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Old 10-10-2005, 07:21 PM
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50 Chev bleeding brakes

I recently bought a 50 Chev Fleetline that had been restored then parked for many years. I replaced all the brake lines (steel and rubber) wheel cylinders, shoes.. I sent the master cylinder out and had it rebuilt. Put it all back together today and bled the brakes. No mater how much I bleed them I can't get a pedal. I took the lines off the master and plugged the ports, then I got a pedal so I assume the master is good. I replaced the one line which feeds the left front wheel and still got a good pedal. I replaced the second line that feeds the other 3 wheels and no pedal again. I bleed them some more and still no pedal. Sorry to be so long but I hope someone can help.

Syd

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Old 10-10-2005, 10:17 PM
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As the Moderator here....I would like to

WELCOME YOU HERE...

There are a lot of very knowledgeable rodders here...

If I was you, I would bleed the wheel cylinder the furtherest from the master cylinder ( longest brake line ) .....which should be a rear......then the other rear ..then the front wheel cylinder with the longest run and then the last one....then repeat...you should have a good pedal.if everything is working like it should....

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Old 10-10-2005, 11:07 PM
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Follow his directions, also we are assuming that you have a helper to pump the pedel holding it down after pumping slowly to build pressure while you open the bleeder screw to let fluid and air out then close the screw before calling on the helper to pump up pressure again.
make sure that the master cylinder 'NEVER' runs out of fluid while bleeding the brakes.
It is possible to bleed the brakes by yourself but I don't reccomend it unless there is no alternative.

Also make sure that the pushrod on the mastercylinder is correctly adjusted. too much slack will always give you a low pedel while if you take too much slack out it will cause pressure to be applied to the brakes all the time.

One last thing, It works better if all the brakes are adjusted properly before bleeding the brakes.
And let us know how you come out.
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Old 10-11-2005, 06:58 AM
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Thanks for the advice. I will try bleeding them again tonight following your suggestions. I have made sure that the push rod on the master cylinder is correctly adjusted as per the spec's in the service manual, I have also adjusted the brakes as the manual suggests.
I have never owned a car this old with the master cylinder mounted on the frame. Is it important that the car be level when I bleed the brakes? I don't have a hoist, I'm working in my driveway which is slightly angled so when I raise the back of the car to bleed the rear the car is really pointing nose down. Could this cause an air lock?
Thanks again
Syd
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Old 10-11-2005, 11:09 AM
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It shouldn't make a lot of difference normally the brakes on these rigs are easy to bleed. Make sure that your helper pumps the brakes slowly also, pumping too fast seems to draw air into the system. And again make sure that the bleeder screw is closed before they let up the pedel.
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