Hot Rod Forum banner

53 Belair conv rust repair

1M views 6K replies 111 participants last post by  Eduramac 
#1 ·
I just brought home a 1953 Chevy convertible Monday that is 100% there. 100% there except for the bottom 6 inches that is. I have always built rusty cars no one else wanted but have tried to do a quality job of repairing them on a budget.

The key wordhere is budget. I admit to being frugal but friends all say I am cheap. Whatever, for me to be able to enjoy this hobby I must be able to build the car and have my money invested, not just spent

The cost of replacement floor pans, floor braces, inner rockers, outer rockers, lower quarter panels, tow boards, trunk pan, rear pan extension, tail pan, and rear splash apron is well over 3000 dollars. That is money that will buy front suspension, rear axle, and good buildable engine. Maybe even a complete parts car.

I have basic sheet metal tools but nothing exotic. Small 3' brake, Shrinker/stretcher jaws, home made slip roll, and a home made english wheel and 110v mig welder.

My purpose here is to show the new hot rodder who is apprehensive about what he can do what is possible with a little time and patience and not much money.

Below is the patient. She has stage four cancer but we are going to try to save her. If we don't who will? :mwink:








So far I have stripped the inside, removed the front fenders and adjusted the doors. If the body shifts or moves during the build process I want to know it before everything gets welded together. Frequently checking door gaps will let me make sure it has not moved.




Tomorrow I plan to cut the toe boards loose from the front floor brace and expose the brace. The first job will be to remove the brace and reproduce it.

I hope you guys follow along and feel free to comment share thoughts, opinions, etc.

 
See less See more
5
#3,704 ·
I started hanging the front clip today. This is probably going to be a slow process. I certainly am glad I don't have to pay someone else to figure this out. I have spent a couple of hours just looking, measuring, and planning.

The first good news was, it looks like the door I wheeled the skin for is going to work well. The fender and door align pretty well without any effort.

[/URL]

It is going to be close as far as radiator clearance goes. I mocked up the grill and splash apron and it looks like I will have about 6 1/2 inches in front of the water pump pully after trimming back and modifying the splash apron. That is not much if you are wanting to mount an A/C condensor

[/URL]

If I am going to run a cross flow radiator, I will be removing and remaking the end baffles and luckily there are flat bosses under them that I believe will make good mounting pads for the front clip.

[/URL]

[/URL]

My battery is about to die so I am going to have to leave it here......One more picture showing the the splash apron in position. With luck, I have my spot to build my mounts.

John

[/URL]
 
#3,706 ·
Her is the correct picture for the splash apron before trimming.

This is going to be challenging by the time I get it trimmed and reinforced. Once I have the front mounts made there will need to be structural integrety from the mounts up to the top of the grill and fenders. I wish I had a junk radiator to use for mock up but I guess I will just have to spring for a new one.

John

[/URL]
 
#3,707 ·
Ack! The dreaded cat picture! Whew I had to check the other pages for pics.

You do have a fairly tight spot to work in ahead of that pulley. I bet you could whip up a cardboard and tape radiator or two based on listed dimensions.
 
#3,710 ·
That is a good idea. I may go ahead and make a cardboard "buck" of the actual radiator to protect the real one. It would also be light and easy to handle.

I wish I was as smart as the rest of you guys. :thumbup: Sometimes it is better to listen than it is to talk.......But hard for me to do! ;)

John
 
#3,709 ·
All good suggestions Mitch. I have been watching Craigslist hoping to fid a used Camaro but have not come accross anything.

I finally bit the bullit this morning and ordered a 3 row brass/copper radiator from Summitt along with 4 rubber saddle cushions. That will give me a factory replaceable radiator and something to mock up the front with.

The one I ordered is for a 70 Camaro BBC with a 26 1/4 core.

Here is the missing picture Matt.

John

 
#3,711 ·
John, on your frame end / core support & bumper mount thing thats gonna have to happen I want to toss out a couple crazy raw ideas. What if a guy was to measure some stuff and see that maybe some 88-now Chevy truck fenders could donate fender jambs and hood hinges? What if the core support, battery tray, and wheelwells could also be adapted? Or just imitated. What if the tubular front crossmember design of those trucks could lend an easy way to have frame horns at stock width for bumper mounting? Hmm. I don't know what you already have in mind.

I like the idea of, with as little cooling system space as there is, a removable upper tie bar. Maybe one with a shape that respectfully mocks a radiator top. If you were to embrace that bit of unibody thought, perhaps you could do as seen on some of those designs and chop the rails vertically just in front of the block. Add flanges and build whatever bolt-on structure you dream up.

Speaking of dream... yawn. Cardboard is good stuff. Take your time and it will be beautiful. :) Sorry about your wallet :pain: I have a good old 4 row brass / copper, GTO size, in mine.:thumbup:
 
#3,713 ·
Cool. Yeah I was thinking maybe if they were mounted opposite of original position maybe. Heck we ended up modifying 2002 Grand Prix trunk hinges to serve on the 73 TA we did. Tire needed to occupy hinge space. In your case, I was just thinking of ways to ditch the stock upright springs and free up space. Saw pics on the web with battery locations in a couple places. The narrow engine compartments of older classics do throw out some rodding challenges.:cool:
 
#3,714 ·
Nothing earth shattering to share but I have gotten the front fenders and grill hanging on the old girl.



The front of the clip is just sitting on a couple of wooden blocks but I have laid out my plans for mounts.

