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'50 Merc"In primer for 7 yrs" at least
Hey Guys! Need your input on this one. We recently purchased a '50 merc from an estate deal that was in the process of a body off.To make this short it is at the primed stage and has been for over 7 years. It was vinyal washed and primed,I suspect with dupont products cause thats all the old guy ever used. It was always stored inside but there are a couple of spots that need attention where the lower quarter bolts onto. Should we fix those spots and shoot it with epoxy then the 2k. Body, doors and rear deck lid are done this way. Still have the fenders and hood to do. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Cheers!!!
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That's what I would do. If it's been stored inside and there is no surface rust peeking through the primer you can be pretty sure it was well cleaned and sealed when the old man shot it.
Fix the problem areas, scuff the existing primer and continue. I wouldn't bother to use epoxy except in the areas that you have to take down to bare metal, unless you plan to strip the existing primer anyway. Chances are that if the existing primer is solid all you need to do is scuff and shoot some primer filler over it in order to be ready for final bodywork. That's what I would do but if MartinSr or BarryK disagree I'd go with their advise. |
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Barry, the car has primer over top of the vinyl. Still scuff it up and do the epoxy thing. I've got to get the hood and fenders in the same colour of prime before I paint. I think your idea of epoxy and 2k might be the way to go as the hood and front fenders have to be done yet. Just have to get my partner thinkin' this way. He is really old skool. So we learn together, what the hay, eh.I almost had to enroll him in therapy when our local NAPA quit carrying citari and he had to use ppg.LOL
Thanks for your help again. This site is the best. |
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You will hate me for what I'm going to tell you but better off to find out now than after your done.
First take a rag with thinner or Urethane reducer (no enamel reducer) wipe a few spots on the primer for about 10 seconds each, if color shows on the rag you have lacquer primer and it must come off. Don't assume he did.....! If it is not lacquer primer I would pick out 4 or 5 spots on a top surface and sand to metal in a 6-inch diameter and if you see any yellowing or rust pits the 2K has melted the etch and after painted and in the sun it will start to gas or bubble. Check top of panels as old time painters were hosers and did not know what flash meant so that will be the worst area. Hood, roof, top of quarter etc. |
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Yea, Yea, BarryK to the rescue.
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Glad to see you are posting around here again too Centerline... Have not seen much of you as of late
Matthew |
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Thanks Again Barry; The vinyl wash he used is kinda a greenish yellow cause he sprayed inside the car to then primed over it of course. He used acrylic enamel dupont I think. Citari(?) So I'm not sure what primer he would have used but I'll try the thinner thing and see what happens. I had that bubbling thing happening on the roof of my '46 when I got it but only there. The original owner had it painted two tone in the late fifties and the guy that painted it put a.e. over it I think. That was before I got the car. That will bring me to another question, but not yet. I've really got to get my mind slowed down. Thanks Barry, you've been a great help
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Thanks to you to Centerline. Appreciate it. Cheers!!!
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Sorry Barry didn't mean to confuse you. Thats what he always used on his other projects. Must be my Canadian accent. I guess I should proof read be fore hitting reply button.LOL
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Quote:
The Shop isn't the hard part it's the log home that goes with it that's taking all my time. |
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They got logs in arizona? Thought it was just cactus and critters. Cactus logs???? LOL. Shop looks great. Shouldn't you finish the shop first? Then you've got something to work out of like doing trim and stuff and cuttin' logs when the weathers bad. Close garage doors and work on car. But keep the saw runnin' so the wife doesn't suspect anything. Cheers!!!!
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