the 80's that was somewhat similar to the one in the CHP story, at least the short block, and ran the heck out of it for 3 years before selling it to go big block. Here are some stats.

Forged TRW 9.5-1 comp. pistons
Stock length 5.565 rods recond. w/ARP bolts
Stock crankshaft
Comp Camps 280 Magnum hydraulic. 230/230 @ .050 .480/.480 110 lobe sep.
186 Camel Hump heads (remember it was the 80's) 1.95/1.6 valves
Edelbrock Pro Ram II w/ 2 450cfm Holleys (9776)

I never spun it higher than 6000 rpm and it was bracket raced almost every weekend for 2 of the 3 years it was in my car.

The car was a 71 Camaro w/T400 and a 12 bolt w/4.10 gears. Besides the bracket racing, I drove it more than 400 miles one way to shows in other states on many occasions.

Oh, by the way. Did I mention the NOS cheater system that saw it's fair share of use.

Below is a pick of the engine.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	sbctunnel.jpg
Views:	97
Size:	213.4 KB
ID:	34414  

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #17 (permalink)  
Old 11-26-2008, 03:05 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: COLORADO
Posts: 24
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I have been away from a computer for the past couple of days. Thanks everyone for your input.
Ron
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #18 (permalink)  
Old 11-26-2008, 07:08 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Northern Ohio
Age: 58
Posts: 81
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I built a stock bottom end 400 this spring for my 82 Z-28 and I used the stock rods and crank. I did have new Speed Pro Hyper pistons pressed on the reconditioned rods with new ARP hardware installed. I used a Milodon stud kit in the bottom with studs for a windage tray. I am running Dart Pro 1 Aluminum 200cc heads with a retro hydraulic roller cam and lifters along with full roller rockers. Like you, I don't race the car, just have a lot of fun driving it and it runs strong and hard. I shift it 6000 when the need arises and so far, no problems, just a big ole smile when I am into it hard. Have fun..
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #19 (permalink)  
Old 11-27-2008, 12:25 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 1,172
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
The difference in rod ratios from 5.56 to 5.7 rod length is totally insignificant.
Unless you consider 6.0 rods the ratio is irrelavent, and then still not really good, just better.
Price to buy and assemble your rods should be your factor for using one or the other.

Your two carbs are perfect for your situation. Since they came new already calibrated for your setup, little if anything needs to be done.

Don't over cam your engine. You will hate it and wonder where your mid range went.
I suggest you avoid the dual pattern cams with lots of exhaust duration. That hurts down low to help a little up high, especially with the wide LSA they throw in to crutch the situation.
I think that you will be much more satisfied with a single pattern cam in the 224 to 230* range with a 108* LSA should give you a nice lopey idle and strong torque curve with easy shifting at 6000.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Engine posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Rod length discussion, split from previous thread seriousracer Engine 11 06-29-2007 12:27 PM
Need longer rod ends. Can anyone help? 23TRex Suspension - Brakes - Steering 4 02-26-2006 03:34 PM
SBC Destroked Destroked_SBC Engine 46 02-19-2006 12:43 AM
removing rod end with metal dust cover/spacer cboy Suspension - Brakes - Steering 3 01-24-2006 03:45 PM
327 in 88 Truck pete379 Engine 101 01-19-2006 09:03 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:20 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.