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53 Belair conv rust repair

1M views 6K replies 111 participants last post by  Eduramac 
#1 ·
I just brought home a 1953 Chevy convertible Monday that is 100% there. 100% there except for the bottom 6 inches that is. I have always built rusty cars no one else wanted but have tried to do a quality job of repairing them on a budget.

The key wordhere is budget. I admit to being frugal but friends all say I am cheap. Whatever, for me to be able to enjoy this hobby I must be able to build the car and have my money invested, not just spent

The cost of replacement floor pans, floor braces, inner rockers, outer rockers, lower quarter panels, tow boards, trunk pan, rear pan extension, tail pan, and rear splash apron is well over 3000 dollars. That is money that will buy front suspension, rear axle, and good buildable engine. Maybe even a complete parts car.

I have basic sheet metal tools but nothing exotic. Small 3' brake, Shrinker/stretcher jaws, home made slip roll, and a home made english wheel and 110v mig welder.

My purpose here is to show the new hot rodder who is apprehensive about what he can do what is possible with a little time and patience and not much money.

Below is the patient. She has stage four cancer but we are going to try to save her. If we don't who will? :mwink:








So far I have stripped the inside, removed the front fenders and adjusted the doors. If the body shifts or moves during the build process I want to know it before everything gets welded together. Frequently checking door gaps will let me make sure it has not moved.




Tomorrow I plan to cut the toe boards loose from the front floor brace and expose the brace. The first job will be to remove the brace and reproduce it.

I hope you guys follow along and feel free to comment share thoughts, opinions, etc.

 
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#3,747 ·
OK. You guys want to laugh at me? I'll give you reason in a minute.

I think I mentioned I wanted to mount the radiator in the same rubber saddle bushing that GM used.



I laid out my lower pan and even got my wife to help me pull on the brake to bend the 3 foot angles.



The pan itself is pretty basic and would have been easy if I had a pan brake that was heavy enough to handle the 18 Ga.

All in all it, came out well. I did have to shorten one end. It was such a snug fit, assembling it would have been impossible without destroying the paint in the process.



Now for the laugh. I had the two pieces just about welded with the TIG which, I admit, I am still attempting to master.

I would weld a bit, turn the amperage down, weld a bit more and turn the amperage down more and repeat the process. I kept doing this until I got down to 10 amps and it was still way to hot.

BINGO! The light went off and I remembered the amperage for the torch switch was on the control panel and the control for the foot pedal is on the pedal itself. I had been welding this thing with the pedal set at 200 amps.:spank:

I don't know how low the pedal goes at 200 amps but I promise it is a whole lot more that the 35-40 I needed. :drunk::drunk::drunk:

John



Monday, with luck, I will tweak this thing and get the welds ground and drill the holes.

I really like this. Best of all, every piece I make new is that much pitted rusty metal I don't have to deal with......
 
#3,749 ·
Yupper, I left the rear of the pan just one inch high which does clear the outlet and drain ****

I did goof in one other area though. I designed the splash apron for the 3" thick radiator tank but designed the pan (correctly) for the 3 1/2" rubber saddle bushings. This leaves the pan hanging out the back 1/2 inch. Fortunately, I can move the apron forward and keep the radiator it the position I want it.

John
 
#3,752 ·
Now for the laugh. I had the two pieces just about welded with the TIG which, I admit, I am still attempting to master.

I would weld a bit, turn the amperage down, weld a bit more and turn the amperage down more and repeat the process. I kept doing this until I got down to 10 amps and it was still way to hot.

BINGO! The light went off and I remembered the amperage for the torch switch was on the control panel and the control for the foot pedal is on the pedal itself. I had been welding this thing with the pedal set at 200 amps.

I don't know how low the pedal goes at 200 amps but I promise it is a whole lot more that the 35-40 I needed.

John


John, I don't post too often, but always read your posts. We have all done those kind of things and will again. It is called being human:D:D
 
#3,753 ·
John, I don't post too often, but always read your posts. We have all done those kind of things and will again. It is called being human:D:D
It is good we can laugh at our "humanity." All of this car stuff is supposed to be fun. :thumbup:

I'm glad you enjoy the posts. I certainly love the hobby and the feeling of accomplishment that goes with the build. It is especially good when somebody else gets something out of it.

Hotrodder's.com has been a lot better for me than I have been for it! :)

John
 
#3,755 ·
I mated the factory splash apron and the piece I made today. This lowers the rear edge by about 2 1/2 inches and puts the bottom of the radiator about 9 1/2 inches below the water pump snout. I think I am on a roll here.



I did have to trim about 1 inch off the top of the frame rail. to make clearance for the "new" splash apron. So far so good. :D




This is going to center the radiator pretty much with the water pump and should really help me run a mechanical fan effectively. At least I hope so.

