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  #2041 (permalink)  
Old 11-19-2010, 10:13 PM
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IIRC it's an 8" booster, made to fit under the floor/frame mount but came with the firewall pedal kit for $300 - I think I could have fit an 11" booster on the firewall, plenty of room up there

What vehicle did you get the hanging pedal from and what are you doing about an e-brake?

Post pics!

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  #2042 (permalink)  
Old 11-19-2010, 11:34 PM
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The pedal came off a 1970 c10. We went and picked up the steering column, the brake assembly (including the booster and mc). We discarded the steering column and used a different tilt wheel. The only problem we had was that the steering column was off a 84 van, so it has more electronics on the column than the typical 1974-1980 steering column swap. We had to move the brake booster over to towards the passenger side more so its a little more cramped up than then way you have it. As far as an e-brake, we have a 1970 c10 and we are going to pull the e-brake off. Im going to get ahold of the pictures off the camera soon and ill post some. We have the steering column and pedal, and booster in place, we just need to add some more supports first.
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  #2043 (permalink)  
Old 11-20-2010, 09:20 AM
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I wanted my column centered with my gauge cluster and I cheated the pedal bracket/MC to the outside to space the pedal further away and get my MC to line up in the middle of one of the recesses in the firewall - the kit wanted me to drill the firewall unevenly, rib and flat, and use a funky sheet metal shim to keep it flush - I threw that away and made a spacer from 1/8" 6061 4" bar stock and mounted mine in the middle

The bracket looks like this


My pedals look like this, need a better picture


I still need to work out a better e-brake, looking for a JY jewel that will bolt up precisely between my firewall and dash without too much modification...
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  #2044 (permalink)  
Old 11-20-2010, 09:24 AM
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That looks good. Our steering column is thinker and has more electronics on it so we couldnt move it centered like that. We are dropping the motor in today to see where the new trans and engine mounts need to be. After that i will take some pics and post them later tonight
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  #2045 (permalink)  
Old 11-20-2010, 09:37 AM
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I installed my engine cross member based on how my exhaust would clear my steering box - I used a toyota 4x4 ps box in the stock location.


After I temped the engine cross member in, I took it out, welded it and made frame reinforcing L brackets for it out of some 1/4" rectangle beam rems from IMS. The L brackets rest against the bottom of the frame and help transfer some of the weight off the sidewall of the frame as the cross member bolts through both the bracket and the frame

This allowed me to slide the welded cross member in and out by removing the L brackets, which gives me 1/2" of clearance to maneuver the cross member - this way I didn't need to weld the cross member together in the car, I did tick it in the car but welded all the way around outside so it was convenient.

I made similar reinforcing brackets for my trans cross member from the same L shaped 1/4" rect beam, it's corner radius fit nicely inside the frame

Worked out really well and added strength for the almost-400 horses the cross members had to support

Good luck today Eric
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  #2046 (permalink)  
Old 11-20-2010, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by octanejunkie
Hey guys, nice trucks, love the Task Force line!

[D
octanejunkie
nice truck, welcome to the thread, but...

i'm looking at your truck, i see original paint under the fender and a little surface rust spot where the fender bolts on.
obviously all original sheetmetal.
no patch panels
no big rusty holes
no hidden bondo from previous owner(s)
you CA guys make me sick

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  #2047 (permalink)  
Old 11-20-2010, 11:37 AM
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Truthfully ogre, not withstanding that I feel I overpaid for my truck, I did get really freaking lucky - all original sheetmetal, minimal repairs and almost no rust - this is obviously not the norm, even for sunbelt trucks; many of the ones I see out here look like they've spent years in a field in Kansas. Mine was born in Los Angeles and has lives here all it's life

When my bro-in-law checked out the truck w me before I bought it he instantly said "buy it" because he too was expecting to have to repair or replace panels, but all was good and mostly straight - so I have been spoiled and spent almost nothing on body, so far.

I am looking for a 56 big window long bed or a 61 suburban for a frame swap project, I don't expect lightning to strike twice.
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  #2048 (permalink)  
Old 11-20-2010, 11:38 AM
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Hey Ogre
Don't feel bad , my truck has plenty of rust and rot and its always been a California truck. (northren Calif.)
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  #2049 (permalink)  
Old 11-20-2010, 09:48 PM
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As promised, here are some pics. Note that this is all just test fitting for now. Once everything is test fitted, we are going to paint/powdercoat everything.

The booster is really close, so we are looking for a smaller booster to put in. Also, I did not get a pic of the steering column hooked up, but i got a pic of it to show that there are a lot more electronics on it. The only way to get this pedal to work was to shift it over towards the passenger side so that it would clear the plugs on the column. Hope you like the pics

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v4...RC/56%20truck/
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  #2050 (permalink)  
Old 11-20-2010, 10:35 PM
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I'm using a 2" non-keyed column, you have the later 2-1/2" keyed column with the large gear indicator on it. The "extra" electronics are wiper controls, no?

Personally I would not like the brake pedal as close to the gas as yours appears to be, I sometimes find both pedals at once with my setup, you should see if you can cheat the pedal and booster outboard some, just my opinion.

Good work, isn't retrofitting and fabrication fun? I hemmed and hawed over my setup for literally years, pretty happy with how it all turned out though.

Nice looking motor BTW, you got it way back there didn't you... can you still pull the distributor out?
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  #2051 (permalink)  
Old 11-20-2010, 10:53 PM
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Thats correct, the extra controls are for the wipers. It also controls cruise too. I didnt get a straight on view of the pedal, but for the truck that it was in I guess they bent it 2 inches to the right. So we are going to make it straight again. Then it will line up exactly where the old pedal was. And we removed the gas pedal after I took the pics, and we are going to add another one in, not sure what kind yet though.

Thanks, we still have another motor we need to build. Infact we just moved it to the engine stand today . Behind the distributor is about a 3/4-1" of space, so its not as close as i thought it was going to turn out.
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  #2052 (permalink)  
Old 11-21-2010, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericrcan
Thats correct, the extra controls are for the wipers. It also controls cruise too.
eric
i added cruise to my truck and had to change the factory cruise/wiper switch out.
i'm sure you could remove the lever and put a straight blinker arm in there.
it's a mater of push in hard, rotate and pull, to get the arm out.
the cruise/wiper switch and wiring is independent of the blinker switch and wiring.
any gm tech can do it for you in a couple of seconds as they have to remove the arm to disassemble the column.
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  #2053 (permalink)  
Old 11-21-2010, 09:34 PM
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We changed the brake booster out with a smaller one. We also got rid of the spacer that attached to the firewall and mounted the booster straight to the firewall. Almost time to disassemble and paint
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  #2054 (permalink)  
Old 11-22-2010, 08:26 AM
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Brake booster

What did you use for a pedal assembly?

Did you beef up the fire wall at all to support the leverage for the brake pedal?
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  #2055 (permalink)  
Old 11-22-2010, 01:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yellow55
What did you use for a pedal assembly?

Did you beef up the fire wall at all to support the leverage for the brake pedal?
The pedal assembly is a modified 1970 c10. We havent done it yet (as we were just test fitting), but we have sheet metal to weld onto the inside of the firewall.
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