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  #166 (permalink)  
Old 06-27-2013, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
Looking good John.

I missed this thread but I'm on board now.
Thanks Pugs. That means a lot coming from you.

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  #167 (permalink)  
Old 06-27-2013, 08:03 PM
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Got to say there are'nt a lot of guys out there that would tackle something li ke that, then to actually stick with it and see it through now that takes a lot of stamina. Most would become overwhelmed and just plain quit. But not you, you just keep right on course, well my hats off to you for the skill, talent, workmanship and drive. Congrats and keep up the good work!!
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  #168 (permalink)  
Old 06-27-2013, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by mr4speed View Post
Got to say there are'nt a lot of guys out there that would tackle something li ke that, then to actually stick with it and see it through now that takes a lot of stamina. Most would become overwhelmed and just plain quit. But not you, you just keep right on course, well my hats off to you for the skill, talent, workmanship and drive. Congrats and keep up the good work!!
Thanks 4speed. I try to choose a particular goal to accomplish. Many guys will multi-task and work on several different areas of their build but if I do the job becomes overwhelming. I focus on one goal. (right now floor pans) By focusing on that one area only I see progress and get the satisfaction that goes along with accomplishing that. I find the time in the shop to be relaxing and rewarding.

John
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  #169 (permalink)  
Old 06-27-2013, 11:28 PM
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I just love that John is re-creating the pieces instead of replacing it with tubing or something. I am diggin this!

Brian
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  #170 (permalink)  
Old 06-28-2013, 05:46 AM
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Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
I just love that John is re-creating the pieces instead of replacing it with tubing or something. I am diggin this!

Brian
exactly what I was thinking...
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  #171 (permalink)  
Old 06-28-2013, 07:38 PM
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Thanks guys.

Today I moved on to removing the number 2 and 3 braces. Since I am trying to roughly replicate the origional pieces I am trying to remove the middle section pretty much intact so I can use it as a pattern. I have drilled out about 2/3 of the spot welds.

Here is the area where the seat brace was. I am amazed how good it is. This may be the only piece of the floor pan assembly I can reuse.



Each of these braces is made in 3 pieces. That may make them easier to duplicate. I hope so.



It has been difficult to find the spot welds in this rusty metal but I am about 2/3 of the way through. Tomorrow is another day.



John
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  #172 (permalink)  
Old 06-28-2013, 07:40 PM
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Oh yeah baby, this is coming along so damn cool! The thought of removing a spot welded on panel is so easy, yet so often guys will rip them apart with air chisels and what not. Simply "un-bolt" the spot weld! Un-bolt all the spot welds and the part comes right off!

Brian
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  #173 (permalink)  
Old 06-28-2013, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by John long View Post
Thanks guys.

Today I moved on to removing the number 2 and 3 braces. Since I am trying to roughly replicate the origional pieces I am trying to remove the middle section pretty much intact so I can use it as a pattern. I have drilled out about 2/3 of the spot welds.

Here is the area where the seat brace was. I am amazed how good it is. This may be the only piece of the floor pan assembly I can reuse.



Each of these braces is made in 3 pieces. That may make them easier to duplicate. I hope so.



It has been difficult to find the spot welds in this rusty metal but I am about 2/3 of the way through. Tomorrow is another day.



John
Just a little trick,,, If you know about where the spot welds are,, Pass a little sand paper over them and sometimes they will pop out so you can see them better..
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  #174 (permalink)  
Old 06-28-2013, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by NEW INTERIORS View Post
Just a little trick,,, If you know about where the spot welds are,, Pass a little sand paper over them and sometimes they will pop out so you can see them better..
Yes, that really does help. Thanks for posting that. You can see where I have tried. Unfortunately some of the rusty pits are about the same size of spot welds.

I am getting there.

John
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  #175 (permalink)  
Old 06-28-2013, 08:00 PM
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Yes, that really does help. Thanks for posting that. You can see where I have tried. Unfortunately some of the rusty pits are about the same size of spot welds.

I am getting there.

John
Yes.. Most of the time It does work ,, But sometimes when you don't have any metal at all,, It won't work...
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  #176 (permalink)  
Old 06-28-2013, 08:58 PM
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A roloc surface conditioning disc is the cat's meow for spotting the spot welds.

Brian
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  #177 (permalink)  
Old 06-28-2013, 09:09 PM
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A roloc surface conditioning disc is the cat's meow for spotting the spot welds.

Brian
LOL. 2 inch 36 grit Roloc discs and some 40 grit long board paper is exactly what I used. As a matter of interest I ordered some 3m green 3 inch 50 grit Rolocs yesterday. They should be here Monday. The problem is this metal is just so pitted it is hard to pick out the depressions of the spot welds. Not impossible, just difficult to see some of them.

John
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  #178 (permalink)  
Old 06-28-2013, 10:35 PM
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Surface conditioning discs are kick but for that, they don't remove the metal (or very little of it) but only the crap that is stuck to it.



I was blown away when I did a vintage Harley frame years ago and I remove the brass that was dripping out of the seams on the frame without touching the metal at all! Think what a mess it would have been to do that with a grinding disc. These things are like magic. It still may give you the same problem with the pits and not being able to tell exactly where the spot weld is, but then again, it may be just what the doctor ordered. It works very well on California rust.

Brian
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  #179 (permalink)  
Old 06-28-2013, 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
Surface conditioning discs are kick but for that, they don't remove the metal (or very little of it) but only the crap that is stuck to it.



I was blown away when I did a vintage Harley frame years ago and I remove the brass that was dripping out of the seams on the frame without touching the metal at all! Think what a mess it would have been to do that with a grinding disc. These things are like magic. It still may give you the same problem with the pits and not being able to tell exactly where the spot weld is, but then again, it may be just what the doctor ordered. It works very well on California rust.

Brian
We don't have rust in California. We have " Heavy Metal Discoloration"
If we had rust rest assured the EPA would be there Johnny-on-the-spot issuing citations and the HazMet people would be right behind them.

BB
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  #180 (permalink)  
Old 06-29-2013, 07:39 PM
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Managed to get the rest of the spot welds drilled and have uncovered the 2 braces under the seat. Now to get the rusty bolts out and do a little fabrication.

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