 
#3,757 ·
Yes I am Mitch. That is exactly what I am going to do.

First I am going to finish the core support, the upper shroud and the end caps at the end of the grill so all the air has to go through the radiator. Then I will pick the strongest area and place the cushions.

I see no problem with it sitting on wooden blocks until I have a strong structure built that can support the front clip.

John
 
#3,759 ·
Just throwing out an idea here, but rather than cutting the frame down more, you could weld these to the inside of the frame and mount the rad pan to them. These are replacement rear body mount brackets for 64-67 A body...



OK, I already see the problem with that plan...the pan sits too low between the rails. Maybe incorporate them in the center of the frame horn ?
 
#3,760 ·
But you make a good point. Placing a mount inside, outside or on the frame rail is all a possability. If it falls on top of the frame, I will have to provide access in the frame, of course. As I mentioned earlier, I believe I will finish the inner fenders and valances and then choose the best spot.

Also, I would like to hold the bumper and braces up in place and get a feel for how to work them in. That is the main reason I have been so slow to lop off the front frame horns.

We are definitely thinking along the same lines.

John
 
#3,763 ·
True, Not only are they much narrower, they are pretty complex.

I am thinking I can build a bracket to catch the origional "inner legs" that connects to the front cross member and, maybe put a caged nut in the end of the frame rail to catch the brace that is parralel to the bumper. If that will work it is going to require careful trimming and boxing of the frame horn.

John
 

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#3,765 ·
I began making the radiator surround today. I want to make sure all the air that comes through the grill has to go through the radiator to get out. I also want to design it in such a way that hot air under the hood does not easily recirculate through the radiator.

This first transition piece was challenging as it has odd curves and angles to deal with. Hopefully the other side will go a little quicker.







The second piece was much more straight forward and I believe the filler piece between it and the radiator will be even easier.

 
#3,767 ·
According to my measurements, I am OK on both. There is plenty of room between the hood latch and the radiator. If I have any concern, it is making sure I have good air flow up to the top of the radiator.

After I finish the other side transition, I will make the upper shroud to be sure it clears the latch and hood sides. It is close but I have checked it numerous times........fingers are crossed. :D

John
 
#3,768 ·
John, just a few ramblings...

Can you-

Use a short water pump? You mentioned using a John Long one.

Tolerate a modern alum/plastic rad with much thinner core?

Use a taller narrower core and locate it slightly lower and more forward?

Chop away the bottom front of the core pocket except for the mount areas and bolt a spring loaded plastic air dam from a late model to the bottom?

Do that air dam and make your own pretty bumper in a skinnier style like 2nd gen pony cars used? So more air can get past the bumper.

Create perhaps a 1/2 or 3/4" grille-to-body spacer? To be painted or chromed.

Bump out the front lips of the sheet metal to allow mounting the grill slightly farther out?

Do an experiment to see just how much firewall damage would be required for how much real estate? Certainly there are other factors on that as well.

Just thoughts. Honestly I believe that while the radiator you chose would be great to run, it may not be the best choice in light of the mock up. Changing that one thing might eliminate much drama. I realize you can build around anything but didn't know if you had considered getting air from under the bumper too.
 
#3,775 ·
Just a quick update so everyone knows I have been getting my five minutes a day in.

I finished the driver's side transition piece but just couldn't stand to look at those rusty spots behind the grill any longer.



I would still like to get better fenders but actually these were pretty repairable....at least in this area.




This just makes the whole thing more pleasant to work on. :)

John

 
#3,777 ·
I really don't know if turbulance would be a problem or not Mitch. I have wondered myself.

In any case, there are two baffles that go from the grill and angle back toward the radiator. I am going to modify them so they funnel the air directly into the core.

Hopefully these pictures will give you an idea of where I am going.







I have debated whether or not to modify the end caps to funnel fresh air into the car outside the engine compartment. (outside the inner fender). It would actually stay cooler than the way the factory did it. That decision is going to be made at a later date.

John
 
#3,779 ·


Now that I have a square opening to work with I have started making my upper core support. I have to have it and the grill in place in order to build the upper shroud.





I am making this to hold the origional "saddle" mounts the Camaro used. This allows the radiator to be isolated from vibrations and stresses.

I'll get the other end done and stick a grill back on her.

John

 
#3,780 ·
Progress is slowly being made. The upper radiator support is built and the filler panels are in that go above the curved lower panels.

This is the first time I have had the actual radiator in the car but I am enthusiastic about what I am seeing.



I have 1 1/2 inches between the fan blade and the core so there is room for a flex fan if needed.



The grill, inner fender panels, and splash apron are all bolted in with all the hardware so it is getting pretty strong at this point.

John
 
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