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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 03-06-2010, 11:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Studebaker
It amazes me that anyone would use a GM rearend in anything with any torque or horsepower. Even in general use the GM 10 (and 12) bolt is prone to Failure. Most failures involve pinion coming apart or axle breakage resulting in severe vehicle damage. By the time you modify a GM rear end to survive, you could have saved time and a lot of money and updated to a Ford 9" inch and be done and forget about it. The 9" is simple, heavy duty, and easy to maintain and service. There are hundreds gear or diff upgrades availible. The 9" is just the standard of the hot rod industry. Case closed.
i learned that the hard way...

before i really new anything about rear ends, i decided to change my 10 bolt gears to 4.10's with my 327 screamer. turns out the axel bearings were shot and wore the axles down, posi was broken, etc. i put $2000 into that 10 bolt wish i would have spend a smidgen more on a 9"... ughh.


but a 9" will for sure find a home in my car.

btw... some people keep telling me that my 10 bolt will only survive X amount of HP... isn't it torque output and shock that will kill a differential??? that is my idea behind building a high end HP 540 rather than a torque monster.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 03-07-2010, 01:08 AM
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I'm thinkin' that it's a matter of hookin' up. If the tires are spinnin', they act like a mechanical circuit breaker to prevent damage to the rest of the system. But once you hook 'em up, the weakest link in the drivetrain is gonna blow.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 03-07-2010, 10:15 PM
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what if you are already going 70mph? i can't say for sure, but it should hook at that speed if i mash the gas... but will things still fail? all the parts are already moving, so shouldn't there be a much less likely chance for failure?
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 03-07-2010, 10:50 PM
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I was going 60-70,(app),shifting from 3rd to 4th,when my 7.5 blew up,sure brought the Monte to a real quick stop !!!
Guy
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Old 03-07-2010, 11:05 PM
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that sure must have been a little scary! i guess i will have to try and sell it seen as how i have $2000 into it....

couldn't i put in a slightly above stockish clutch to absorb some shock? cus i know that a proper clutch for my app is like a stage III type deal.


So i know what i have to do about the diff....

As for the motor build, there are some new eagle esp h-beams 6.385" with l-19 rod bolts for $450 on ebay ($560 from summit). i would like to know if they are good to 7000ish with 600-800hp.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 03-07-2010, 11:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Guy Hiltz
I was going 60-70,(app),shifting from 3rd to 4th,when my 7.5 blew up,sure brought the Monte to a real quick stop !!!
Guy
i was trying to take off from a light on the highway, i didn't try to take to hard cause i knew i wouldn't hook, but BAM, a whole bunch of metal to metal sounds and the car went no ware. as i tried to push the car off the highway into a parking lot, the passenger side tire and axle cam out about 8 inches and there was gear oil all over the road. and as i mentioned before when i finally got it home and pulled the diff cover, the bottom of the pumpkin was nothing but metal soup, dont really know what part broke first, but everything was pretty well gouged, chewed or completely tore up
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 03-07-2010, 11:38 PM
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I would plain old not run a 7.5 ten bolt behind your big block. Under any circumstances.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 03-07-2010, 11:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biscuit6447
that sure must have been a little scary! i guess i will have to try and sell it seen as how i have $2000 into it....

couldn't i put in a slightly above stockish clutch to absorb some shock? cus i know that a proper clutch for my app is like a stage III type deal.


So i know what i have to do about the diff....

As for the motor build, there are some new eagle esp h-beams 6.385" with l-19 rod bolts for $450 on ebay ($560 from summit). i would like to know if they are good to 7000ish with 600-800hp.
A McLeod Sof-Loc clutch package would help as you can control it's initial bite and grip, but it ain't cheap $1400-ish.

That rod would be fine, be aware that the L-19 bolt has some weird requirements - you can't touch it with you bare fingers, can't come in contact with chlorinated brake cleaner, need to be kept covered in oil to prevent reaction to your skin oils, chlorine, and they have a rather short service life. Might be a bit of overkill in the bolt department.

Last edited by ericnova72; 03-09-2010 at 12:39 AM. Reason: spelling
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 03-07-2010, 11:57 PM
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so then will that standard 6.385 esp h-beams be sufficient? i believe they have arp 2000 alloy bolts.

why would the l-19 bolts have a short service life?
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 03-08-2010, 12:37 AM
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L-19 is hard, susceptible to fatigue cracking, any surface corrosion can lead to a stress crack starting, and they "react" chemically producing surface corrosion with some common things, and thats why they are serviced out at a certain interval. The are really overkill for your plans, ARP 2000 is plenty.

Once you reach the level of using stuff like L-19 fasteners you realize that a lot of things like fasteners are consumables at that level of performance. They are no different than things like spark plugs, oil filters, valvesprings, and get replaced on a regular schedule
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Old 03-08-2010, 12:43 AM
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well that makes sense. they say they are rater at something like 230,000-260,000psi vs 200,000psi for 2000 alloy. more tensile strength=harder and brittle.

i found the "normal" esp rods on ebay for $350, so i will jump on those as my first component of this build.

good call.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 03-08-2010, 10:27 PM
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so now i need help deciding on some pistons.

I am not going to be using nitrous of forced induction.

looking for close to or at 11:1 CR with brodix bb-2 xtra heads. (119cc chambers)

i haven't decided on a block yet, but it will be a dart big m or a merlin III (9.8 deck, 4.5-4.6 bore) i am checking ebay for the best deal so i don't know the exact bore size i will be using.

I will use a lunati sledgehammer crank and eagle esp h-beams rods (6.385")

i am thinking either wiseco, JE, SRP, mahle, or KB. looking for forged, but i don't need any super fancy ceramic top coated diamond racing pistons. i don't mind $500-$800 for pistons.

help appreciated!

josh.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 03-09-2010, 12:41 AM
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Probe makes a nice piston for the money too, real nice.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 03-09-2010, 05:50 AM
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Your most budget oriented solution would be to cut your losses and pay the $40.

Have you considered a 632? http://www.usaperform.com/block-rota...ons-p-915.html


http://www.usaperform.com/engine-sho...ies-c-153.html

http://limerock.racingjunk.com/categ...-Callies-.html

Shane
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 03-09-2010, 12:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chevrolet4x4s
Your most budget oriented solution would be to cut your losses and pay the $40.

Have you considered a 632? http://www.usaperform.com/block-rota...ons-p-915.html


http://www.usaperform.com/engine-sho...ies-c-153.html

http://limerock.racingjunk.com/categ...-Callies-.html

Shane
I have considered a 632, but i have to stick with a short deck because of the car this is going in.

What do you mean by pay the $40?


but i will decide on pistons one i get a block. I am trying to get a 4.5" bore so that i have room for expansion over the years.
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