'55-59' Chevy Truck Frame Clip w/G-Body? - Page 4 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 09-01-2009, 10:14 PM
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Ed, here is a pic of the radiator support distance we talked about. The tape is sitting against the firewall between the ribs. As you can see it is exactly 35".
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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 09-01-2009, 10:24 PM
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Yeah, I see that, and your bolts are pretty much in line all the way across the core support also. I posted my pics on my gallery, and I am at 36"! Maybe when I get my inner fenders cut and attached to the core support, and the front fenders, maybe it may bring it to where it needs to be. This 1" difference on everything is driving my crazy! Thanks again for your help on this.
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 09-01-2009, 10:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fasteddy51
Yeah, I see that, and your bolts are pretty much in line all the way across the core support also. I posted my pics on my gallery, and I am at 36"! Maybe when I get my inner fenders cut and attached to the core support, and the front fenders, maybe it may bring it to where it needs to be. This 1" difference on everything is driving my crazy! Thanks again for your help on this.

I agree. When everything is bolted together I would think it would have to be in the same location.

Kurt
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old 09-02-2009, 07:23 PM
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slow prep

I've been rounding up tubing and plate to get this project going. I decided to make some step notches in the back first.
So in the next 30 days-
I'll start on the rear suspension, drop the springs and take some leafs out, install the step notches, tack the spring perches on the Cutlass/g body rear. Extended beer break.
Build six 36 ford strollers frames and push bars and finish for 4 with bodies and upholstered interiors.
Start taking the reusable stuff off the S10 frame before I start cutting the S10 frame.
Clean off the 57 firewall and frame/clutch stuff. Thats a good stopping point.

Gotta make trans crossmember for 46 Ford frame.
Hang sheetrock ceiling 11' high in three rooms.
Go to Memphis for NHRA mid south nationals.
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  #50 (permalink)  
Old 09-03-2009, 07:55 PM
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You can see a G body clip here to a 50 Chevy truck frame. All the steps are the same, but a 55 frame is wider, and the clip fits better

http://enjenjo.com/frameclip.html
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 09-04-2009, 06:16 AM
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photo adjustments

I lightened up some of the pics that Rodder18 posted where they're easier to see the details.
These have the 3x3 on top of the frame.
The first pic is by far the best one on how the clip should look.
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 09-04-2009, 06:19 AM
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photo confusion

These two pics have the frames lined up flush on top and I don't see a 3x3 anywhere.
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 09-05-2009, 04:52 PM
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[QUOTE=dragfrog23]These two pics have the frames lined up flush on top and I don't see a 3x3 anywhere.[/QUOTE

It depends on what you want. I wanted mine on the ground. Ed moved his up a little so it wasn't as low and the one pictured here will sit 3 inches higher than mine. As I said it all comes down to what you want. It would be easier this way because your radiator support will mount on top of the Gbody frame. The lower you go the more fabricating you have to do to make everything work. Lowered trucks look cool and are fun to drive but tall speed bumps and steep driveways suck.
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 09-05-2009, 09:55 PM
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Thanks for all the answers

Check my introduction post for a pic of my 46. That's how low I want the 57. I put 100K on it and it was a daily driver for years. From 99 to 07.
There are several 55-59 around here with nova/camaro subframe that set good in the back, but have the typical wheel offset problem up front.
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  #55 (permalink)  
Old 09-05-2009, 10:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dragfrog23
Check my introduction post for a pic of my 46. That's how low I want the 57. I put 100K on it and it was a daily driver for years. From 99 to 07.
There are several 55-59 around here with nova/camaro subframe that set good in the back, but have the typical wheel offset problem up front.

Heres a pic of your 46. If you do yours like Eds it should sit about the same. Nice car!!!!

Kurt
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  #56 (permalink)  
Old 09-13-2009, 05:53 PM
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Got the project started

Started on the rear suspension, pretty much followed along with you guys on the rear spring bracket on top and G body rear on top of the leaf springs after taking several springs out. I did drill the spring bolt hole larger and put an allen head bolt in for the spring perch alignment pin.
I did use the S10 leaf spring plates and the front shocks from the 57 fit great.
To me the c notch wasn't enough so I made a step notch. Can't wait to unbolt the rear leafs and start welding the notch in. I do plan on boxing the frame around the notch area.
I got the 17" Cragar wheels for mock up, they were pretty cheap. I do plan on having the centers reversed to my measured offset. With the right offset I won't have to cut the bed and I can stick lots of tire inside the fender. If I like how the new offset is I can get the aluminum wheels I want.
I have other responsibilities so I'm only gonna be able to work on it a little until next month.
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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 09-14-2009, 11:01 AM
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Looking good! Just a little at a time and you should keep gaining on it. I had a chance this weekend to swap out my Nova rearend to the 8.8 Ford Explorer rearend and check clearances. I am running 9.5" x 17" torq thrust wheels with 1-1/4" spacers.
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  #58 (permalink)  
Old 09-14-2009, 08:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dragfrog23
Started on the rear suspension, pretty much followed along with you guys on the rear spring bracket on top and G body rear on top of the leaf springs after taking several springs out. I did drill the spring bolt hole larger and put an allen head bolt in for the spring perch alignment pin.
I did use the S10 leaf spring plates and the front shocks from the 57 fit great.
To me the c notch wasn't enough so I made a step notch. Can't wait to unbolt the rear leafs and start welding the notch in. I do plan on boxing the frame around the notch area.
I got the 17" Cragar wheels for mock up, they were pretty cheap. I do plan on having the centers reversed to my measured offset. With the right offset I won't have to cut the bed and I can stick lots of tire inside the fender. If I like how the new offset is I can get the aluminum wheels I want.
I have other responsibilities so I'm only gonna be able to work on it a little until next month.

You will either have to raise the bed inside the box or use wheel tubs to clear the kick ups you built. Also the cross member will need some work or it will hit the drive shaft. Looks good!

Last edited by RODDER18; 09-15-2009 at 09:37 PM.
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  #59 (permalink)  
Old 09-14-2009, 10:10 PM
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rear suspension

I was planning on raising the bed some. I know I'm not using wood, I hate wood truck beds. I'm either gonna use a sheet of metal or cut out a later model truck bed(which might have to have a little splice added in factory tub area.
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  #60 (permalink)  
Old 10-30-2009, 06:29 AM
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You might look at the early S-10 truck bed floors. I didn't want to deal with wood floor issues either. I cut one out of a 92 long bed, and it will have enough material to fill out the floor in my bed, plus have the factory tubs. When you cut the width to 50", the inner wheel housings on the S10 will be around 5-6 inches. I am in the process of trimming mine up to fit my bed. I plan on welding a flange around the perimeter of the wheel housings so I can bolt my bed sides to the floor. The channel braces running underneath on the S10 are also the same height as the original 55-58 braces! I plan on bolting the floor edges under the side angles on the bed sides. I will have to shim the front and back to support the floor ends. I will add a 1/4" x 1" aluminum strip across the header piece for the front end of the floor to sit on, and do the same in back by the tailgate brace. I have a picture of my cutout section in my gallery section on this forum. Good luck!
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