Can anyone tell me whats involved in swapping in a injected 5.0 and T5 tranny into a 53 F100? I know the motor swap itself will be simple but what about the tranny? Also, I can get a 8.8 rearend from a fox body stang for nothing, is it to narrow for the trucks? Thanks.

If you have the Ford T-5 then it is no big deal as it is all stock parts..Drive-shaft will most likely be the only thing that will have to be made up..motor mounts can be the universal ones from speedway..Just have to be careful to lift all the computers and wiring harnesses from the donor car..the computers and harnesses will work just fine...

On the rear end I have no idea..take a tape and measure the overall hub to hub..that should tell the tale..probably will need to relocate the spring mounts on the housing I would guess..at least with my luck that will need to be done..

All in all a fairly straight forward deal..

Sam

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If it don't work it ain't pretty!!!!

Thanks for the reply. What about the clutch linkage? I know they have a clutch cable. Thanks again.

I suggest a 59 - 60 or so F-100 truck rear end. It is almost a direct bolt in ... it is a 9 inch ... so there are lots of gear ratios available and ... the wheel pattern is the same as the original truck so your wheels will match ...

I do have a 9" housing from a unknown vehicle but it`s just the bare housing. I`m pretty sure it`s 60" fron flange to flange. I just thought if the mustang rearend was the right length I could just swap the entire drivetrain over. I don`t have wheels picked out yet so bolt pattern isn`t a concern at this point. I`m not sure if I`m even going to do the swap yet but I`m seriously thinking about it. It has a 390/C6 in it now that I don`t plan to leave in it. I`m either going to put a small block chevy in it or the injected 5.0 mustang motor. I`m a chevy guy so I`m leaning towards the sbc but I loved the way my old 89 mustang ran and I figured I could get good performance and still get decent mileage. Thanks again guys.

Since I use hydraulic linkage most of the time dunno about this cable deal..Now the Jeep cherokee has the hydraulic clutch in it and you may be able to get the whole clutch brake pedal assy with the cylinders from one of those and make it work in your pickup..Worth a look anyway..

Sam

__________________
If it don't work it ain't pretty!!!!

The factory 8.8 posi rear end will be fine if it meets the width requirements. I think it might be 3" wider than your original, wheel to wheel. Depends on the wheels you want and the ride height.

Cable clutch is preferred. Pedal is easily adaptable.

Trans mount is about 2 inches farther back, I think.
The '90 up has a slightly stronger rated transmission.

Use the modern yoke and u-joints when making a driveshaft.

As you surmise, the engine swap is easy. The wiring is a piece of cake.

The brick should easily get 22 on the highway with the A/C on.
But you must realize that the stock 5.0 makes 260 hp on the engine dyno, and about 225 in the chassis, and about 195 at the tires. But it is geared well with the 3.35 ratio first gear. More than 3.55 in the differential gets too low for using first gear on the street. 11.89 ratio!

Been there, done that, several times.