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  #1756 (permalink)  
Old 04-27-2010, 08:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 57halfton
A 12 bolt car rearend is a good thing. If the width is right and the tires and wheels fit like you want then your good to go. I think you said it leaks oil ?
Drain the oil and put new seals in with a new cover gasket and call it DONE!
Does it have a couple of round things on the top of the center section that holds rubber bushings ?
Gene

tires and wheels seem to fit where they should

the oil leak is the rear cover and it seems like the tube ends .. how hard are the tube ends to replace teh seals ?

I didn't see any up there to hold bushings but ill look again .... I hope there is so there is some buffer between the floor and the rear end ...

so just out of curiosity .. the rear shocks look like coil overs , but also look potentially shot . Any idea what a good shock for this set up would be.. maybe it will help with the housing center from hitting the floor a little

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  #1757 (permalink)  
Old 04-27-2010, 05:49 PM
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I was thinking that if the rearend had those round things for bushings above the center section and cover that it would be a Chevelle rearend (mine is a 67 Chevelle 10 bolt). Might be a Camaro 12 bolt, I think an Impala (full size car) rearend would be too wide, an early Chevy II rear is too narrow.
I don't remember for sure if its a sealed axle bearing or a bearing and separate seal , I can look in a manual for you. Still not 100% sure it is a Chevrolet car 12 bolt though
Your shocks are probably over load shocks with the springs around them. New shocks might help but the rearend could still hit the floor. The rearend in my truck came close to the floor so I raised the bed wood an inch higher in the bed , might be hard to raise the floor in a panel ????? Or you could raise the back up an inch or two.
Hope any of this helps, Gene
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  #1758 (permalink)  
Old 04-27-2010, 06:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 57halfton
I was thinking that if the rearend had those round things for bushings above the center section and cover that it would be a Chevelle rearend (mine is a 67 Chevelle 10 bolt). Might be a Camaro 12 bolt, I think an Impala (full size car) rearend would be too wide, an early Chevy II rear is too narrow.
I don't remember for sure if its a sealed axle bearing or a bearing and separate seal , I can look in a manual for you. Still not 100% sure it is a Chevrolet car 12 bolt though
Your shocks are probably over load shocks with the springs around them. New shocks might help but the rearend could still hit the floor. The rearend in my truck came close to the floor so I raised the bed wood an inch higher in the bed , might be hard to raise the floor in a panel ????? Or you could raise the back up an inch or two.
Hope any of this helps, Gene
I was able to borrow a camera I'll post them tomorrow -

It is approx 53 " from backing plate to backing plate . It is leaking from around the back plate but also looks like there might be a leak where the
center housing and the tubes meet .

No bump stops that I can ID but took pics of the housing from the trans side
to try an see .

At this point what are the better ways to I'd it ?
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  #1759 (permalink)  
Old 04-27-2010, 09:10 PM
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There is numbers but i would have to look and see where and what to look for on the rearend in my pickup.
How wet is the leak where the axle tubes go into the center section ? This is not a good thing, usually caused by abuse and wheel hop. The tubes are pressed in then plug welded. Racers usually weld all the way around the tubes makes them much stronger.
Try to get that pic posted, Gene
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  #1760 (permalink)  
Old 04-28-2010, 08:03 AM
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here are the pics .. it seems from one of the pics when I stuck the camera up where I couldn't see that it may have had the rubber mounts your were talking about but it looks as if they were chopped off .

and the leak may just be coming from the cover leaking down on to the tubes... but I will wait to see your opinion . either way I think I am gonna yank it out to clean it up .

any thoughts as to what the "shock" things are if I already use teh leaf springs ?

oh and the white strip above teh diff is a hornets nest
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Last edited by 55chevypanel; 04-28-2010 at 08:12 AM.
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  #1761 (permalink)  
Old 04-28-2010, 08:55 AM
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keep the diff from hitting the bottom of the floor I am thinking about installing some of these rubber helper springs

only about $190.00 to add help to the leaf springs and teh existing shock ... and will hold a min ride height . it just might be the answer

