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  #1561 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2009, 05:52 PM
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About headers , A friend gave me a used set of Hooker comp headers from a 68 Camaro , they fit and cleared everything on my pickup but they hung down to low under my truck so I didn't use them and bought a set of Headman hedders , they are shorties for a 64 / 65 Chevelle, they fit good but the drivers side keeps blowing out gaskets. I'm thinking about putting the manifolds back on.
Gene

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  #1562 (permalink)  
Old 12-09-2009, 04:44 AM
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Has anyone used the one piece window kits from classic chevy truck parts in missouri ? I was thiking about getting them while they are on sale for the holidays. Thanks for any info. John
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  #1563 (permalink)  
Old 12-09-2009, 06:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lil John
Has anyone used the one piece window kits from classic chevy truck parts in missouri ? I was thiking about getting them while they are on sale for the holidays. Thanks for any info. John
john - i looked on classics website to compare it with the windows i bought from brothers, but did not see them. since there is usualy only one manufacturer for most of these parts, i'll assume they are are the same.
i installed the one piece window kit from brotherstrucks.com during the summer. they do look rather sexy on my truck. i hated loosing the vent windows, but i need new vents. the price of the 1-piece was cheaper than fixing my stock windows. the installation is pretty straight forward, but i modified the install some. my comments are:
1. the anti-rattle sweeps required small screws to be used; i didn't like how they fit. they were loose, barely held themselves and fell out when the door slammed. i used 3M double side foam tape (the high speed stuff) the full length and eliminated the screws. they have not moved since.
2. after installing the interior window trim, i saw an 1/8" gap all around the window. i could see into the door, not a very professional install. i used some 3/16"x1/2'' foam weather strip all around the new window track and reinstalled the trim. looks good now.
3. tech support told me that my previously installed power windows would not work with these. now i see why they recomended against them. they drag toward the bottom, going up, but work fine.
4. they are rather loose in the down position. look at the math of putting a window this shape // down in a door this shape l l and you will understand. towards the bottom of the window they have a tilt to fit in the l l shape.
5. i have not driven my truck in the rain yet. i do not belive they will seal as well as the factory windows. i the full up the window barely fits into the window track. more // & l l math...
6. brothers website shows a darker tint than i recieved. they use to offer clear, tint & dark tint, now they only offer clear & tint.

they do look good, i would recommend them with the understanding of their imperfections.

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  #1564 (permalink)  
Old 12-10-2009, 11:03 AM
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more window math

more on the 1 piece window kit. this is to show the fit of the window vs the window track.
as the window comes down, it tilts to conform to the track
the window is cut undersized to minimize the tilt
the front track is not attached but merely a hanging guide
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  #1565 (permalink)  
Old 12-10-2009, 06:35 PM
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I like the way the one piece windows look it looks cool on your truck. I plan on my truck being a daily driver though , so I don't want any problems with leaking in my doors. I actually already purchased new vent windows for my truck but I need new "frames" for them. The piece that the glass mounts into and pivots inside. Ogre would you recomend the one piece glass for a daily driver? The one piece window kit in classic chevy truck parts website are located under door parts and then controls and regulators. thank you for your help.
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  #1566 (permalink)  
Old 12-11-2009, 04:00 PM
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john, my truck is a 3 season truck, they use salt here in the winter. i can't give you a recommendation because of the limited miles on mine. i say go for it. i believe the link is for the power kit only, not the glass. read the description. brothers had them on sale last mth when i bought mine $299 for glass, $599 for power & glass. i used a set of oem power windows from an 06 durango that i got free from a friend. it took a bit of fbricating to get them in, but they work nice
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  #1567 (permalink)  
Old 12-12-2009, 08:37 AM
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Thanks Ogre for the info. I added it up and to use the vent windows I will spend about $800 . So the one piece windows are much cheaper. but I don't want to let rain run into my doors either.Thanks for all the help again.
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  #1568 (permalink)  
Old 12-12-2009, 03:41 PM
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I haven't been on in a long time, and didn't read but a couple of pages back, but picked up a thing or two to comment on.

