I am planning to use a 78 camero sub frame anything i should know about this before I fire up the plasma cutter ?

It has been done and works fine. If you search this site you will find alot of info. Good luck with your project.

I thought I would attach some more details of the crossmember frame notch that I did on the G-Body Monte Carlo frame clip that I am installing on my 1955 Chevy Truck. I am using a 5.3 LS motor with 2001 Camaro oil pan setup and stock exhaust manifolds. I decided that I wanted to be able to install the engine and transmission together, so I notched the crossmember and welded in 1/4" plate to box it in. I didn't want to notch my oil pan since I am not experienced at aluminum welding, so I did the crossmember. I didn't have any problems installing the engine/tranny combo together. The 1-1/2" deep notch worked great. I notched it to have 10" width of clearance.

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I thought I would also attach some more pics of the engine and transmission finally going in to check clearances using the stock manifolds. I am using a 700-R4 transmission with the 6.0 flexplate attached to the 5.3. I had to elongate the holes 3/16" for the converter to bolt up to the flexplate. I am using a 1978 Camaro crossmember for the transmission mount, and it slides perfectly into the stock C-channel 1955 truck frame.

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Ed,

Looks like you will be driving it soon. Nice work.

Kurt

Ed,

Here is the youtube video my youngest made with the 56. It was kind of a rainy day but turned out ok. Kids sure catch on to technology fast.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HS19sOgJEIo

Waaaay Cool! Definitely inspiration to get mine on the road!

I am using a G-body subframe on my 54 1/2 ton. If you have not already done so you might consider changing out the front coils with some new ones. The old coil on my truck were the weak ones with .672 coil diameter. I changed them out for a pair of Moog #5662 coils.

You might look at the information on this link to identify a spring that will work for you.

http://jeffd.50megs.com/Moog_Spring_Page.htm

The 5662 spring actually gave me a little more ride height (+.75) than I had which was what I wanted. Those old coils were really soft.

I agree the springs in mine are kind of soft. I did install sensatrac spring over front shocks. That raised it about a 1/2 inch and did firm it up. I may swap out the springs with new ones and switch back to regular shocks. Great info thank you.

Here is a pic to show the physical difference between the old spring and the new shorter, thicker, stronger spring. Took it out for a short drive last night and the reduction in body roll is amazing and the ride quality is great. Wish I had done this a year ago.

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Got a 57 Chevy PU, gonna use the G body/S10 frame. Rodder18 you really kicked me into gear on mine. I put it in the shop this morning. Planning on the the same rear end flip this week. After that I'm ready to start on the front. But, I can't find any decent pics of where you tie your frame in.
I was planning on boxing the 57 frame where I cut up the front to have more welding area, then .... I'm kind of open to ideas. For sure moving the wheels forward a 1 1/2"(yours sits exactly where I want mine to be).

I have some details of my frame splicing at the website listed below. There is a direct link also on page two of this thread. Good luck. Rodder18 gave me the inspiration on the clip, and I haven't looked back! In a nutshell, I cut the Monte frame at the corner body mounts under the firewall. I then used a sawzall and split the frame rail into 4 sides. I set the Monte frame to height using all thread rod installed in place of the shocks. I kept 6" clearance between the floor and the underside of the crossmember. I then set the rake angle of the upper A-arm angle to 10 degrees and set the frame on jack stands to establish the ride height. There is diagonal bracing inside of the Monte frame that needs cut out so you can split the frame sides apart. I then bent the Monte frame sides out at the locations I needed to box around 3" Square tubing that I used to splice the two frames. (Monte and stock '55 Chevy truck frames) I have pictures at the website that show it better than I can explain. I am working on the engine location and mounting details right now.


http://www.my.opera.com/Oleblue55/albums/

How long does the 3x3 tubing need to be?
Fasteddie you didn't mount your 3x3 tubing on top of the 55/57 frame?

Some of the pictures were to dark so I photoshopped them where I can kind of see how there connected.

I will try and add some more pics today in my Photo Gallery on here. I centered the 3"Square on the frame. I know that Rodder18 welded his to the top of the '55 frame, and I went 1-1/2" higher, so either way will work. I cut a slit on one side using a metal cutting circular saw blade, and the width of material it cut out was perfect to slide from the inside of the C-Channel. Check out my gallery, I just posted a bunch of pictures on here that might help you out. Good luck

Sorry for not posting sooner. Have not been on here for awhile. As for the wheel base I originally posted 1 1/2 inches. But when I went back and checked the wheel base when talking with Ed and it was only moved forward 1 inch. (The first post is too old to edit or I would go back and change it) The wheel base was 114" it is now 115". As I was doing this I did not take many photos when installing the sub frame. You are right about boxing the frame first then welding the front clip to the boxed frame. I also cut the square tubing at an angle and boxed the end of it. After welding it together I welded plates to both sides. When done it has a z shape. Here is a pic from the side. In addition to the spring flip in the rear I also added a 1 1/2 inch lowering block to drop the rear just a little more. Hope this helps.

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