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  #1651 (permalink)  
Old 02-18-2010, 11:44 AM
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My 58 Apache!!!

Hey Richard and all the other GM truckers on the HR forum!!!

I want to begin by thanking everyone on this forum for being so active and willing to help out FNGs!!! I've had this 58 for 16 years (my first vehicle!). I ran the hell out of it till I became a Marine and spent 5yrs (3 tours Iraq). I sustained injuries and returned home in 2005. Last summer I finally saved up enough $ to do what i wanted to breathe some life back to my old friend. Motor re-build, Trans Re-build, Rear end, new mounts, etc. Lots left to do tho. I'm interested in the anti-sway bar idea!!! My father and I do great fab work so keep me posted please! Look forward to chattin with ya'll soon!!!

-Jase
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  #1652 (permalink)  
Old 02-18-2010, 06:59 PM
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Jasers glad you found us and joined in on the fun.Nice clean engine bay Looks good The sway bars are a necessity.I have front and rear sway bars and my 58 handles like a dream.I posted a design you are welcome to copy.You should also consider the traction control bars just copy the heavy duty mounts I made for them too.With that motor I know you have wheel hop under heavy acceleration. When you get around to that just ask and I will send pictures with measurements so you can make your own.I have posted them in this thread already but will help any way I can.
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  #1653 (permalink)  
Old 02-18-2010, 09:51 PM
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Caster Wedges

Hey DD-
I'm Finally swapping in the drop axle on my '59, but I'm drawing a blank as to which way the caster wedges go! I think the thick part went to the rear (positive?) but I'm not completely sure. Your thoughts?
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  #1654 (permalink)  
Old 02-18-2010, 09:56 PM
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Jasers- Wow, very cool '58! (I LOVE THE STRIPES) Welcome, and lets see some more photos!
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  #1655 (permalink)  
Old 02-19-2010, 12:05 PM
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Rusty 59.The thick part goes to the back.This will give you positive caster.End result strait line stability.This is from the article"camber caster and toe"by John Hagerman.I had to edit this today as I had posted thick part to the front.Thanks Gene for pointing out to me his drop axle is bolted under the spring.Some times I just don't pay attention to detail

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  #1656 (permalink)  
Old 02-20-2010, 10:45 PM
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Another Noob to this Forum

I have spent the past three days reading this forum from beginning to end. In the process I’ve seen some incredible work and have found inspiration and ideas for my 57. None of my friends or family shares my passion for old trucks, or driving a hotrod, or primer. Duh, maybe I need new friends. It's been a welcome change to find a bunch of people who build their own rides, and build them to actually use. I’m reminded of being 20 again, pulling all-nighters wrenching, and bench racing over breakfast.
I do have a question I hope one of you wouldn’t mind answering. I'm cutting my long bed down, and I want to make sure it ends up the exact length of a short bed. If I find a pair of short steps on Craigslist one of these days, I want them to fit. The dimension I am looking for is from the front edge of the bed to the leading edge of the fender, measured along the bottom edge of the bed side. I measured a late 70’s Chevy short narrow bed I found at Pick-A-Part yesterday and it is 80.08” overall, and I know a short bed wheelbase is 9.25” shorter, so I have done the math and figured out the dimension I’m looking for. But I would like to confirm by measuring an actual bed.
I’ve read several comments on here that Brothers seems to take forever to fill orders for glass. I work a couple of miles from their showroom, so I recently dropped in to pick up a new rear window for my 57. The counter guy told me they don't keep the glass in stock, but order it when they sell it. It took 5 weeks for them to get mine in. It was during Christmas though. Seven years ago I experienced a similar delay when I was buying my 1-piece door glass. On the other hand, they've always had every other part I've wanted in stock.
I do have one opinion I would like to share regarding crimp connectors for wiring. I strongly suggest not using crimp connectors for any reason. Solder and shrink tubing makes a better connection. I realize that a poor solder joint is no better than a poor crimp connector. But once you learn to solder properly, it is easier than crimping. The past few weeks I have been replacing every crimp connector on my friends recently completed, “professionally built” 55 Chevy Bel Air. LS-1, 4L60e, Ron Francis wiring kit, Vintage Air, etc. etc. Beautiful car. But the guy who installed the wiring butchered it. Crimps were falling off, most of the gauges and air conditioning didn’t work. It’s kind of sad really. He waited years for other people to build his 55. Paid the big bucks. And now that it’s done, some of the “professionals” solutions need to be redone.
I’ll build my own, thank you. I can screw it up far cheaper on my own.
Tim
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  #1657 (permalink)  
Old 02-20-2010, 11:09 PM
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Shadetree, I have a 56 (should be the same) it is a short box. 14 inches measuring from the front edge of the rear fender to the front of the box. Here is a picture. Hope it helps.

