5" waterpump bolt (Ford 289) head broke off and frozen in waterpump - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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Old 07-11-2006, 09:44 AM
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5" waterpump bolt (Ford 289) head broke off and frozen in waterpump

I have a 66 Mustang built in Feb. of '66 with a 289. First I removed the valve covers to find the heads stamped 65. Is it a 65 motor or did they run that far into the next year with last years parts?
Also, when removing the waterpump, there is a one 5" long bolt and the head broke off of it. It was frozen in the waterpump. I had to drill and chizel the waterpump to get the pump off the bolt. Now that I have the pump off, I have a couple of inches of the bolt sticking out of the timing cover. Once again tried to turn it after tapping on it and spraying it with penetrating oil and it broke off in the timing cover. It seems to be frozen in the timing cover as well. My next step will most likely be drilling and chizeling the timing cover off of the bolt and then it may break off in the block. Right now I am stuck at this point with the bolt broke and flush with the timing cover. Any suggestions before I continue this destructive path?

One more question. When removing the distributor, the oil pump rod came up with the distributor and then dropped back in the hole. I am going to try to get the rod out with a magnet. Will I have a problem re-installing the distributor and rod? And is this normal with Ford? I have never experienced this with Chevy motors

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Old 07-11-2006, 10:03 AM
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1) The heads might have been changed. There is little to no difference in the heads anyway except for smog bumps in the 66 exhaust, most undrilled.

2) I would strip the front to the block and heat the bolt and block, let it cool, then heat the block again.

3) The rod should not have come up. There is suppose to be a marcel washer around the rod to prevent its coming up. If you drop the rod into the pan you will have to pull the pan to fix it. Often the washer is installed upside down or left out completely when the rod/pump was changed.


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Old 07-11-2006, 11:13 AM
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If you have to remove the front cover due to the broken capscrew, you can fish it (pump drive) out of the opening at the oil pan.
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Old 07-13-2006, 11:55 AM
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Hi, You mentioned heating the bolt and block, let it cool, then heat the block again. So I should heat the block only the second time or both block and bolt? And after the second heating, should I try to turn the bolt at that point or let it cool again? Thanks for the reply!
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Old 07-13-2006, 12:07 PM
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Heat the block so that it has expanded more than the bolt for clearance. Twist out hot.
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Old 07-14-2006, 10:15 AM
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broken bolt

try alittle heat direcetley on the bolt then melt in some candel wax,you might try a left handed drill bit sometimes these will grab bolt and spin it out,anyway candel wax works good on stuck or broken bolts
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Old 07-14-2006, 02:31 PM
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289

the candle wax is a great trick. it works. the oil pump drive coming out with the dist, to me ,indicates the eng has been into at some time. that could be why you have different head nos from the block. just a thought.
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