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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 03-24-2013, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 496CHEVY3100 View Post
tried to post some pictures today ,having problems ,only shows about size of a postage stamp,i will have to get my grandaughter to show ne how to fix it LOL


Hope these come thru ,these are top of bed where sheet metal joins handmade roll and lips 1st is before lower stake pocket was finished welded for compairson. and the bottom rail between side panels ,i am considering cutting slits and installing Flush mounted LED taillights ,then leave off back bumper and add a roll pan ,Any Ideas.also this is how we did my wheel tubs for tire clearance .i can now ron 12 in tires no rubbing an all of tire is under fenders
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 03-24-2013, 04:45 PM
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Well thesedidnt come thru last photo is during disassembly before paint,note tailgate does not have any letters i am saving that panel for something a little different

David
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Old 03-29-2013, 12:33 PM
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Where did you put your battery? I put my radiator hoses on. I need to do trans lines and battery than I'm just about ready to fire the motor up.
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Old 03-29-2013, 12:54 PM
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Where did you put your battery? I put my radiator hoses on. I need to do trans lines and battery than I'm just about ready to fire the motor up.
I put it under floor on passenger side to keep cables short as possible with an access door under carpet which will be held down with hook & loop where I can have remove or replace if nessasary ,Got my Locar shifter today cant wait to get it installed,,Post some pictures of your truck when you can .
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Old 03-29-2013, 01:26 PM
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54 chevy

I have cut my frame and mounts off . thanks a lot first time
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 03-29-2013, 06:57 PM
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I didn't use factory mounts there were to small for the battery I have to run ,I made mine from 1-1/4 in angle iron then welded it to the frame,then cut a hole in floor to match battery box since I have replaced my floor with sheet metal, I looked thru my pictures but none show the access door very well ,I will be working on new shifter and Guages tomorrow I will try to remember to take some photos,
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Old 03-29-2013, 09:32 PM
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I'm thinking about putting my battery up under the bed right behind the cab. Maybe a drop down box? I'm using the column shift from the S15 for my 700r4 trans just to be different.
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Old 03-29-2013, 09:34 PM
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sp4Ham. Did you cut your frame yet to shorten the frame? You know the frame slides together.
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Old 03-29-2013, 11:36 PM
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54 chevy

No haven't cut the frame . I was told to cut the front and rear
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Old 03-30-2013, 12:09 AM
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Have you been following along with some of the other post? I assume you are using aS10 frame. Wht wheel base is the frame and what wheel base is your AD truck. Usually to make them match you have to shorten or lengthen the frame. The S10 frames are 2 piece and slide together. To change the length you would grind or cut welds, adjust frmae length and weld back together.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 03-30-2013, 05:05 AM
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If you use a long bed s10 /s15 you do not shorten or lengthen the frame ,The s10 is 118 in wb the 54 is 117 wb BUT if you do not cut the frame it will center your rear tires in fender opening,if you look at the truck from the side look at rear wheels the factory is not centered until it has a load on it,because of the way the spring perches are mounted ,with the s10 they will be centered and remain centered loaded or empty,you only need to cut the frame 1 INCH in front of sterring box then cut passengers side to match then weld a plate on front to mount bumper ,,on rear after bed is mounted cut frame about 2 in forward of the tailgate then bumper will fit correct ,no welding required on rear,i will try to post picture im having problems posting,,,If you use a short bed s10 cut EXACTLY 11 IN OF REAR move the left to the right side ,then move the right to the left and weld them back on ,this moves the rear mount to the rear the correct amount then cut rivets on move front spring perches back to match yhe spring you have mounted ,I thinh it is 8 in you can tell when you get it slid back ,
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Old 03-30-2013, 09:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 496CHEVY3100 View Post
If you use a long bed s10 /s15 you do not shorten or lengthen the frame ,The s10 is 118 in wb the 54 is 117 wb BUT if you do not cut the frame it will center your rear tires in fender opening,if you look at the truck from the side look at rear wheels the factory is not centered until it has a load on it,because of the way the spring perches are mounted ,with the s10 they will be centered and remain centered loaded or empty,you only need to cut the frame 1 INCH in front of sterring box then cut passengers side to match then weld a plate on front to mount bumper ,,on rear after bed is mounted cut frame about 2 in forward of the tailgate then bumper will fit correct ,no welding required on rear,i will try to post picture im having problems posting,,,If you use a short bed s10 cut EXACTLY 11 IN OF REAR move the left to the right side ,then move the right to the left and weld them back on ,this moves the rear mount to the rear the correct amount then cut rivets on move front spring perches back to match yhe spring you have mounted ,I thinh it is 8 in you can tell when you get it slid back ,
I have cut the front and the cab mounts . haven't had the time to do much more . new to this online Thank you
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 03-30-2013, 03:42 PM
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I have cut the front and the cab mounts . haven't had the time to do much more . new to this online Thank you
if you make your cab mounts this is an easy way ,take a piece of 2x4 x1/4 tubing cut a piece abiyt 1 ft long ,then cut it from corner to corner leaving you a chanel to weld a plate on top of the cut piece to make your cag and bed mounts clamp in position and mark holes to be drilled ,I ysed 7/16 bolts 3/4 heads grade 5 bolts then mark and drill holes in frame I used 7/16 there also you can reuse factory rubber bushings ,,place a 4x4 between frame and cab before you start ,you can remove it after you get holes drilled ,this just keeps it level and the right height to mount cab and bed ,on front fenders you can re use the original ,just cut them off and switch sides, here is a rough drawing trying to explain ,Im no draftsman. Hope this helps.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 04-04-2013, 08:19 AM
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I'm thinking about putting my battery up under the bed right behind the cab. Maybe a drop down box? I'm using the column shift from the S15 for my 700r4 trans just to be different.
I also used a s10 column ,but now on this rebuild I cut off the tab for linkage under hood and shaved shift lever ,than painted it gray which is what color I will be using since I painted it red ,,it was blue interior, I now installed a Lokar shifter and Classic gauges ,have a matching tach from Classic not instslled yet,
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 04-06-2013, 10:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 496CHEVY3100 View Post
if you make your cab mounts this is an easy way ,take a piece of 2x4 x1/4 tubing cut a piece abiyt 1 ft long ,then cut it from corner to corner leaving you a chanel to weld a plate on top of the cut piece to make your cag and bed mounts clamp in position and mark holes to be drilled ,I ysed 7/16 bolts 3/4 heads grade 5 bolts then mark and drill holes in frame I used 7/16 there also you can reuse factory rubber bushings ,,place a 4x4 between frame and cab before you start ,you can remove it after you get holes drilled ,this just keeps it level and the right height to mount cab and bed ,on front fenders you can re use the original ,just cut them off and switch sides, here is a rough drawing trying to explain ,Im no draftsman. Hope this helps.
I thought i would be on my truck by now I got problem with a 93 Z28 cannot get it idle down the rpm our at 2000 i have change change everything i have check everything i can think its got pulling my hair out
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