Nice firewall, Ogre, very well done. There are so many nicely done trucks in this thread; y'all keep up the good work.

On the header discussion, I have found, over the years, there are some unscientific, un-engineered, but fairly accurate "rules-of-thumb" regarding small block Chevy headers; they could likely be applied to any engine of similar displacement, too. On 283, and low performance 327's, basic primary size can be 1-1/2 inch, 30 inch length,and a 2-1/2 to 2-3/4 inch collector, with a 2 inch system following. Warmed up 327's, most 350's and up to 400's with a mild build can use 1-5/8 inch primaries at about 32 inches, and 3 inch collectors into a 2-1/2 or 2-3/4 inch system. Hi-perf small blocks will benefit from 1-3/4 inch primaries at 32 to 33 inches, with exhaust and muffs up to 3 inches. In our trucks, prefab or "factory made" headers for a first gen Camaro, or a second gen Nova will basically fit ok. Second gen Camaro headers will likely not have enough "drop" to clear the floor and crossmember; but all of them will probably need a bit of tweaking, depending on what engine and transmission mounts you use, and other "modification" factors. There are several makes of headers available that are designed for our trucks; Hooker has been mentioned, Hedman, Thorley, Doug's, and probably a few others, too. I like Thorley's "Tri-Y" style, myself, especially for trucks that will see work or towing duty as well as street performance. For just street performance, or street rod type stuff, regular long tube pattern headers are hard to beat. As I say, these are "rule-of-thumb" observations; there are so many variables when it comes to engine specs and levels of build, that if you want to get too technical, a flow bench analysis of your specific build would be in order. As for "shorty" and "block hugger" styles, I guess they are better than a poke with a sharp stick, and they are undoubtedly easier to build with, but I would not expect the level of performance from them that you can get from a decent set of long tubes. In real life, thump-in-the-butt reality, you might not be able to discern any real difference from one style to the other, though.

That's my seat-of-the-pants, shade tree, old school take on it. Others will have different opinions.
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  #1569 (permalink)  
Old 12-12-2009, 04:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lil John
Thanks Ogre for the info. I added it up and to use the vent windows I will spend about $800 . So the one piece windows are much cheaper. but I don't want to let rain run into my doors either.Thanks for all the help again.
i figure $900 (you always have to add shipping) but told my wife $1100 to justify the no vent windows. she realy like the vents. my windows were all chrome and at one time my truck had the deluxe trim around the cab & windshield.
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  #1570 (permalink)  
Old 12-13-2009, 05:49 AM
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I found some vent frames that are still good . These are passengers side vent window frames I'm gonna drill the rivets out of a passenger side one and put the frame on my drivers side "track/mount" piece with new rivets. I have the new rubber pieces to put it together. My windows and vents won't be chrome yet but I think it will look ok while the truck is in the body work flat black stage . For now I have to be cheap and get it on the road. I will upgrade it one way or the other when time and money allow.
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  #1571 (permalink)  
Old 12-15-2009, 09:44 AM
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the one piece glass looks really nice. not meaning to hijack thread anyone here prostreet one of these trucks? i have bed sides cut out and narrowed 9" started just want to see some pics of what people use for rear wheel tubs. the early 66-72 surburban rear wheel tubs look like a nice canidate as it has flange for wood same as bed strips( waiting for verification on a set). great thread you started DD.
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  #1572 (permalink)  
Old 12-15-2009, 10:21 AM
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The 58 is coming along!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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  #1573 (permalink)  
Old 12-15-2009, 10:43 AM
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if your going pro street, you'll probably need to tub the rearend too.
i just mini tubbed mine, just to get my tires under there

i cut the bed wall out and used the cutout to make the tub
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  #1574 (permalink)  
Old 12-15-2009, 11:58 AM
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thanks ogre should have posted this sooner i didnt do inital cuts to cleanly to use sheetmetal over
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  #1575 (permalink)  
Old 12-15-2009, 03:28 PM
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i don't think you can hijack this thread.
it's open discussion for 55-59 chevy trucks
post what you have
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