Last edited by 55chevypanel; 04-28-2010 at 10:16 AM.
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  #1762 (permalink)  
Old 04-28-2010, 05:04 PM
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55chevypanel. the shocks look just like the Edelbrock Sensatrac shocks I run on my 58.I put those on to control body roll.I eventually ended up splitting the leaf springs( middle spring in stack pictured) and adding a heavy spring off an old set of overloads from a 50's 2 1/2 ton truck at the junk yard.If you add a leaf and a sway bar you can use regular shocks it will drop the back at least an inch maybe 2.The coil over shocks are designed to pick up an extra 500 pounds so they lift the back allot.A set af traction bars is a must to control wheel hop
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  #1763 (permalink)  
Old 04-28-2010, 06:36 PM
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Thats a Chevelle 12 bolt rearend. I would say your axle tubes are leaking and it looks like someone already put some crappy welds on the tubes. I think I would clean it up and get the tubes rewelded buy a professional welder and check for straightness. Then raise the rear of your panel an inch or two. Move the upper shock mounts out some to a point where the shocks barely clear the frame rail. They are layed down to much now to do much good. The bump stops you are looking at will probably make it ride bad when you hit bumps. Or you can raise the floor inside for clearance.
Well I think thats what I'd do anyway.
Gene
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  #1764 (permalink)  
Old 04-28-2010, 09:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 57halfton
Thats a Chevelle 12 bolt rearend. I would say your axle tubes are leaking and it looks like someone already put some crappy welds on the tubes. I think I would clean it up and get the tubes rewelded buy a professional welder and check for straightness. Then raise the rear of your panel an inch or two. Move the upper shock mounts out some to a point where the shocks barely clear the frame rail. They are layed down to much now to do much good. The bump stops you are looking at will probably make it ride bad when you hit bumps. Or you can raise the floor inside for clearance.
Well I think thats what I'd do anyway.
Gene
So is chevelle rear end good or bad for this project , hmm I wonder if it's posi . I guess before I pull off the rear end I can do a spin test and what the wheels do.

While the back is opened up I'll see about moving the shock mounts . Thig is I kinda like the stance it has right now . Well I'll cross that bridge when I get there .

I was digging around in my garage and realized when I recently I left my garage door open all day .I thought nothing had been taken and I lucked out. Yeah apparently I was not so lucky the mig I kept under my work table is gone
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  #1765 (permalink)  
Old 04-28-2010, 09:55 PM
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Tank is in

I finished up mounting the fuel tank today after work. I still need to resolve my fill/vent tube and adapt the sending unit to fit.
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  #1766 (permalink)  
Old 04-29-2010, 05:21 PM
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Yeah , that Chevelle 12 bolt is a good thing, good strong rearend , stronger if posi. The thing is now if you can save it by getting the axle tubes welded up good. Your panel looks good in the weeds like that. Look into what it would take to raise the floor an inch, I raised the floor in the bed of my pickup an inch to clear my shock mounts and rear mounted gas tank.
Sorry to hear about the loss of your mig welder, it's hard to get by without one once you've had one.
Gene
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  #1767 (permalink)  
Old 04-29-2010, 05:25 PM
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Tim , I like that gas tank, what did you say it was out of? A guy I work with is takling about moving the tank in his 57 PU to the rear and I was telling him about yours.
Gene
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  #1768 (permalink)  
Old 04-29-2010, 10:27 PM
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Thanks Gene. The tank is from a 77 Chevy G10 (Van). 22 Gallons.
Tim
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  #1769 (permalink)  
Old 04-30-2010, 11:08 AM
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55-59 Chevy truck one piece windows

Has anyone used a Brothers one piece side window kit on their truck. If so any advise, and how much fabrication is there. Any pitfalls, its the last thing before my truck goes to upholstry and I want it to go smoothly.

Thanks
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  #1770 (permalink)  
Old 05-01-2010, 10:20 AM
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craig
i have the brothers one piece windows in my truck. as for looks; they are the bomb. they do look rather good. i was looking at buying stock replacement parts for my stock windows, the one piece kit saved me a bundle of cash. the picture on the brothers site shows a dark tint window on the same yellow as my truck is. i order the tinted set and they came very lightly tinted. i plan to tint the back window dark and maybe re-tint the sides too.



as for fit; they are marginal. if you order them, get the center mount power window kit that brothers offers. i had scissors type power windows from an 06 dodge durango that i had retro-fitted to my stock windows that i re-used. the scissors does not work well as they lift the window straight up, vs the center push kit that allows some wiggle room.

if you look at the dynamics of the 1-piece windows; your trying to slide a trapazoid shape down into a rectangular door. the shape physically will not slide down into the track. to do this they cut the window width down to give wiggle room. the front track is also eliminated so the window has a bit of movement in the down position.


the window sweeps fit well but the installation is marginal. i used 3m double sided foam tape to secure them better.

all that said, yes i would recomend them as they finished off the look of my shaved truck.

i even shaved off the fender spears, the ones shown on my truck are air brushed on by shaggy, an air brush artist here in motown.


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