Kurt
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  #1658 (permalink)  
Old 02-20-2010, 11:27 PM
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Thanks

Thanks Rodder18. That is the measurement I was looking for.

Tim
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  #1659 (permalink)  
Old 02-20-2010, 11:35 PM
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No problem glad to help.
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  #1660 (permalink)  
Old 02-21-2010, 03:13 PM
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Need help deciding

In my earlier post I meant to thank DD for beginning this thread. Thanks DD.
I am looking for help in deciding my next step. I have installed a TCI Mustang II front end with 5 on 4.5 rotors. My existing 10 bolt 3.73 geared diff is 6 on 6. Making wheels hard to match.
Option 1: Currently I have 16.5 X 8 stock style rims on the rear. I can have Stockton Wheel build the fronts to match, 16 X 6, 4 on 4.5, for $175 each. The problem is the front and rear bolt patterns wouldn’t match, requiring two spares.
Option 2: I can get 2 Torq Thrust D 15 X 10, 5 on 4.5 rims from a friend very cheaply. New 15 X 6 for the front are easy to find. If I did that, I would have to replace the diff, and mini tub the bed. Assuming the 10’s will fit inside the fender without moving the springs inboard.
Option 3: The M2 front end looks very narrow. A set of 5 on 4.5 to 6 on 6 adapters would probably leave an original rim inside the fender.
Option 4: Just bolt any 15” steel rim on the front and decide later.
The Torq Thrust D is my favorite Mag wheel, but I really like the widened stock rim on the back. Leaving the 10 bolt in is my cheapest option. What do ya’ll think?
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  #1661 (permalink)  
Old 02-21-2010, 06:52 PM
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Welcome Shadetree
10 inch wide wheels will fit inside the rear fenders if you tubb the bed some and will clear the springs in there stock location , you could even go wider I think , its been a long time since I saw my pickup with leaf springs. I seem to recall 13 inches from the spring to the outer edge of the fender, (DD help me out here please). As for a rearend goes I would run a 9 inch Ford that way all your lug patterns would be the same.
Gene
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  #1662 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2010, 09:56 AM
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Hey , Shadetree
Would you be able to go back to TCI and exchange your front rotors with the 4 and a half inch lug pattern for a pair of rotors with the 4 and three quarter lug pattren ? Shouldn't be a problem if they are unused.
Gene
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  #1663 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2010, 11:48 AM
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I have been planning to go with wider tires on the back than the 10.5 I run now.The wheel well can be widened 7 inches without moving the spring.I run a fleet side bed so I can just cut out part of the bed,split the fender and weld in a strip of sheet metal.All I have to do is use a modern offset rim on my 87 rearend.On the step side you would have to tub the bed like dmaggard did.Check out the picture he posted in post 49 on page 4 of this thread.Post 61 on page 5 has a pic of what ShadetreeTim has in mind
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  #1664 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2010, 05:54 PM
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Thanks for the feedback. Halfton, I’ll check with TCI, swapping the hubs would expand my options. I bought the M2 off Craigslist, but I have the original buyers name and shipping label to reference. DD, those pics of dmaggard’s truck are kind of what I had in mind. I think probably not quite as wide as his are though. I knew a guy years ago who used a fleetside inner fender as the tub for the stepside. It looked like a factory install.
I guess my next step is to get the Torq Thrust’s in my possession so I can measure everything and determine what width diff to use. I have a line on an 8-3/4 Mopar diff out of a 69 B-body. It measures 59.2" wide. It would be plenty strong enough for my mild 350.
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  #1665 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2010, 09:50 PM
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Hey Man

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jasers
Hey Richard and all the other GM truckers on the HR forum!!!

I want to begin by thanking everyone on this forum for being so active and willing to help out FNGs!!! I've had this 58 for 16 years (my first vehicle!). I ran the hell out of it till I became a Marine and spent 5yrs (3 tours Iraq). I sustained injuries and returned home in 2005. Last summer I finally saved up enough $ to do what i wanted to breathe some life back to my old friend. Motor re-build, Trans Re-build, Rear end, new mounts, etc. Lots left to do tho. I'm interested in the anti-sway bar idea!!! My father and I do great fab work so keep me posted please! Look forward to chattin with ya'll soon!!!

-Jase
Hey Jase, Like your truck, looks '70's retro. Thanks for your service over there in the desert. olnolan
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