[new_rat_rodder]

i can get my gas gauge to work. i rewired the truck with a 21 circuit ez wiring kit, new 12 volt gauge, sender and tank. sender has resistance. gauge cluster is ground. i clipped an end of my test light to the tank and touched it to a hot wire so i know the tank is grounded. it angers me that i cant get it to work, so if any one could give me some tips on what to do, thank you

[JeffB]

Originally Posted by new_rat_rodder

i can get my gas gauge to work. i rewired the truck with a 21 circuit ez wiring kit, new 12 volt gauge, sender and tank. sender has resistance. gauge cluster is ground. i clipped an end of my test light to the tank and touched it to a hot wire so i know the tank is grounded. it angers me that i cant get it to work, so if any one could give me some tips on what to do, thank you

I am having the same problem ,if you figure it out send me a pm.

[new_rat_rodder]

??????????

[F&J]

You can bench test any gauge setup. Put 12v to the power side of the gauge itself, and then ground out the terminal that goes to the sender. The gauge needle should peg beyond full. (on the 12v jumper; some gauges have a seperate voltage limiter, but most don't. Check your gauge kit instructions before jumping with 12v)

You can test it the same way if it is installed, if you can reach & disconnect both of the gauge terminals behind the dash. If the gauge does not respond if you test it like that, then the gauge is not working. If the gauge does peg, then run a jumper from the sender to the correct terminal on the gauge. What you are doing is eliminating the "kit wiring" in case it is wired wrong. If the gauge now will not respond with a jumper to the sender, you should remove the sender so you can work the float arm by hand, with the jumper still attached(as well as a ground jumper to the sender body). If you don't get a response, the sender is not working.