I am going to modify the splash apron at these two locations both reinforcing it and providing a level location for it to sit on cushions.



The 70 Camaro radiator came so I have been able to confirm it will fit between the front clip mounts.



Always looking for a challenge, I wondered if I would be able to duplicate a radiator. How do you think I did?




This will allow me to mock-up the front end without screwing up my new radiator. It sould be worth the hour or so I spent on it.

John
 
#3,716 ·
Better get out the fin comb, John. :D Cool, you make purty good box too. I am curious if you went the extra mile and put toilet paper roll coolant necks on the back. :mwink: I bet you are right about the time spent.

Once all the parts of that front end are together, the thing becomes fairly rigid doesn't it? Grille being the heart of it I suppose. I am sure you will whip up a cool piece or two tying it all together. Might not be earth shattering but sure to crack the dirt a little. I like seeing her so close to being whole.:)
 
#3,718 ·
My radiator from summit only has a 3 row 2 1/4 inch core but my home made unit has a three inch core. I didn't think it would need a real high fin count. :D I can buy a new sharpy though if you guys think I need to.

The area where I am fabbing up the mounts should become very rigid. The grill, inner fenders, radiator baffles, as well as the fenders themselves will all tie in together in that area. Also, I am going to replace that end of the splash apron with heavier stock. Even as it sits now, the area where I have the 2x2 wooden blocks is very rigid. I really do believe it will be good.

John
 
#3,719 ·
One thing is for sure. I have spent more time measuring and looking at this radiator than I have in actually mouning it.

It fits neatly between the frame rails. It only hangs down about 1/2 inch below the top of the frame rails. That is with the radiator pretty close to centering the waterpump snout midway between the top and the bottom. All and all, it seems to be all good.



The first and main issue, so far, is the splash apron meets the radiator about 4 inches from the bottom leaving 4 inches hanging below the splash apron. Either the splash apron has to be modified or a scoop has to be made to bring air into the bottom 20% of the radiator.

Here you can see on this rusty junk apron how much rise it has built into it.



If the rise is eliminated, the result will be a splash apron that funnels all the air into the core and utilizes all the radiator.

The intent here is to use only the exposed portion of the splash apron in front of the grill and replace the rest. I have a good start with a pattern but still need to lay out a joggle in it. (blue line) and some bead rolls to stiffen it up. (Red line).



The other two issues are the clearance in front and behind the radiator. I tried to leave enough room in front to slip in an A/C condensor and also have 3-4 inches of fan room.





This seems to be a very workable system that should provide a very efficient cooling system.

Bare in mind, this is with a long water pump and no firewall set back. :thumbup:

John
 
#3,722 ·
John,

I have to agree with Too Many Projects on that radiator fan clearance, I was thinking of the pitch of the fan will eat up a bunch a real estate. It may be ok with the real radiator but I would check how much room with a real fan.

Of course you could go short water pump and dual electric fans. Oh and on the subject of clearance The hood latch vertical support looks to maybe be real close but it may be the angle I am seeing it. Looks like if it is tight just narrow up the brace.

Either way John it is coming along and looking good. :thumbup::thumbup::cool:
 
#3,733 ·
Yep, that should fit well, but like Pugs said, it will be noisy. I was looking for a 5 or 7 blade asymmetric, like factory, because they weren't as noisy, but I didn't find anything for non-clutch application.:(

I am designing this in such a way as adding a shroud will be relatively easy. There will be metal all around the radiator so mounting surface will be provided for. My friend, Melvin, says he has a fan out of a '75 455 Trans Am that is a five blade asymmetrical I can have. That might be just the ticket.


Zag while everybody zigs and use the hydraulic fan setup off a Lincoln LS! :D

I would want the engine back all the way and to try to use a clutch fan. My own experiments with fans have not been able to improve upon stock for a given vehicle. On my GP I put an electric up front for those traffic jam moments. One might help the A/C work better, just saying. Walking a salvage yard on a decent weather day might spur ideas. IF you hanker ideas.
Matt I have the fan clutch off the 454. There is no way unless I cut the firewall. I am just not willing to start over again moving motor mounts, clutch linkage etc, etc

I can not go to the junk yard and wander around like I used to. I no longer can run off and leave Barb home alone. That is one of the reasons I spend so much time surfing Ebay. It has become my junk yard.

I made my modified splash apron today. I will get a few pictures and post what I did.

John
 
#3,732 ·
Zag while everybody zigs and use the hydraulic fan setup off a Lincoln LS! :D

I would want the engine back all the way and to try to use a clutch fan. My own experiments with fans have not been able to improve upon stock for a given vehicle. On my GP I put an electric up front for those traffic jam moments. One might help the A/C work better, just saying. Walking a salvage yard on a decent weather day might spur ideas. IF you hanker ideas.
 
#3,734 ·
I finished my pattern for the splash apron modification but decided to make it in two pieces rather than deal with the one big panel.



I was going to joggle the middle instead of welding it but my plans went south when I messed up the pattern turning it over. Yup, we all do it!:drunk:

I have it tacked and it looks like it will work well.







I am low on 75/25 gas. This may be a good time to get a little more practice with the Tig.

John
 
#3,736 · (Edited)
LOL, Low enough the tank pressure gauge is just barely coming off the pin. I should have filled it already but.....I'm just too "frugal" to return a tank before it completely bone dry empty. :mwink:

You will know when it is time to give it up Rip. Flow meter will begin to drop at around 30lbs. When that happens just quit. You can not make a good weld when the shielding gas goes away.

John
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top