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You will be fine with the stock length rods. I built a 406 back in the 80's that was somewhat similar to the one in the CHP story, at least the short block, and ran the heck out of it for 3 years before selling it to go big block. Here are some stats.
Forged TRW 9.5-1 comp. pistons Stock length 5.565 rods recond. w/ARP bolts Stock crankshaft Comp Camps 280 Magnum hydraulic. 230°/230° @ .050 .480/.480 110° lobe sep. 186 Camel Hump heads (remember it was the 80's) 1.95/1.6 valves Edelbrock Pro Ram II w/ 2 450cfm Holleys (9776) I never spun it higher than 6000 rpm and it was bracket raced almost every weekend for 2 of the 3 years it was in my car. The car was a 71 Camaro w/T400 and a 12 bolt w/4.10 gears. Besides the bracket racing, I drove it more than 400 miles one way to shows in other states on many occasions. Oh, by the way. Did I mention the NOS cheater system that saw it's fair share of use. Below is a pick of the engine. |
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I have been away from a computer for the past couple of days. Thanks everyone for your input.
Ron |
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The difference in rod ratios from 5.56 to 5.7 rod length is totally insignificant.
Unless you consider 6.0 rods the ratio is irrelavent, and then still not really good, just better. Price to buy and assemble your rods should be your factor for using one or the other. Your two carbs are perfect for your situation. Since they came new already calibrated for your setup, little if anything needs to be done. Don't over cam your engine. You will hate it and wonder where your mid range went. I suggest you avoid the dual pattern cams with lots of exhaust duration. That hurts down low to help a little up high, especially with the wide LSA they throw in to crutch the situation. I think that you will be much more satisfied with a single pattern cam in the 224 to 230* range with a 108* LSA should give you a nice lopey idle and strong torque curve with easy shifting at 6000. |
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