Here are a few more pics of the process so far. The steering box area is something I will have to work around, but hopefully, it will go OK. I do know that I am just using the bottom two bolts to secure the power steering box onto the frame. I trimmed off the top bolt boss and another boss located on top of the steering box. I had to eliminate the top bolt after locating the core support mounting brackets with my jig I made before I cut the original truck frame. I need to pull the core support off of my other truck and see what modifications I will need to make. Like they say, beat to fit and paint to match, or something like that! I have a bunch of pictures, but they are too large to post. I need to figure out something else to reduce the file size. I set my camera on the lowest setting possible, and most of the pics are still too large.

On another note, my bare frame I am working with is a '58 frame, not a '56 frame that I thought it was. I found out the very front of the frame in front of the core support brackets is 2-3/4" longer than the 55-57 frames. I still need to trim off the front frame rails and re-drill the holes for the front bumper. The pictures show the front frame rails temporarily located with my jig. They may look a little long, only because they are!

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Kurt,

I will try and attach a link to the photoalbum that I recently updated that shows my mock-up of the front radiator support location with the Monte Carlo front clip. My front sway bar brackets front bolt that bolt to the Monte frame want to be in almost the exact same location as where my 1955 cage nut for the radiator support needs to be. I left them riveted to the original 1955 frame ends. The pictures are in "1955 Truck Project 2". Hopefully you can make out where I am at. Thanks, Ed

1955 Truck Progress Pics

Kurt,

I was able to attach some more pictures on the core support area in my photo page (1955 Truck Project 2). I worked on the truck today and mocked up the radiator support at the steering box to see where I needed to get clearance. I was able to use a 4-1/2" hole saw to cut the radiator support to clear the end of the steering box. I did verify with some other guys that had stock 1955-56 frames that the centerline of the radiator support to the centerline of the 1/2" reference hole in the top of the frame (center of front axle) was 17-1/2", so I went ahead and welded everything up for the front frame ends with radiator support brackets. I am going to box in the frame ends of the Monte clip, and make a bracket to attach to the top of the steering box to secure it to the top of the frame, since I had to eliminate the top steering box bolt mount.

I am also going to work on the sway bar mounts. I used longer #10 - 1.5 pitch (metric) bolts x 4" that thread into the bottom of the Monte frame, and installed spacers (3/4" EMT conduit x 2") to locate the sway bar 2" down vertically from where it mounts to the frame. I will use the existing back bolt location, and slot the front hole in the front sway bar bracket and use a nut to thread onto the bottom of the radiator support bracket bolt (7/16" fine thread) to hold the front of the sway bar bracket. I had to use a 3-1/2" long 7/16" fine thread bolt and add extra threads using a die to secure the front radiator support. This allowed the bolt to extend through the cage nut in the frame and have length for the 7/16" nut to secure the sway bar bracket. The sway bar bracket front hole lines up almost directly under the radiator support bracket, but not quite. The sway bar bracket front hole is located about 1/8" inside, and 3/16" behind the radiator support mount bolts. I also made 3/16" thick plate 2" x 4" that will sandwich in between the EMT spacer and the sway bar bracket to support the rubber bushing. That will get me finished up for the technical difficulties of the steering box area! I will try and get more finished up tomorrow. Later
Ed

http://www.my.opera.com/Oleblue55/albums/

Ed, heres that pic of the steering mount.

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I went out and measured my rolling chassis, and the best I can tell is that I am about 46-3/4"-47" from the centerline of the radiator support bracket to the front edge of the front cab support mount. This is by eyeballing only, and didn't shoot a lazer line for more exact measurements. It was tough getting my tape measure between the sway bar link, front spring and where the centerline of the radiator support brackets were. It will be interesting to see where you come out.

I think that if I have to push the radiator support out, I will modify the lower mounts on the radiator support itself. I will figure out a way to weld an extension to the bottom mounts, and slot the bolt holes for adjustment. It sounds like I may be too far back to the cab, but really I need to mount my cab and start fitting sheet metal to determine exactly where I need to be. Again, I wonder if I should have kept the 18-1/2" dimension that was aligned with my jig on the 59 frame. That would have put me 1" further out. Go figure!

Ed, I am at 47 1/4" at the leading edge of the hole measuring from the cab mount surface.

Looking at the photos of the steering box and how far yours pokes thru the radiator support compared to mine you may be right. It looks like at least an inch or more though.

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I spent some quality time on the truck this past weekend and bolted on the cab and bed to see if everything will fit. The core support area was dead on, which is what I was worried about. The ride height is exactly what I wanted, and especially with 17" wheels, should be just right. I'll see if I can attach a few pics.

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Looks Great!!! Here are the shock pics before and after.

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Do you still have the ready rod in the front end cranking it down??

Yea, the cross member has about 6" clearance underneath when it is on a flat surface. It looks about the same as yours, although it is in the grass, and the ground was starting to thaw when I tried to move it around the side of the house! Right now the front wheels are 14" P215-75R tires, and the backs are 15" P235-75R. They were just some tires left over from the Monte and the Nova that I got for the rearend. I was trying to get it moved around to the concrete slab and work on it, but couldn't get it moved any further. I will have to wait until the ground firms up a bit more.

I will have to modify the rear axle brackets just like you did, it looks like yours worked out great with the shocks you are using. By the way, what shocks ARE you using!

They are the shocks that were on it when I bought it. I will replace them when I take it apart to paint everything. It is nice to be able to use stock parts so replacements aren't an issue in the future.

Hey Ed Check out how the rear end turned out.

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That looks great, did you use 3" -1/4" wall to notch the frame? The upper shock mount worked nice. I see where you made end plates for it to bolt right in place. What did you use for materials on that? The frame looks good painted up. One last question!, are those 8" wheels on the rear and are they 3-1/2" back spacing? I know you said at one time, but I forgot.

I didn't get a thing done on mine this past weekend, my time was spent at volleyball games watching my daughter, which was fun also. I do have my engine on the engine stand checking clearances on the bearings. So far, everything on the bottom end looks great. I am debating just installing new main and rod bearings with a new oil pump and considering the bottom end good. I am still unsure on the top end, weather or not to go '96 up Vortec heads and mild cam. I guess I will determine that when I take my 1988 heads in to have checked. Again, I am not wanting to put alot in this engine, just something to have V-8 sound, decent mileage, and move the truck down the road. I really would like to eventually go with a LS1 with 4L60E tranny setup out of a pickup. First things first, my money needs to be spread out on just getting the truck together and working for now!
Its good to see your progress, it helps me keep digging! Thanks for the update.

Yes it's 3" 1/4 wall. The back spacing on the rear rims is 4" and they are 10" wheels with 255/60-r15 tires. I had to roll the wheel wells with a baseball bat to get them to clear. Ten inch wheels are too wide but at the time that is all I have. They are from my Camaro. I did get the drive shaft made, replaced the wheel cylinders, brake shoes and ran my rear brake lines this weekend. If it would quit snowing I would have more time to work on it.

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