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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 10-14-2013, 09:44 AM
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Nice work! I have to ask though, it appears your frame crossmembers are not tied into the rockers, is there a reason? This seems like it would make the body "float" as both the body and frame are attached separately to the floor and will flex because of it...

Russ

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Originally Posted by HrdNox View Post
A little more progress: Top done,glass out being cut,bottom all stitch welded and ground.Booster,a/c fitted.Steering column was a little long but worked out ok.Fenders blasted fixed up and POR'ed / epoxy primed.Body now back from blaster.Will spray frame a satin (like suspension) and belly w/lizard skin?

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 10-14-2013, 09:51 AM
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body reinf.

When I did the 5.0 capri I ran 1 X 1 1/2 tube inboard next to the rockers and put in crosmember for more seat support and for mounting points for the roll cage. It really helped to stiffen up the body having a ladder section on both sides.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 10-16-2013, 03:01 AM
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In the first picture,we used a 3/16 90 degree angle iron that is 3.5”x 3.5”, that is alternately rosette welded all the way down to the inner rocker. The inner rocker, which we fabricated, is 18 gauge sheet metal with vertical ribs to enhance strength on a vertical plane.
The inner rocker was welded to the outer rocker, quarter panel, A pillar, and B pillar
The main floor pieces are 3/16 plate. They sit underneath the angle iron.
The floor pieces are welded to the frame and then completely welded to the angle iron. They are then connected to the firewall and rear floor of the body. The rear floor of the body is welded to the tubs, etc.
The 2nd picture shows the floor UNDERNEATH the angle iron from the rocker.
The 3rd picture then shows a strip that bridges over the outer rocker, the inner rocker, and the angle iron on the scuff plate area of the car.
The other 2 pictures show how it connects to the firewall and quarter.

Picture the weight of the body pushing down on the rockers. The rockers, welded to the angle iron, pushes down, but since it is on TOP of the floor, it has to push down on the floor to be able to move. The rear crossmember goes completely to the inner rocker area. Therefore it sits under the angle iron by over 3 inches as seen in the 5th picture. You can see the evidence of the angle iron to floor weld in the primer and see that it sits 3” PAST that. So now the rocker is pushing down on the frame. 3/16 plate is VERY difficult to flex .The distance between that and the front crossmember where it’s welded to the floor is approximately 5”. So therefore it has only 5 inches to flex that 3/16 plate, but in order to do so, it would have to flex the firewall. And since the firewall is vertical, it’s not very capable of flexing that way.

Also, by doing this we are able to weld the cage directly to the frame making it impossible to flex the car.

I hope this makes sense through my explanation. Because of the questions, we’ll cap the rear crossmember and put a spacer in between the front one and the floor. As you can see in the picture, that will eliminate any possible flex in that 5” area (even though it wouldn’t) and you can also see that the spacer will also be sitting under the angle iron.Oh,the reason the front member has a dip/notch is because it was going to be a body on frame car.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 10-16-2013, 03:05 AM
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These last two show how it is attached to the firewall /quarter.One more thing,
The rocker has been filled with structural foam. Not sure whats going on with these pics....
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Last edited by HrdNox; 10-16-2013 at 03:09 AM. Reason: Why not
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 10-16-2013, 05:06 AM
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One more try thats it.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 10-16-2013, 05:15 AM
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One more try thats it.

LOL, This is cool. no wonder they ran you off the Hamb . You certainly have thought this through. Good job.

John
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 10-16-2013, 07:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HrdNox View Post
I guess not.Suppose the cage gave someone cardiac arrest.Looks like i'm here to stay.
Congratulations, I hear pacemaker sales for HAMB members went after you posted. Sometimes I lurk around the HAMB just to watch...kinda like driving past a train wreck. I really can't believe how self righteous that site is...tough on some members but, actually, a little comical from the outside looking in.

I've been following this thread and love what your doing, clean, very clean and keep the posts coming.

Ray
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 10-16-2013, 07:21 AM
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Hamb info

There is some good tech info on the hamb, I printed off the part numbers for Napa stuff to rebuild the Lincoln drum brakes,and how to have self adjusting chevy wagon brakes inside your 40's ford. and various buick fin drum brake swaps. they need to shave a seperate area for for sale and wanted and their search engine isn't very good.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 10-16-2013, 07:23 AM
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a ban from the hamb should be worn like a badge of honor.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 10-16-2013, 08:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timothale View Post
There is some good tech info on the hamb, I printed off the part numbers for Napa stuff to rebuild the Lincoln drum brakes,and how to have self adjusting chevy wagon brakes inside your 40's ford. and various buick fin drum brake swaps. they need to shave a seperate area for for sale and wanted and their search engine isn't very good.
You are right though. There is a wealth of knowledge on the Hamb, and I personally like many of the low buck projects since I am on a pretty tight budget. The issue is strictly with the attitude.

Who gets the authority to decide what is Hamb appropriate. The same people who don't realize wide whites are antique tires and no one would have been caught dead with them in the day on their rod or custom. I am not knocking wide whites but only pointing out that they are a modern style and not what anyone wanted "in the day".

Sorry HrdNox. Did not mean to steal your thread.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 10-16-2013, 09:36 AM
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Gotta love a turbo!
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by HrdNox View Post
One more try thats it.
Thanks for the pix and explanation, there's always more than one way to git 'er done. I'm just not used to seeing crossmembers stopping short of the rockers. BTW, are you gonna seal the openings so water and debris won't get inside them?

Russ
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 10-16-2013, 11:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S10xGN View Post
Nice work! I have to ask though, it appears your frame crossmembers are not tied into the rockers, is there a reason? This seems like it would make the body "float" as both the body and frame are attached separately to the floor and will flex because of it...

Russ



This is a first for me too.. Never seen it done this way before..I tie all mine into the inter rocker..Your doing a clean job..
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2013, 11:56 AM
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Subcribed.

Looking good.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 10-22-2013, 03:15 AM
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Ok,another update FROM MY BUD JOSH @ Nudeez Customs in Utah.Just to clear that up.He is a buddy with whom I used to work with years ago.I got out and he stayed in and opened his own shop.I went overseas.Been 9+ years now.Sorry for the confusion.Anyway here it is...
"Friday update is a little late cause I wanted to finish unmasking the car for you to see. We capped that rear crossmember that ties into the floor that you were talking about. We also did a little support for the front crossmember. It sits right under the angle iron also so you should be good to go.

We RustSeal’d the entire car. It is a different brand of POR15 that I like better. Then we coated the car with epoxy. After that, we seam-sealed the whole floor on the underside. We sanded the frame rails and front roll cage bars smooth and painted them with a polyurethane. That’s another industrial product that is stronger than normal urethanes, won’t chip like powdercoat, and is smooth unlike powdercoat. The gloss level is perfect for the car and contrasts with the floor good. We didn’t need to mask off or sand the black in between because it has a 4 day window to recoat. Doing it this way keeps cost down.

We masked off the frame rails and Rhino lined the underside. I loaded it on thick. it looks good and will help with sound isolation. Pain in the *** to unmask but it looks great. We also Rust Seal’d and painted the rearend.

The car is ready for suspension and to be put on the ground."
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 10-22-2013, 12:41 PM
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Gotta love a turbo!
 

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Nice! I hope to get that far on my Rambler before spring.

Russ
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