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  #1726 (permalink)  
Old 04-20-2010, 03:47 PM
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Sport41
You can pretty much go with any Chevy V8 you want, or any other V8 you mite want to install, it don't have to be a Chevrolet. As for the radiator there is alot of room ,I don't think that would be a problem. as far as price I would guess that a $1,000 would be a starting point and from there it would go up depending on how much you want to spend, the sky or your pocket book is the limit. I see your are in Salinas, is that Calif.? if so go and see Cole Foster at Salinas Boys Customs talk to him about what you wwant to do.
Gene

http://www.salinasboys.com/projects.htm

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  #1727 (permalink)  
Old 04-20-2010, 04:00 PM
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Thanks

Cool thanks..I will check them out..
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  #1728 (permalink)  
Old 04-20-2010, 10:10 PM
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Random thoughts

DD, that sounds cold. Get the other projects buttoned up so you can get back on the truck.
Addison, love the fleetsideís, letís see some pictures. I didnít know the 59ís had floor starter switches. I had one in my 50 Chevy and it was a mechanical lever that engaged the starter. Definitely different than a modern bendix actuated starter.
Sport41, the 327 vs. 350 debate has raged on since the 70s. Iíve had both and enjoyed both. My 61 Biscayne had a mild 327 and ran 14.80s in the ľ mile at Palmdale Raceway. My brother bought the car and put a 350 in it. We never got it out to the track, but the 350 ďfeltĒ like it had more torque. I canít tell you what it would cost to have someone do the work for you; Iíve always done it myself. From what I've seen, you need to know who you hire. There are a lot of flakes out there ripping people off. The fortunate thing with these trucks is that you can buy every part you need to bolt-in the motor and trans yourself with basic mechanical skills.
Iíve been working on a lot of loose ends lately on the 57. Completed bolting in the Rack & Pinion. Painted my front suspension and calipers. Picked up new rubber brake hoses. Measured up the hard lines I'll need.
I cut out some rear lower shock mounts today. Need to get a larger drill bit to drill the final size. My index is missing the bit I need. But I'm happy with the final shape. Theyíll bolt to the bottom of the rear axle perch. Iíll move the upper mounts out a couple inches from their original location to complete the install.
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  #1729 (permalink)  
Old 04-21-2010, 08:53 AM
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I just remember my grandfather having a 327 in his 65 chevy and it ran like a top...
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  #1730 (permalink)  
Old 04-21-2010, 10:02 AM
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keeping the floor starter: no can do. starters are completely different, other than teeth on the end, there are no similarities.

cost: $100 to $10,000+ depending on what you want and what your abilities are.

327 vs 350: who would know the difference? sbc=sbc. parts are available everywhere for any sbc. know what your getting. a mid 70s 350 has 130hp, no body wants a 130hp v8. my 350 has 350hp, but it also set me back $4500. unless your going to race it any 200hp v8 will haul these light trucks around, yes even a 130hp v8, but who wants a 130hp v8?

your truck came with an optional 265 v8 and is set up for a sbc with a couple of bolt ons. if you keep the original trans, it's simple. front motor mounts, v8 bell housing, exhaust and some linkage (clutch, throttle). most of this can be salvaged or buy it new.
if you want an automatic; then it gets tricky. you need to fab side mounts for the motor, cut out the bell housing xmember, fab a new trans xmember, add trans cooler and a lot more.

everything depends on your ability to salvage smartly and how good your mechanical & fabrication skills are. you can pay someone else $10,000 in labor for what i can do for $0 of course that values my time @ $0/hr

do some research before you ask a lot of questions that have been answered before. people get tired of every newbie asking the same questions.
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  #1731 (permalink)  
Old 04-21-2010, 10:43 AM
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I definately want to keep my 4 speed on the floor. What years for chevy 327 were the best in case I find a good one on craigslist? Sorry for the lame questions but I am totally new at this and just don't want to get ripped off.
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  #1732 (permalink)  
Old 04-21-2010, 10:49 AM
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Any 327 from 1962 to 1969 would be good with fuelie heads (camel hump heads) Gene
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  #1733 (permalink)  
Old 04-21-2010, 10:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Texan593
.... In another forum that I belong to, a couple of guys grafted in a '79 Camaro front end and it apparently matches up great! That will be the way I'd go when the time comes to update! Here's a couple of pics of mine:

i have a 55 chevy panel and the guy I bought it from says he had a camaro front end on it but said it was a 76- or 78 he wasn't sure . is there a good way to tell ?

also I think the rear end is stock but he flipped the leaf springs under . Is this an OK rear end for a street rod ? I like the stance it has just want to be sure I have a good base to work from
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  #1734 (permalink)  
Old 04-21-2010, 11:12 AM
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67 to 69 Camaro had the steering box behind the front wheels, second generation Camaros had the box mounted in front of the wheels, 70 to 79 I think. If the rearend in your panel has been flipped above the springs the frame will need to be C notched for clearance. The stock rearend would be ok but it updating would be better and would switch from 6 lug wheels to 5 lug wheels. I have a 67 Chevelle rearend in my 57 Chevy pickup.
Gene
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  #1735 (permalink)  
Old 04-21-2010, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 57halfton
67 to 69 Camaro had the steering box behind the front wheels, second generation Camaros had the box mounted in front of the wheels, 70 to 79 I think. If the rearend in your panel has been flipped above the springs the frame will need to be C notched for clearance. The stock rearend would be ok but it updating would be better and would switch from 6 lug wheels to 5 lug wheels. I have a 67 Chevelle rearend in my 57 Chevy pickup.
Gene
thanks for the info .. crap the rearend already is 5 lug and doesn't run an adapter plate ... I know its drum and that's it , crap ! I guess I am going under to try and hunt around for a # of some sort .. any clue what the best places to start scraping crud off to look
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  #1736 (permalink)  
Old 04-21-2010, 11:36 AM
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Does it have a cover on the back of the rearend that bolts on ? How many bolts ? Gene
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  #1737 (permalink)  
Old 04-21-2010, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 57halfton
Does it have a cover on the back of the rearend that bolts on ? How many bolts ? Gene

that I will have to wait till I get home to check it -- I just remember no adapter plate and looked at the pic I posted and realized it had 5 lug in the back

thanks for the help gene
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  #1738 (permalink)  
Old 04-21-2010, 11:42 AM
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Cool , sits nice and low. Measure the distance between the lug studs center to center on the front wheels and then the rear to find out if both are GM pattern. Gene
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  #1739 (permalink)  
Old 04-21-2010, 12:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 57halfton
... If the rearend in your panel has been flipped above the springs the frame will need to be C notched for clearance. The stock rearend would be ok but it updating would be better and would switch from 6 lug wheels to 5 lug wheels. I have a 67 Chevelle rearend in my 57 Chevy pickup.
Gene

oh it was c notched and kinda ugly too .. what I noticed is that it was notched but didn't weld on the clamshell piece I have seen in ecklers and other catalogs -- how necessary is this piece ?
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  #1740 (permalink)  
Old 04-21-2010, 12:25 PM
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It would be best if the frame is boxed for about 18 to 24 inches where the C notch is and weld in the clam shell piece. With just a chunk cut out of the frame for clearance it would weaken the frame, could crack and break.
Gene
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