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Old 07-06-2005, 04:37 PM
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52 Ford chop top pickup

Hey everyone I was wanting to know the frame specs on my 52 Does anyone know. I am wanting to put a later model frame under it. I am a excellent welder but is it a real hard job putting a newer frame under it. Also is there a way to make a flip nose with my frontend, or does anyone know how make the hood open backwards that would probally be easier to make it than a tilt frontend. And I would love to know how to suicide the doors, and any other custom ideas anyone has. I'm going to paint it flat black with red rims and interior.

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Old 07-06-2005, 05:42 PM
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I put a Nova clip under my 51, same frame as yours.

There are other methods....Mustang 2, Volaire, maybe a full S10 frame.......
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Old 07-16-2005, 09:33 PM
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This might help,

Click the image for a full veiw. Also, you might look into using an S-10 rolling frame. It comes with independant front suspension, front disc brakes, power steering, power brakes, and it's almost 6" lower than your stock frame. The frame is also boxed from the front all the way to just in front of the rear lift. All in one neat package. The S-10 frame is 33" wide at the front to just under the body, and widens to 40" all the way back. Use the long bed, it's wb is 117". Pull the body and fenders back 1", pull the bed forward 1", leave a 1" gap between the body and bed...no frame cutting. I just finished putting one under my 52 F-1. Small block Chevy with a TH350 tranny with a 9" tail is a drop-in, no need to cut the drive shaft.
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Last edited by lakota; 07-16-2005 at 10:09 PM.
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Old 07-16-2005, 10:51 PM
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Something to consider:

I checked with a frame specialist about my swap. He said that the F1 was a light duty farm to market truck and it was not designed for high speed highway use. He pointed out that the stock truck only went 50MPH and you needed an overdrive transmission to go faster. The frame was where he made his point. Because it was meant for slow speeds on rough roads it had a flexible frame, that's why it doesn't have a bolt down type of rear body mount, otherwise it would twist the body out of shape. He says it's one of the many reasons for the "Drunken Monkey Syndrome" (Road Wander).

Consider this:

You have a frame that has been flexing for over 50 years, combine that with metal fatigue, and now you want to put an engine with more torque and take it down the road at 65MPH.

It was either spend time and money to A) box the frame rails. B) Weld on a donor front end. C) Z or step the frame to lower it. OR A frame swap.

I opted for a frame swap
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