I am rebuilting my 327 this winter, but i am taking the time to add stud girdles, thicker pushrods, an oil cooler, and a properly measured CR.
to recap: i was given this motor from my dad, but i was sitting for about 2 years. I did not have the knowledge at the time to freshen the motor up. It seams that the person that originally built the motor only intended to race a while and then have it die. at the time it had 462 heads with 1.94/1.50 valves, 3/8 rocker studs w/o girdle, no studs at all, and a stock 8" dampener. The guy put in a crane cams saturday night special cam. 4200-7200 oval track cam, 256/264 @ .050".
The whole long block is being rebuilt, .060" over, main studs, GM large journal forged crank, speedpro forged pistons, and possibly scat forged i-beam rods
This is my plan so far:
Sell my 462 heads and get RHS pro-action 200cc heads w/50cc chamers.
Speedpro flat top pistons, 2 vavle reliefs
Isky oval track cam, 200571, 3000-7600 .570/.580, 258/262 @.050
.015 or .020 thick head gasket (with .025 deck clearance)
Shooting for 11.5 - 12.1:1 cr, cam has intake valve closing point of 69 abdc.
Comp cams gold 1.5 ratio rocker arms 7/16 stud, arp pro series studs, stud girdle.
undecided - push rods at least .080 wall either 5/16 or 11/32
Engine oil cooler???
Good cooling system
Super victor intake W/ holley dp 650 (will soon get a 750 main body upgrade w/o choke tower)
Some kind of SFI approved dampener.
From what i read from Tech inspector's posts, and several cam tech sites, 165 PSI cranking pressure and 7.5-8.5 DCR is good for pump gas. with my short stroke and late intake valve closing point, 12.1 SCR gets me right around 8.4 DCR. plus i can advance or retard the cam timing to change the DCR a little.
I have already invested a lot into the car: Completely rebuilt rear-end with yukon axles, 4.10's, eaton posi. Upgraded fuel system, AN lines, mallory 140 gph pump. I currenly have summit 1.5" tube shorty headers, with dual exhuast that dumps before rear axle. I am hoping for 500 BHP with open headers.
A couple questions:
Would it be worth it to sell my reconditioned gm rods and buy some scat 5.7" i beam rod rated at 750 HP?
This will be my DD for the first few months, but then will turn into my weekend car. I have a sane car that i will use more frequently anyhow. I want to have the power available, but not be pushing things to the limit. Would an engine oil cooler help for longevity?
I am sacraficing all luxuries in the car to get HP to the wheels, no a/c, no heater, no computer. I have underdrive pulleys for crank and alternator since i plan on turning 7000+ rpm. I am not too worried about manifold vacuum or idle quality. I also happen to live in an emissions free county. :mwink: most of my driving is on the freeway and farm roads. Not very much stop and go stuiff.
Tell my what you think, what might you do differently? Any things i am forgetting? I am looking for this motor to last a good while, but i don't intend to abuse it or let things go. I have all the time in the world (relatively speaking)
My car is a 1988 camaro rs, lookes beat up, faded paint, but hopefully will be fast!
to recap: i was given this motor from my dad, but i was sitting for about 2 years. I did not have the knowledge at the time to freshen the motor up. It seams that the person that originally built the motor only intended to race a while and then have it die. at the time it had 462 heads with 1.94/1.50 valves, 3/8 rocker studs w/o girdle, no studs at all, and a stock 8" dampener. The guy put in a crane cams saturday night special cam. 4200-7200 oval track cam, 256/264 @ .050".
The whole long block is being rebuilt, .060" over, main studs, GM large journal forged crank, speedpro forged pistons, and possibly scat forged i-beam rods
This is my plan so far:
Sell my 462 heads and get RHS pro-action 200cc heads w/50cc chamers.
Speedpro flat top pistons, 2 vavle reliefs
Isky oval track cam, 200571, 3000-7600 .570/.580, 258/262 @.050
.015 or .020 thick head gasket (with .025 deck clearance)
Shooting for 11.5 - 12.1:1 cr, cam has intake valve closing point of 69 abdc.
Comp cams gold 1.5 ratio rocker arms 7/16 stud, arp pro series studs, stud girdle.
undecided - push rods at least .080 wall either 5/16 or 11/32
Engine oil cooler???
Good cooling system
Super victor intake W/ holley dp 650 (will soon get a 750 main body upgrade w/o choke tower)
Some kind of SFI approved dampener.
From what i read from Tech inspector's posts, and several cam tech sites, 165 PSI cranking pressure and 7.5-8.5 DCR is good for pump gas. with my short stroke and late intake valve closing point, 12.1 SCR gets me right around 8.4 DCR. plus i can advance or retard the cam timing to change the DCR a little.
I have already invested a lot into the car: Completely rebuilt rear-end with yukon axles, 4.10's, eaton posi. Upgraded fuel system, AN lines, mallory 140 gph pump. I currenly have summit 1.5" tube shorty headers, with dual exhuast that dumps before rear axle. I am hoping for 500 BHP with open headers.
A couple questions:
Would it be worth it to sell my reconditioned gm rods and buy some scat 5.7" i beam rod rated at 750 HP?
This will be my DD for the first few months, but then will turn into my weekend car. I have a sane car that i will use more frequently anyhow. I want to have the power available, but not be pushing things to the limit. Would an engine oil cooler help for longevity?
I am sacraficing all luxuries in the car to get HP to the wheels, no a/c, no heater, no computer. I have underdrive pulleys for crank and alternator since i plan on turning 7000+ rpm. I am not too worried about manifold vacuum or idle quality. I also happen to live in an emissions free county. :mwink: most of my driving is on the freeway and farm roads. Not very much stop and go stuiff.
Tell my what you think, what might you do differently? Any things i am forgetting? I am looking for this motor to last a good while, but i don't intend to abuse it or let things go. I have all the time in the world (relatively speaking)
My car is a 1988 camaro rs, lookes beat up, faded paint, but hopefully will be fast!